E30 M52

B C

posting because I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and am getting excited

A Mishimoto silicone intake boot arrived last night. I dont like all these logos so I have removed most of them with some brake cleaner and a rag.

The funny thing about this intake boot. it comes in the most over the top and expensive looking full-color printed, oversized, and heavy plastic bag. THE BAG IS RESEALABLE, WHY WOULD I NEED TO RESEAL THE BAG

The "M" logos on the boot seem to be placed to cover up flaws in the mold they use which is comical but I cant blame them for trying to pull that off.

The surface and radii inside are very nice and smooth though. I am happy with it. I have the 1 connector for the ICV but will need to get a plug of some sort for the ASC port. Does anyone know if there is a factory plug or what people use for this?

I have shopped around the different reman. and new master cylinders available and compared brands.

A new Dorman master cylinder appears to be what I will end up with once I replenish my paypal account.

I think I will go with the StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads this time around (good riddance Metalmasters)

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-278-stoptech-street-performance-brake-pads

KaiserRolls

The two ports are for ICV and PCV system

GunMetalGrey

All that money and they don't include plugs?
Bimmerworld elbows come with plugs, that's where I have gotten mine from.

HipMF

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plugs

If that fails, try:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#bolts

and

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-clamps

B C

PSA: Attention IE3, H&R race, and other lowering spring users.

Use some racing ties through the drain holes in the lower perch to keep your spring from getting off-kilter when your car is jacked up/while jumping railroad crossings.

New drivers side control arm and delrin control arm bushing installed. I noticed a bonus starter power wire in the harness that i need to remove, and pulled the paper towels out of the intake ports. I had a dream that I forgot to remove them for my first startup/drive. Not good.

I also cant forget to do the final torque the main crank bolt before I run it.

Saturday still looks like a good day to fire it up

KaiserRolls

I need to send those lines out. Shit!! I’ll send them tomorrow I promise! Should get them by Thursday maybe idk.

jc43089

Eh, paper towels would burn right up. Just send it!

Bassboy3313

jc43089 said:

Eh, paper towels would burn right up. Just send it!

I would know from experience

B C

Attachments:

First Start.mp4

Rekpoint

LOL

Jdesign

So it ran? LOLOLOL

B C

PS pump installed, Spider hose installed, intake manifold test fit, ground 3 fins down for booster clearance. There is probably 2mm of clearance. It works, the engine torques away from it.

Oil added, Im using Mobil 1 0w-40 European recipe.

Cranked the engine to get the pump primed a bit.

A list of things that need to be addressed

-I dont have a lower radiator hose

-The E39 steering pump has a different size banjo fitting than the E30 so I will need to get an E39 hose

-I realized I need a plate between the M52 throttle body and M50 manifold for them to seal properly. Right now its two rubber seals up against eachother.

Tomorrow i can see myself being done messing around under the intake and finally get the intake manifold installed.I dont think I will start it until I get a coolant hose and power steering hose since running the pumps with dry seals is bad

B C

Warning: another long winded snap post

Something that is simultaneously great and horrible is the fact that no two 24V swaps are quite the same. Some have clearance issues with something while others do not. Someone will post on a forum the radiator hoses they used and another person will say they didnt fit well.

Adding to the unique creature that a 24V E30 is: I am using am E39 sourced engine. The E39 M52.

I chose to use the E39 M52 coolant neck because it was already aluminum instead of plastic, so no need to replace it, and I hear of occasional difficulty bleeding the cooling system and this coolant neck has a bleeder screw unlike the X50/S52 and is, for whatever reason, about 4 inches longer.

The typical E36 coolant hoses are said to work for the 24V swap, but the top hose would need to be shortened because of the longer coolant neck

“Then get a stock E36 hose and a pair of scissors, idiot”

Well BMW hoses are not constant diameter and flare up at the connections so trimming them eliminates the flare and tada! it no longer fits.

I had this issue with the M20 on the rear coolant hose from the head to the bottom heater hose pipe. The heater hose pipe is just about 11/16” while the connection on the back of the head is approximately 15/16”. After receiving a new hose that didnt have the flared end that i needed, i figured i received the wrong part. I ordered that stupid part a total of 3 different times (those little guys are NOT cheap!) and even a genuine BMW hose and a new aluminum coolant neck for the back of the head JUST IN CASE for some reason I owned some rare Antarctican Domestic Market cylinder head or something. I even had one of the guys at Pelican Parts parts baffled as well. Not a single one of them had the required flared end.

