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  4. M52 or S52 in an E30

M52 or S52 in an E30

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  • EarlE
    EarlE
    Earl
    wrote on last edited by
    #23

    Bassboy3313 said:

    "M3 engine" in the title and yet STILL no engine bay pics. People confuse the shit out of me

    a picture of an ///M Power beauty cover still doesn't mean it is 100% s5x 😄

    museum sig 2earl.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313
      wrote on last edited by
      #24

      True. Doesn't change the fact every sale ad should include an engine pic. Especially if you mention it in the title.

      Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #25

        Also true=)

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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        0
        • m42b32M
          m42b32M
          m42b32
          wrote on last edited by
          #26

          I have never driven a swapped car so I can't comment on that part of it, but I think there is value in "doing it once" and getting the S52 right off the bat as they are only going to get more expensive. No matter what you do with the M52 it will always be a little bit short of the S52 (unless you do an M54 rotating assembly), so if your goal is maximizing performance from an NA 24v, might as well get the S52 now versus wanting one later. If you can find a wrecked M3 for a reasonable price and have the time/space to take it apart, you can keep the S52/zf combo, part out the rest and end up with a decent deal on a motor/trans.

          1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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          0
          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #27

            I was honestly expecting more M52 votes. Extremely valid point about doing it right ONCE, which actually goes both ways. I could do an M52 swap right by refreshing everything and be able to get it together and driving this summer. To do the same for an S52 I may have to save my pennies and shoot for completion next year.

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            • straight6pwrS
              straight6pwrS
              straight6pwr
              wrote on last edited by
              #28

              Snap said:

              I was honestly expecting more M52 votes. Extremely valid point about doing it right ONCE, which actually goes both ways. I could do an M52 swap right by refreshing everything and be able to get it together and driving this summer. To do the same for an S52 I may have to save my pennies and shoot for completion next year.

              buy the motor, stuff it in, than worry about fixing stuff/refreshing later. the point is to drive these cars, right? or am i doing it wrong?

              you won't have done any extra work this way. youll just have the pull the motor one time in the future for your refresh.

              Dan
              yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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              • Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313
                wrote on last edited by
                #29

                The time aspect is what you have to think about if you are just gonna throw an engine in and worry about it later. You may not have the time to work on it later, but have the time to do it correctly right now and get it over with. That's just my thought.

                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                • suspencefulS
                  suspencefulS
                  suspenceful
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #30

                  straight6pwr said:

                  the point is to drive these cars, right? or am i doing it wrong?

                  Clearly you don't understand the WIBimmers crowd. Most members actually prefer a non-running BMW that is constantly being worked on.

                  🎬 YouTube channel (60K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135
                  đŸ“· Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
                  🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com

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                  4
                  • retoropakR
                    retoropakR
                    retoropak
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #31

                    Stroke m52 to 3.0 with the m54 rotating assembly. That way you can refresh the m52 with new bearings and gaskets and still be cheaper than s52.

                    It just happened that i have m52 i that don't need[emoji39]

                    Or m50nv stroked to 3.0 with m54 bits and run crazy cam and itbs. Oh i just realized that i have n50nv too that i might get rid off [emoji848][emoji6]

                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    0
                    • B
                      B
                      B C
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #32

                      Stock E36 328i (M52) baseline vs. same car with M50 manifold, S52 cams, tune, air filter, intake elbow, asc delete, stock exhaust

                      23b565cf23b0f00ccb3298b9643b30a8.png

                      Add headers and exhaust for additional gains.

                      The hp/$ quotient is strong

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                      0
                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #33

                        Oh man...you have me thinking bad thoughts now

                        That's over a grand for 40hp though=(

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #34

                          It is convenient that the heads are no different between m5x and s5x.  So by swapping cams you have the full thing rather than still being limited by smaller ports or other differences.

                          Just an FYI early (OBD1) heads have different cam trays and lifters that don't fit the late cams that have the extra balancing material between the lobes.  The profiles are the same between OBD1 and OBD2 but the OBD2 cams are thicker.  Just a heads up, it looks like you aren't considering an M50 anyway but just in case.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #35

                            Yep, M52 or bust. They are newer than an M50, more powerful than an M50, and basically the same price. $1000 for 40 whp is easy to deal with when you are already doing an OBD1 build and have to buy the tune and manifold anyways.

                            The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

                            Just need to pick up the M52 now

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                            0
                            • GunMetalGreyG
                              GunMetalGreyG
                              GunMetalGrey
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #36

                              Snap said:

                              The Supersprint replica headers I bought were $87 shipped, new. Tune was $200, manifold was $75, cams were $400

                              Wow, the prices on those sure went up!

                              ...

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                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #37

                                I think the cheapest I have ever found them was $250 but yes, the ///MPower tax is becoming an epidemic. Now i just have to keep from breaking them [emoji58]

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                                • jc43089J
                                  jc43089J
                                  jc43089
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #38

                                  It's a 2 person job to remove/install them.  One to hold the cam with a wrench so it doesn't turn and another to tighten the cap where the pressure is.  Then you can put all of the other caps on before releasing it from turning, assuming you don't have the fancy cam tool.  I have done it with no special tools one time and would try it again but be careful.  Or maybe I am way more careful than I need to be.

                                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • B
                                    B
                                    B C
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #39

                                    I have A fancy cam tool

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #40

                                      Snap said:

                                      I have A fancy cam tool

                                      The blocks for locking the squares?  Or the cam installation tool?

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #41

                                        Oh jeez, there are more tools required ?!?đŸ€ŠđŸ»â€â™‚ïž

                                        Doing some reading

                                        http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm

                                        And now I understand your 2-person method. Thanks for mentioning that. Now I am trying to understand how the procedure described in the pelican article would even work with the head installed since they are moving the cams in a different position than TDC... (reading continues)

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                                        0
                                        • EarlE
                                          EarlE
                                          Earl
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #42

                                          I almost bought a set of s52 cams for $150...guess I should have done it. 

                                          While reading up on proper removal/instal l I see a guy over on R3V that broke one and ended up getting a single intake cam for $350 as it was the best deal they could find.

                                          [emoji1304]

                                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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