E30 M52

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

this also assumes that my mechanical work, wiring, or vanos/timing aren't dickered so having a massive backfire through the intake, blowing a hole through the precious plastic m50 manifold is still a possibility when I finally get around to running it.

I assume you turned the motor over a few times on the stand to ensure that timing stayed in place, if so your timing work is on point!
I have yet to see anything go through one of the manifolds, but it would be kind of cool if you did?

Keep on truckin'!

[B C]

I turned the motor over 1/4 turn and it was jammed, heard a metallic thunk, so i turned it back to tdc and used a mini-sledge to get the cam thinger back on. It kinda rounded the corners on the cam blocks but the vanos will makeup for it lololol

Jk if its somehow not perfectly timed then i quit engines

[patsbimmer1]

Snap said:

I turned the motor over 1/4 turn and it was jammed, heard a metallic thunk, so i turned it back to tdc and used a mini-sledge to get the cam thinger back on. It kinda rounded the corners on the cam blocks but the vanos will makeup for it lololol

Jk if its somehow not perfectly timed then i quit engines

Electric motors are the future!

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

"then i quit engines"

You already tried this and we didn't allow you to, what makes you think this time would be any different. 

[B C]

Update

Today I will be receiving my Spal fan, control arms, a non Uro brand ICV hose and a couple other small bits. A silicone intake boot is on its way and Mitch has the fuel hoses under the intake that I need to get those connections finished.
What I have left to order is an new brake master cylinder (just because), and oil distribution block for my oil pressure sender, water temp gauge (to replace my vacant boost gauge spot), new front sway bar links since AFAIK they are original. I never upgraded them when I replaced the sway bars since I wanted to do it right with the correct length/adjustable links. I also plan on overhauling the brakes since these ones are on year 7 (a couple years of not driving of course  -___-)

aaaand last but not least, re-welding the shift linkage that I rotated the wrong direction, installing the driveshaft, welding in the skid plate and  finishing the exhaust system. This involves fitting a y-pipe with an o2 bung installed, adding a 2nd resonator, and finishing the connection over the subframe to the muffler. 

Thanksgiving weekend I will attempt first startup in all its open header oxygen sensorless glory. There's no reason it shouldn't just fire right up apart from the fact that the whole thing has been tampered with.

Early January still looks good for a maiden voyage so long as there is a day with dry roads not plastered with salt dust. 

PS: Don't "like" this post. there is nothing exciting about it.

[B C]

Bastards.

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

Thanksgiving weekend I will attempt first startup in all its open header oxygen sensorless glory. There's no reason it shouldn't just fire right up apart from the fact that the whole thing has been tampered with.

Such a true statement

[B C]

posting because I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and am getting excited

A Mishimoto silicone intake boot arrived last night. I dont like all these logos so I have removed most of them with some brake cleaner and a rag.

The funny thing about this intake boot. it comes in the most over the top and expensive looking full-color printed, oversized, and heavy plastic bag. THE BAG IS RESEALABLE, WHY WOULD I NEED TO RESEAL THE BAG

The "M" logos on the boot seem to be placed to cover up flaws in the mold they use which is comical but I cant blame them for trying to pull that off.

The surface and radii inside are very nice and smooth though. I am happy with it. I have the 1 connector for the ICV but will need to get a plug of some sort for the ASC port. Does anyone know if there is a factory plug or what people use for this?

I have shopped around the different reman. and new master cylinders available and compared brands.

A new Dorman master cylinder appears to be what I will end up with once I replenish my paypal account.

I think I will go with the StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads this time around (good riddance Metalmasters) 

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-278-stoptech-street-performance-brake-pads

[KaiserRolls]

The two ports are for ICV and PCV system

[GunMetalGrey]

All that money and they don't include plugs? 
Bimmerworld elbows come with plugs, that's where I have gotten mine from.

[HipMF]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plugs

If that fails, try:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#bolts

and

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-clamps

[B C]

PSA: Attention IE3, H&R race, and other lowering spring users.

Use some racing ties through the drain holes in the lower perch to keep your spring from getting off-kilter when your car is jacked up/while jumping railroad crossings.

New drivers side control arm and delrin control arm bushing installed. I noticed a bonus starter power wire in the harness that i need to remove, and pulled the paper towels out of the intake ports. I had a dream that I forgot to remove them for my first startup/drive. Not good.