Ever since this I prefer to use Gates/Napa hoses of my own choosing. They are constant diameter, can be trimmed for a perfect fit, and inexpensive.

I used a NAPA #8484 hose for both the top hose and the bottom hose. Fits great after some trimming. The original application for this hose is for an AMC the parts guy told me.

The hose from the back of the head to the heater core is NAPA #11605 (from a Camaro) which fits with no trimming. It is about 3/4” diameter. To account for the larger diameter required, I heat the one end with a heat gun and install it with some coolant/water to help slide it on.

So I have the cooling system together, radiator in, and coolant added.

Back to the power steering pump situation. i need to replace the $$$ high pressure line with one from a 328i/528i and hope the rack side fits, machine down the mounting bracket 12mm for the M50/S50/S52 pump I have, or make an M14 to M16 banjo adapter.

I started with an M16x1.5 drain plug which fits the PS pump, drilled it so I could tap an M14x1.5 which fits the original E30 banjo bolt. It would have ended up working just great but my M14x1.5 tap isnt a bottoming tap and I was able to get about half a thread cut.

I will go to the Parker store this week or else buy some round stock that will give me more meat to work with and make another one.

The shifter is now welded correctly and installed. I am NOT thrilled with the weak detents on this transmission I have. i replaced the detent springs but i believe those are for fore/aft motion, not left/right.

Here’s to avoiding money $hifts in 2018 [emoji482]

HipMF

Snap said:

-I realized I need a plate between the M52 throttle body and M50 manifold for them to seal properly. Right now its two rubber seals up against eachother.

You probably already have a solution, but If you draw something up in CAD, I can cut an adapter out of phenolic on the CNC router. I wouldn't be able to do it until next weekend though.

B C

HipMF said:

Snap said:

-I realized I need a plate between the M52 throttle body and M50 manifold for them to seal properly. Right now its two rubber seals up against eachother.

You probably already have a solution, but If you draw something up in CAD, I can cut an adapter out of phenolic on the CNC router. I wouldn't be able to do it until next weekend though.

Awesome, I will take you up on that! I will PM you

GunMetalGrey

Sourcing an E36 PS pump seems like it would be less complicated compared to making panjo bolts.

I don't recall if you can just throw the pulley from an E36 on the E30 PS pump and bolt it into the e36/9 bracket or not.

Which manifold and throttle body are you using?
Edit: I'm a fool.
Reasoning for sticking with the OBD2 throttle body?

m42b32

Snap said:

I think I will go with the StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads this time around (good riddance Metalmasters)

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-278-stoptech-street-performance-brake-pads

I just saw this, I have the Stoptech Sport on my e30 (slightly more aggressive but more dust, they didn't have any of the street pads available for my brakes) and they're fantastic. The braking is WAY better than my E36 with Bosch quietcast pads.

In case you haven't ordered them yet, Rockauto has them for half the price of Turner!!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,1991,318is,1.8l+l4,1011373,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

B C

Thanks for the heads up and feedback on those pads, I didnt think the turner price was too bad to begin with either

B C

GunMetalGrey said:

Sourcing an E36 PS pump seems like it would be less complicated compared to making panjo bolts.
I have an E36 pump too. It doesnt fit. ~12mm needs to be removed from the mounting bracket to make it fit, even with a stepped pulley

I don't recall if you can just throw the pulley from an E36 on the E30 PS pump and bolt it into the e36/9 bracket or not.
That is definitely something to look at. I know I compared the E30 to the E36 and it wouldnt work, but didnt consider that combo you posted. I have an M16 to M14 adapter arriving in the mail today which will allow me to use the E39 pump with the E30/E36 lines.

Which manifold and throttle body are you using?
Edit: I'm a fool.
Reasoning for sticking with the OBD2 throttle body?

Mostly just because I ended up with 2 of them and didn't realize there was a difference in the sealing arrangement when I ordered all my seals so. The M50 manifold I bought ( $75 shipped, very good deal) didnt come with a throttle body. it doesnt make a big enough difference to me between adding a plate between the OBD2 throttle and buying an M50 throttle. I am mostly just using what I have bought

GunMetalGrey

Did you stick with the e39 oil filter housing? Sounds like you have things sorted out, but just curious as to why the e36 stuff didn't work, and that's the only thing I can think of.

The end is closer by the day!

WIBIMMERS

E30 M52