E30 M52

[Boris3]

The company FCPEuro used to focus on Uro heavy parts offerings and while their selection was low cost they paid a price in customer dissatisfaction and poor reputation.

A few years ago they turned things around by improving their customer service and especially by offering better quality parts (BMW and the reputable OEM) at good prices and with lifetime replacement on everything they sell even wear items (including rotors, pads, filters, etc). This is returns / replacement with no questions asked even if the parts are used for racing.

[GunMetalGrey]

^I have used FCP for quite some time now when it comes to suspension bits. Their prices are good and they back their parts, well, forever. I put that to use once and it was painless. 

Also, don't buy URO parts. They are bad

[B C]

Everytime I see FCP Euro I think of FCP Groton which has the absolute cheapest suspension parts for E30s (assumed garbage). I believe its the same company, just renamed so I stayed away but your explanation makes sense

[KaiserRolls]

You should get the plate “NO URO” just to remind yourself never to buy URO parts

[B C]

I ground down the bosses on the oil pan and installed the flywheel but its still about 1.1 ballhairs from death.

I can grind the bosses down more than they are now (stopped because I need a new bit) and will change out the two hex head screws for socket head screws since I foresee the socket not fitting nicely in the event i ever have to change the oil pan.

I read about many people being able to make it work without resorting to having the flywheel machined.

Bosses

[HipMF]

just send it.

[B C]

Sending it will only cause it to work itself out. Nothing to lose really.

[B C]

I now have 1/8” of clearance on the pan and 1/16” on the bolt head.

In the event that I ever need to i need to drop the oil pan: I slotted the hardware on the 2 rear bolts so I have an alternate method of removal if getting a socket on them just doesnt work out (due to an extension or socket touching the flywheel)

Pressure plate/clutch and oil pan are installed.

Next is the trans

[GunMetalGrey]

Just about time to put it in!

[B C]

i'm taking time off work after Halloween to make sure it happens.

if nothing else I need to get the garage space opened up to let the wife part the van in the garage for winter

[i_love_cars]

Snap said:

i'm taking time off work after Halloween to make sure it happens.

if nothing else I need to get the garage space opened up to let the wife part the van in the garage for winter

I agree, part the van and get something else. Nobody needs to own something like that.

[B C]

Who needs some rear cupholders?!?

[B C]

Headers sandblasted

I am trying out the Eastwood Internal exhaust coating because the ceramic coating I used to use is priced like liquid gold I no longer have any spray guns or a compressor, and I like to experiment.

A new E30 gauge temp sensor arrived. The E30 sensor is M14x1.5 and the 24V head is M12x1.5

So I chucked it up in my cordless lathe and turned it down, then rethreaded it. Works like a charm!

An aluminum water pump pulley and power steering pulley arrived (replaces the stock plastic garbage) the water pump pulley is a smaller diameter and runs the water pump an extra 8% faster. 8% doesnt sound like much but whatever, I bought the pulley because I needed an aluminum one and I mention the 8% overdrive in case any 24v folks are desperate for every last cooling upgrade they can get.

I wish they sold the Sachs spline lube individual packets that come with OE clutch kits. I could only find a tube of it. That means I can install the trans onto the engine tomorrow! If anyone needs some spline grease I have plenty to spare.

[KaiserRolls]

What PN is that sensor?

[B C]

12621710511

Since the X52 head has only 1 coolant sensor provision, I removed the throttle body coolant nipple from the head and installed the sensor there. The blue coolant sensor location could very well be an M14 thread like the stock E30 brown sensor, I never checked, but the coolant nipple location is M12x1.5

[B C]

Trans. mated to engine, harness install in progress. Headers coated+painted.

[Jdesign]

Tis so close to being placed inside of car. 

[jc43089]

The sensor port is m14x1.5 on an OBD1 head for anyone wondering.  I am 99% sure that there are two m14 ports and one m12 port on the early heads.

[B C]

The throttle body coolant connection being the M12x1.5 that I used

[B C]

There comes a time in every man’s build when he has to break out the zip ties.....

Kaiser and JC have been very helpful in sending pictures and info about wiring harness routing. There is at least one bracket im missing that helps with retaining the clump of wires and I cannot find it on RealOEM. Thats okay. Its not the end of the world. The wiring covers I installed jumbled up the natural lay of the wires so it isnt how it would have come from the factory but I feel I have routed wires as safely as possible to minimize rubbing, pinching, or possible electrical interference on the shielded wires.

Enter: zipties

For comparison purposes I am posting the mess under the manifold before and after. Im not really trying to show it off but i cant see both images side by side on my phone so here they are for comparison.

So here it is

OBD2

OBD1