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  4. M52 or S52 in an E30

M52 or S52 in an E30

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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #27

    I was honestly expecting more M52 votes. Extremely valid point about doing it right ONCE, which actually goes both ways. I could do an M52 swap right by refreshing everything and be able to get it together and driving this summer. To do the same for an S52 I may have to save my pennies and shoot for completion next year.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • straight6pwrS
      straight6pwrS
      straight6pwr
      wrote on last edited by
      #28

      Snap said:

      I was honestly expecting more M52 votes. Extremely valid point about doing it right ONCE, which actually goes both ways. I could do an M52 swap right by refreshing everything and be able to get it together and driving this summer. To do the same for an S52 I may have to save my pennies and shoot for completion next year.

      buy the motor, stuff it in, than worry about fixing stuff/refreshing later. the point is to drive these cars, right? or am i doing it wrong?

      you won't have done any extra work this way. youll just have the pull the motor one time in the future for your refresh.

      Dan
      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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      1
      • Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313
        wrote on last edited by
        #29

        The time aspect is what you have to think about if you are just gonna throw an engine in and worry about it later. You may not have the time to work on it later, but have the time to do it correctly right now and get it over with. That's just my thought.

        CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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        1
        • suspencefulS
          suspencefulS
          suspenceful
          wrote on last edited by
          #30

          straight6pwr said:

          the point is to drive these cars, right? or am i doing it wrong?

          Clearly you don't understand the WIBimmers crowd. Most members actually prefer a non-running BMW that is constantly being worked on.

          🎬 YouTube channel (60K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135
          📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
          🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com

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          4
          • retoropakR
            retoropakR
            retoropak
            wrote on last edited by
            #31

            Stroke m52 to 3.0 with the m54 rotating assembly. That way you can refresh the m52 with new bearings and gaskets and still be cheaper than s52.

            It just happened that i have m52 i that don't need[emoji39]

            Or m50nv stroked to 3.0 with m54 bits and run crazy cam and itbs. Oh i just realized that i have n50nv too that i might get rid off [emoji848][emoji6]

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #32

              Stock E36 328i (M52) baseline vs. same car with M50 manifold, S52 cams, tune, air filter, intake elbow, asc delete, stock exhaust

              23b565cf23b0f00ccb3298b9643b30a8.png

              Add headers and exhaust for additional gains.

              The hp/$ quotient is strong

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #33

                Oh man...you have me thinking bad thoughts now

                That's over a grand for 40hp though=(

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #34

                  It is convenient that the heads are no different between m5x and s5x.  So by swapping cams you have the full thing rather than still being limited by smaller ports or other differences.

                  Just an FYI early (OBD1) heads have different cam trays and lifters that don't fit the late cams that have the extra balancing material between the lobes.  The profiles are the same between OBD1 and OBD2 but the OBD2 cams are thicker.  Just a heads up, it looks like you aren't considering an M50 anyway but just in case.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #35

                    Yep, M52 or bust. They are newer than an M50, more powerful than an M50, and basically the same price. $1000 for 40 whp is easy to deal with when you are already doing an OBD1 build and have to buy the tune and manifold anyways.

                    The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

                    Just need to pick up the M52 now

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGrey
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #36

                      Snap said:

                      The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

                      Wow, the prices on those sure went up!

                      ...

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        B C
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #37

                        I think the cheapest I have ever found them was $250 but yes, the ///MPower tax is becoming an epidemic. Now i just have to keep from breaking them [emoji58]

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #38

                          It's a 2 person job to remove/install them.  One to hold the cam with a wrench so it doesn't turn and another to tighten the cap where the pressure is.  Then you can put all of the other caps on before releasing it from turning, assuming you don't have the fancy cam tool.  I have done it with no special tools one time and would try it again but be careful.  Or maybe I am way more careful than I need to be.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #39

                            I have A fancy cam tool

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #40

                              Snap said:

                              I have A fancy cam tool

                              The blocks for locking the squares?  Or the cam installation tool?

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #41

                                Oh jeez, there are more tools required ?!?🤦🏻‍♂️

                                Doing some reading

                                http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm

                                And now I understand your 2-person method. Thanks for mentioning that. Now I am trying to understand how the procedure described in the pelican article would even work with the head installed since they are moving the cams in a different position than TDC... (reading continues)

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • EarlE
                                  EarlE
                                  Earl
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #42

                                  I almost bought a set of s52 cams for $150...guess I should have done it. 

                                  While reading up on proper removal/instal l I see a guy over on R3V that broke one and ended up getting a single intake cam for $350 as it was the best deal they could find.

                                  [emoji1304]

                                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • jc43089J
                                    jc43089J
                                    jc43089
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #43

                                    Just don't have the bottom end at TDC and you can spin the cams all you want. There is only a small window where they would collide. You don't need tools for any of it. Just a straightedge to set the cams square with each other, easy peasy. When it's time to do it's can walk you through it.

                                    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

                                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • B
                                      B
                                      B C
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #44

                                      So time the cams with the cams at TDC and the timing chains removed and the engine 45 deg off TDC. Then rotate engine back to TDC and attach chains. This is my interpretation

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • D
                                        D
                                        Daggerty
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #45

                                        There is a guy on YouTube that has a video with all the information you need, step by step walk through cams won't break unless you are a complete idiot. I did the install by myself.

                                        i think it's called like m5x headgasket something or another.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • D
                                          D
                                          Daggerty
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #46

                                          Also if you take a Chanel lock apart and use the piece with the top jaw, you can use that to turn the exhaust cam sprocket like the vanos removal tool. Or how I did it my first time with no special tools just using a box wrench to loosen the intake cam sprocket nuts to turn it.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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