the one and only e30 s52 engine swap

[Boris3]

Thanks!

[straight6pwr]

i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.

[KaiserRolls]

straight6pwr said:

i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.

7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox

[m42b32]

KaiserRolls said:

7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox

7/9. Mine came out fairly easily once I figured out the 5/8" lag-bolt, 1/2" steel rod, and a BFH trick. 

Sounds like the best option for getting them out if a bolt and hammer doesn't work is just keep chipping away with drills and dremel bits...good luck!

[GunMetalGrey]

stealthbimmer said:

These guys work wonders for rounded bolts. If you dont have a set, you are welcome to borrow mine. 

I have a set, and you are correct, they save lives. 

The Bentley manual (E36) is perfect for how to time the M5x/S5x motors. Just ask @KaiserRolls, it's a good reference.

[B C]

The spot where the Bentley wasn't clear enough for me is the primary exhaust sprocket position and the timing chain tensioner.

Maybe im remembering wrong and its very clear in the Bentley but my biggest question was WHEN to reinstall the chain tensioner/torque the primary exhaust sprocket bolts and also the relative position of the holes/slots

[AsparagusMike]

Jdesign said:

Also I am curious as to why you have a build thread here and not in the "members BMWs" section? I always forget this thread exists.

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

[Jdesign]

AsparagusMike said:

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

@YoungCR Would know if that's possible.

[B C]

I already moved it, JDizzle [emoji16]

[YoungCR]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

Thanks Brain

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

[AsparagusMike]

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. This occurred after threading it into the hole by hand and then having to use a ratchet to get the bolt back out because of suspicion (I should also add that I had put some lubrication on the threads before installing it). Now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do to fix the threads that are screwed up in there. I'm gonna go get myself another bolt on Tuesday and hope that some miracle happens cause I have no idea how I could fit a tap or a thread chaser down that deep of a hole to fix the threads, unless there is a tool for this particular type of thing that I just don't know about.

[jc43089]

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

This!^

I would suggest using a bolt.

[AsparagusMike]

Lame update. Just to keep the thread alive.

Moved old motor out of the shop into storage, where it will continue to leak its oil everywhere.

Focused on the engine bay today:

Pulled Front valence off.

pulled master cylinder and booster as well as the throttle cable. Does the M42 throttle cable long enough for the swap or am I still gonna need an e34 one?

Moved all the wiring over by the fuse box out of the engine bay.

Vacuumed.

\

Had a good time figuring out how to press the wheel bearings out of the trailing arms. Only got the hubs out today. Misplaced my snap ring pliers somewhere and after about an hour of searching the entire shop I called her a night.

Got a new bolt for the motor. Also in the process of getting the shit bolt and tap welded together, thank you for that idea by the way! Will have that done tomorrow. Just hoping I manage to save the threads enough for them to be effective.

[B C]

I have read that the M42 cable works fine

[GunMetalGrey]

AsparagusMike said:

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. 

So this bolt runs down and fastens to the timing cover (aluminum). These are quite common to strip and are certainly a pain to deal with. 
I don't think you will get the threads to take with a new bolt, though it's an easy thing to try. 
I've had this happen a couple times (don't go by the book spec, it's too much) and I started putting inserts in them before assembly to cover my ass. 

Pulling the timing cover off is my advice if you want to be proper. 
Loosen up the head, pull the jesus bolt, loosen the pan, and you can slide the cover out and use inserts.

[AsparagusMike]

Trialing arm bearings out as well as everything else that was still on them. Taking everything in to get blasted tomorrow and then reinforcement time.

Rear firewall soundproofing rubberish thingy removed as well as the heat shield underneath it revealing some glorious surprises.

Got an angle grinder with a wire wheel sitting on the bench, yets see where that gets me tomorrow.

On another note...

I completely forgot to mention it but I did end up getting the e36 m3 steering rack.

Yes the rack is in pretty rough shape right now but after a reseal kit and a little TLC I think it'll turnout alright.

Didn't mention this yet but I am planning on repainting the engine bay. Still deciding on what color to go with though.

[KaiserRolls]

I’m sure you will, but check the front subframe closely for cracks. I found a couple in my old one before I replaced it

[AsparagusMike]

GunMetalGrey said:

So this bolt runs down and fastens to the timing cover (aluminum). These are quite common to strip and are certainly a pain to deal with. 
I don't think you will get the threads to take with a new bolt, though it's an easy thing to try. 
I've had this happen a couple times (don't go by the book spec, it's too much) and I started putting inserts in them before assembly to cover my ass. 

Pulling the timing cover off is my advice if you want to be proper. 
Loosen up the head, pull the jesus bolt, loosen the pan, and you can slide the cover out and use inserts. 

Welp, the tap and die failed. I guess you were right Ben.

Although the tap and bolt welded together was a really good idea that did work by cleaning up the threads, It was at a point where they were no longer really savable.

So Saturday I pulled the timing cover on the motor.

This morning I ordered new timing cover gaskets, steering rack reseal kit, rear wheel bearings, last of the gaskets I need for the motor as well as a few other things to keep me busy.

Gonna head in to auto zone this morning and find myself a helicoil kit and then I'll be on my way.

On another note...

I haves a question.

What I want is to get rid of that charcoal canister and with it the fuel line that runs to it from the gas tank. The canister itself is pretty much shot and the fuel line running to it is rusty as can be. I honestly don't want to pay to order another line and canister when the only purpose for it is to lower emissions.

Can I just delete the system back to the tank, run a tube with the purge valve attached to it off of that piece, tuck it away and let it vent to atmosphere? Not sure how it would but will that cause a vacuum build up in the tank?

I also know of the other method people chose to do which is simply deleting the canister leaving the purge valve between the two lines running to the the throttle body. Other people also commented that this will cause a vacuum build up in the tank.

What have you guys done for this part of the car?

Thx!