E30 M52

[jc43089]

I have the worst memory known to man.  I didn't take a pic of the power block, text me tonight and I can take a picture of my other e36 engine that is sitting in the garage on a furniture dolly, it will be easy to see where the harness goes.  I pulled it with the harness attached.  So it is laying in the tray like it is supposed to be.  Mine won't have the oil level switch but otherwise should be just like yours.

[B C]

Awesome that would be great!

[GunMetalGrey]

The only ground wire that ends in an eyelet is the one that is part of the diagnostics connector. The other wire is red under the sheathing, and as thus goes to the positive terminal, along with the cable from the starter. This is per my memory so I would verify.

E36 or E34 Harness? I need to stop at the shop tonight and can verify a couple connections if need be. If you have connectors in question just check continuity from pins on the ecu to find what they are, easiest way in my opinion.

[jc43089]

Also the ground eyelet that goes to the m8 bolt on the front engine lift point.  It is a short wire that comes out of the end of the injector wiring box thing.

[B C]

I’ve had a few valve cover gaskets and head gaskets delivered to my house in the past few years. My wife is catching on:

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

I’ve had a few valve cover gaskets and head gaskets delivered to my house in the past few years. My wife is catching on:

DED. HAHAHHAHAA.

Also I like the new title of your thread.

[B C]

Many thanks to JC and Kaiser for the pics they sent last night!  The alternator and starter wires were identified as well as the ABS unit power wire which is needed for a 24V swap. There is still a mystery 2 pin connector in the same loom as the O2 sensor connector which could possibly be for the reverse light switch? but it seems strange for that to be caught up in the engine harness instead of one of the chassis harnesses.

I stand a much better chance of getting the engine fired up without having to troubleshoot things now. I will take one last look at the remaining connections and see what I can make of them, install the harness on the engine and move on to the clutch and trans tomorrow.

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

Many thanks to JC and Kaiser for the pics they sent last night!  The alternator and starter wires were identified as well as the ABS unit power wire which is needed for a 24V swap. There is still a mystery 2 pin connector in the same loom as the O2 sensor connector which could possibly be for the reverse light switch? but it seems strange for that to be caught up in the engine harness instead of one of the chassis harnesses.

What year is your chassis?

[B C]

1991

[KaiserRolls]

Even though we already spoke. This ones for the lurkers

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

1991

That explains why I've never dealt with the ABS wiring!

[B C]

After about 6 hours of working on it, its complete. Everything accounted for and labelled, degreased, rewrapped in new sleeving, a few new wires run, a few wires terminated, all ring terminals replaced, and all pins cleaned up.

[Earl]

Want to do mine? 

[KaiserRolls]

Looks good dude!

The small 1/8th wrap is quite annoying to split haha

[B C]

Rear main seal installed. BMW brand with no garter spring. Black rtv on the gasket, 7 ft lb on the 6mm hardware, 16 ft lb on the 8mm hardware.

All of the appropriate brackets are installed (Roses are black violets are black, everything is black)Its a bit of a puzzle doing the OBD1 swap and not being familiar with 24V engines. I had some things bolted up on the wrong holes until i realized things werent lining up. There are 1 or 2 6mm holes on the elec. harness bracket that need to be opened up to 8mm

the front knock sensor needs to be angled slightly to clear the bracket and the rear portion of the bracket needs to be bent slightly to clear the original M52 lifting bracket

I will wait until the trans is on to put the wiring harness in place since i dont want it to be flopping around in the way while trying to stab the trans.

[jc43089]

Looking good!

[KaiserRolls]

Looks quite good.

Don’t buy crappy ICV hoses. They crack and the blow up and you hunt for idle all over the place and then your gf is convinced she broke your car.

I bought slicone ones from maximum psi. Overpriced for what they are, but knowing they’ll never need to be replaced sure is nice

[B C]

Post irrelevant: I dont have a gf

The ICV hose i bought is “URO” brand which is probably junk, but i will keep an eye on it once im running

[jc43089]

URO is usually junk, but also cheap.  Expect one summer before crackage.

[Boris3]

jc43089 said:

URO is usually junk, but also cheap.  Expect one summer before crackage.

One summer may be optimistic.