E30 M52
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Dang that’s fresh!!!
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ICV hum present??
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OHHH YEAHHHHH. Leaps and bounds you are making in very little time. Keep cranking away!
I see what you did there. And I like it!
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So don't get your hopes up for any rage drift footage anytime soon. Based on my to-do list I should be able to fire the car up around thanksgiving and maybe drive it in January.
I am replacing the control arms, master cylinder, and hopefully the brake calipers, pads and rotors "while I'm in there" (these ones have about 20,000 hard miles) BUT my female counterpart is watching purchases like a hawk so I really need to liquidate some of my remaining parts stash items to justify buying some last odds and ends.
wish me luck n stuff..
this also assumes that my mechanical work, wiring, or vanos/timing aren't dickered so having a massive backfire through the intake, blowing a hole through the precious plastic m50 manifold is still a possibility when I finally get around to running it.
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this also assumes that my mechanical work, wiring, or vanos/timing aren't dickered so having a massive backfire through the intake, blowing a hole through the precious plastic m50 manifold is still a possibility when I finally get around to running it.
I assume you turned the motor over a few times on the stand to ensure that timing stayed in place, if so your timing work is on point!
I have yet to see anything go through one of the manifolds, but it would be kind of cool if you did?Keep on truckin'!
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I turned the motor over 1/4 turn and it was jammed, heard a metallic thunk, so i turned it back to tdc and used a mini-sledge to get the cam thinger back on. It kinda rounded the corners on the cam blocks but the vanos will makeup for it lololol
Jk if its somehow not perfectly timed then i quit engines
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I turned the motor over 1/4 turn and it was jammed, heard a metallic thunk, so i turned it back to tdc and used a mini-sledge to get the cam thinger back on. It kinda rounded the corners on the cam blocks but the vanos will makeup for it lololol
Jk if its somehow not perfectly timed then i quit engines
Electric motors are the future!
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"then i quit engines"
You already tried this and we didn't allow you to, what makes you think this time would be any different.

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Update
Today I will be receiving my Spal fan, control arms, a non Uro brand ICV hose and a couple other small bits. A silicone intake boot is on its way and Mitch has the fuel hoses under the intake that I need to get those connections finished.
What I have left to order is an new brake master cylinder (just because), and oil distribution block for my oil pressure sender, water temp gauge (to replace my vacant boost gauge spot), new front sway bar links since AFAIK they are original. I never upgraded them when I replaced the sway bars since I wanted to do it right with the correct length/adjustable links. I also plan on overhauling the brakes since these ones are on year 7 (a couple years of not driving of course -___-)aaaand last but not least, re-welding the shift linkage that I rotated the wrong direction, installing the driveshaft, welding in the skid plate and finishing the exhaust system. This involves fitting a y-pipe with an o2 bung installed, adding a 2nd resonator, and finishing the connection over the subframe to the muffler.
Thanksgiving weekend I will attempt first startup in all its open header oxygen sensorless glory. There's no reason it shouldn't just fire right up apart from the fact that the whole thing has been tampered with.
Early January still looks good for a maiden voyage so long as there is a day with dry roads not plastered with salt dust.
PS: Don't "like" this post. there is nothing exciting about it.
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Thanksgiving weekend I will attempt first startup in all its open header oxygen sensorless glory. There's no reason it shouldn't just fire right up apart from the fact that the whole thing has been tampered with.
Such a true statement
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posting because I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and am getting excited
A Mishimoto silicone intake boot arrived last night. I dont like all these logos so I have removed most of them with some brake cleaner and a rag.

The funny thing about this intake boot. it comes in the most over the top and expensive looking full-color printed, oversized, and heavy plastic bag. THE BAG IS RESEALABLE, WHY WOULD I NEED TO RESEAL THE BAG
The "M" logos on the boot seem to be placed to cover up flaws in the mold they use which is comical but I cant blame them for trying to pull that off.

The surface and radii inside are very nice and smooth though. I am happy with it. I have the 1 connector for the ICV but will need to get a plug of some sort for the ASC port. Does anyone know if there is a factory plug or what people use for this?
I have shopped around the different reman. and new master cylinders available and compared brands.
A new Dorman master cylinder appears to be what I will end up with once I replenish my paypal account.
I think I will go with the StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads this time around (good riddance Metalmasters)
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-278-stoptech-street-performance-brake-pads
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The two ports are for ICV and PCV system
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All that money and they don't include plugs?
Bimmerworld elbows come with plugs, that's where I have gotten mine from. -
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PSA: Attention IE3, H&R race, and other lowering spring users.
Use some racing ties through the drain holes in the lower perch to keep your spring from getting off-kilter when your car is jacked up/while jumping railroad crossings.

New drivers side control arm and delrin control arm bushing installed. I noticed a bonus starter power wire in the harness that i need to remove, and pulled the paper towels out of the intake ports. I had a dream that I forgot to remove them for my first startup/drive. Not good.
I also cant forget to do the final torque the main crank bolt before I run it.
Saturday still looks like a good day to fire it up
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