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  4. M52 or S52 in an E30

M52 or S52 in an E30

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General Technical
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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #35

    Yep, M52 or bust. They are newer than an M50, more powerful than an M50, and basically the same price. $1000 for 40 whp is easy to deal with when you are already doing an OBD1 build and have to buy the tune and manifold anyways.

    The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

    Just need to pick up the M52 now

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGrey
      wrote on last edited by
      #36

      Snap said:

      The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

      Wow, the prices on those sure went up!

      ...

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #37

        I think the cheapest I have ever found them was $250 but yes, the ///MPower tax is becoming an epidemic. Now i just have to keep from breaking them [emoji58]

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #38

          It's a 2 person job to remove/install them.  One to hold the cam with a wrench so it doesn't turn and another to tighten the cap where the pressure is.  Then you can put all of the other caps on before releasing it from turning, assuming you don't have the fancy cam tool.  I have done it with no special tools one time and would try it again but be careful.  Or maybe I am way more careful than I need to be.

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #39

            I have A fancy cam tool

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #40

              Snap said:

              I have A fancy cam tool

              The blocks for locking the squares?  Or the cam installation tool?

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • B
                B
                B C
                wrote on last edited by
                #41

                Oh jeez, there are more tools required ?!?🤦🏻‍♂️

                Doing some reading

                http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm

                And now I understand your 2-person method. Thanks for mentioning that. Now I am trying to understand how the procedure described in the pelican article would even work with the head installed since they are moving the cams in a different position than TDC... (reading continues)

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #42

                  I almost bought a set of s52 cams for $150...guess I should have done it. 

                  While reading up on proper removal/instal l I see a guy over on R3V that broke one and ended up getting a single intake cam for $350 as it was the best deal they could find.

                  [emoji1304]

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #43

                    Just don't have the bottom end at TDC and you can spin the cams all you want. There is only a small window where they would collide. You don't need tools for any of it. Just a straightedge to set the cams square with each other, easy peasy. When it's time to do it's can walk you through it.

                    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • B
                      B
                      B C
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #44

                      So time the cams with the cams at TDC and the timing chains removed and the engine 45 deg off TDC. Then rotate engine back to TDC and attach chains. This is my interpretation

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • D
                        D
                        Daggerty
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #45

                        There is a guy on YouTube that has a video with all the information you need, step by step walk through cams won't break unless you are a complete idiot. I did the install by myself.

                        i think it's called like m5x headgasket something or another.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • D
                          D
                          Daggerty
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #46

                          Also if you take a Chanel lock apart and use the piece with the top jaw, you can use that to turn the exhaust cam sprocket like the vanos removal tool. Or how I did it my first time with no special tools just using a box wrench to loosen the intake cam sprocket nuts to turn it.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • jc43089J
                            jc43089J
                            jc43089
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #47

                            Snap said:

                            So time the cams with the cams at TDC and the timing chains removed and the engine 45 deg off TDC. Then rotate engine back to TDC and attach chains. This is my interpretation

                            Exactly.

                            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                            1 Reply Last reply
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