I also cant forget to do the final torque the main crank bolt before I run it.

Saturday still looks like a good day to fire it up

[KaiserRolls]

I need to send those lines out. Shit!! I’ll send them tomorrow I promise! Should get them by Thursday maybe idk.

[jc43089]

Eh, paper towels would burn right up.  Just send it!

[Bassboy3313]

jc43089 said:

Eh, paper towels would burn right up.  Just send it!

I would know from experience 

[B C]

Attachments:

• First Start.mp4

[Rekpoint]

LOL

[Jdesign]

So it ran?  LOLOLOL

[B C]

PS pump installed, Spider hose installed, intake manifold test fit, ground 3 fins down for booster clearance. There is probably 2mm of clearance. It works, the engine torques away from it.

Oil added, Im using Mobil 1 0w-40 European recipe.

Cranked the engine to get the pump primed a bit.

A list of things that need to be addressed

-I dont have a lower radiator hose

-The E39 steering pump has a different size banjo fitting than the E30 so I will need to get an E39 hose

-I realized I need a plate between the M52 throttle body and M50 manifold for them to seal properly. Right now its two rubber seals up against eachother.

Tomorrow i can see myself being done messing around under the intake and finally get the intake manifold installed.I dont think I will start it until I get a coolant hose and power steering hose since running the pumps with dry seals is bad

[B C]

Warning: another long winded snap post

Something that is simultaneously great and horrible is the fact that no two 24V swaps are quite the same. Some have clearance issues with something while others do not. Someone will post on a forum the radiator hoses they used and another person will say they didnt fit well.

Adding to the unique creature that a 24V E30 is: I am using am E39 sourced engine. The E39 M52.

I chose to use the E39 M52 coolant neck because it was already aluminum instead of plastic, so no need to replace it, and I hear of occasional difficulty bleeding the cooling system and this coolant neck has a bleeder screw unlike the X50/S52 and is, for whatever reason, about 4 inches longer.

The typical E36 coolant hoses are said to work for the 24V swap, but the top hose would need to be shortened because of the longer coolant neck

“Then get a stock E36 hose and a pair of scissors, idiot”

Well BMW hoses are not constant diameter and flare up at the connections so trimming them eliminates the flare and tada! it no longer fits.

I had this issue with the M20 on the rear coolant hose from the head to the bottom heater hose pipe. The heater hose pipe is just about 11/16” while the connection on the back of the head is approximately 15/16”. After receiving a new hose that didnt have the flared end that i needed, i figured i received the wrong part. I ordered that stupid part a total of 3 different times (those little guys are NOT cheap!) and even a genuine BMW hose and a new aluminum coolant neck for the back of the head JUST IN CASE for some reason I owned some rare Antarctican Domestic Market cylinder head or something. I even had one of the guys at Pelican Parts parts baffled as well. Not a single one of them had the required flared end.

Ever since this I prefer to use Gates/Napa hoses of my own choosing. They are constant diameter, can be trimmed for a perfect fit, and inexpensive.

I used a NAPA #8484 hose for both the top hose and the bottom hose. Fits great after some trimming. The original application for this hose is for an AMC the parts guy told me.

The hose from the back of the head to the heater core is NAPA #11605 (from a Camaro) which fits with no trimming. It is about 3/4” diameter. To account for the larger diameter required, I heat the one end with a heat gun and install it with some coolant/water to help slide it on.

So I have the cooling system together, radiator in, and coolant added.

Back to the power steering pump situation. i need to replace the $$$ high pressure line with one from a 328i/528i and hope the rack side fits, machine down the mounting bracket 12mm for the M50/S50/S52 pump I have, or make an M14 to M16 banjo adapter.

I started with an M16x1.5 drain plug which fits the PS pump, drilled it so I could tap an M14x1.5 which fits the original E30 banjo bolt. It would have ended up working just great but my M14x1.5 tap isnt a bottoming tap and I was able to get about half a thread cut.

I will go to the Parker store this week or else buy some round stock that will give me more meat to work with and make another one.

The shifter is now welded correctly and installed. I am NOT thrilled with the weak detents on this transmission I have. i replaced the detent springs but i believe those are for fore/aft motion, not left/right.

Here’s to avoiding money $hifts in 2018 [emoji482]