the one and only e30 s52 engine swap

[stealthbimmer]

Boris3 said:

Need a set of these for the tool collection. Picture looks like the Craftsman set?

Yes. The picture I posted has a couple more sizes than my set, but my set is also like 10 years old. Has paid for itself time and time again.

[Jdesign]

AsparagusMike said:

As for the sub frame bushing epidemic. I tried the threading and bolt trick. Woohoo! no success here either. Except the fact that I was able to chip off another small little piece of it.

Get a bigger lag bolt. Use an overly aggressive impact and really slam it in there, and then bash the shit tits out of it with a BFH. Heat wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Also I am curious as to why you have a build thread here and not in the "members BMWs" section? I always forget this thread exists.

Nice Progress BTW!

[B C]

Boris3 said:

Need a set of these for the tool collection. Picture looks like the Craftsman set?

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P?sid=IDx01192011x202447059&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpYuw3PGY2AIVWLXACh2saQF7EAQYAiABEgL5UfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNvk6t3xmNgCFVOzTwod8kIJTQ

[Boris3]

Thanks!

[straight6pwr]

i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.

[KaiserRolls]

straight6pwr said:

i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.

7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox

[m42b32]

KaiserRolls said:

7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox

7/9. Mine came out fairly easily once I figured out the 5/8" lag-bolt, 1/2" steel rod, and a BFH trick. 

Sounds like the best option for getting them out if a bolt and hammer doesn't work is just keep chipping away with drills and dremel bits...good luck!

[GunMetalGrey]

stealthbimmer said:

These guys work wonders for rounded bolts. If you dont have a set, you are welcome to borrow mine. 

I have a set, and you are correct, they save lives. 

The Bentley manual (E36) is perfect for how to time the M5x/S5x motors. Just ask @KaiserRolls, it's a good reference.

[B C]

The spot where the Bentley wasn't clear enough for me is the primary exhaust sprocket position and the timing chain tensioner.

Maybe im remembering wrong and its very clear in the Bentley but my biggest question was WHEN to reinstall the chain tensioner/torque the primary exhaust sprocket bolts and also the relative position of the holes/slots

[AsparagusMike]

Jdesign said:

Also I am curious as to why you have a build thread here and not in the "members BMWs" section? I always forget this thread exists.

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

[Jdesign]

AsparagusMike said:

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

@YoungCR Would know if that's possible.

[B C]

I already moved it, JDizzle [emoji16]

[YoungCR]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

Thanks Brain

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

[AsparagusMike]

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. This occurred after threading it into the hole by hand and then having to use a ratchet to get the bolt back out because of suspicion (I should also add that I had put some lubrication on the threads before installing it). Now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do to fix the threads that are screwed up in there. I'm gonna go get myself another bolt on Tuesday and hope that some miracle happens cause I have no idea how I could fit a tap or a thread chaser down that deep of a hole to fix the threads, unless there is a tool for this particular type of thing that I just don't know about.

[jc43089]

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

This!^

I would suggest using a bolt.

[AsparagusMike]

Lame update. Just to keep the thread alive.

Moved old motor out of the shop into storage, where it will continue to leak its oil everywhere.

Focused on the engine bay today:

Pulled Front valence off.

pulled master cylinder and booster as well as the throttle cable. Does the M42 throttle cable long enough for the swap or am I still gonna need an e34 one?

Moved all the wiring over by the fuse box out of the engine bay.

Vacuumed.

\

Had a good time figuring out how to press the wheel bearings out of the trailing arms. Only got the hubs out today. Misplaced my snap ring pliers somewhere and after about an hour of searching the entire shop I called her a night.

Got a new bolt for the motor. Also in the process of getting the shit bolt and tap welded together, thank you for that idea by the way! Will have that done tomorrow. Just hoping I manage to save the threads enough for them to be effective.

[B C]

I have read that the M42 cable works fine

[GunMetalGrey]

AsparagusMike said:

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. 

So this bolt runs down and fastens to the timing cover (aluminum). These are quite common to strip and are certainly a pain to deal with. 
I don't think you will get the threads to take with a new bolt, though it's an easy thing to try. 
I've had this happen a couple times (don't go by the book spec, it's too much) and I started putting inserts in them before assembly to cover my ass. 

Pulling the timing cover off is my advice if you want to be proper. 
Loosen up the head, pull the jesus bolt, loosen the pan, and you can slide the cover out and use inserts.