Alpine White Zender Kit E24 633CSI

[Daggerty]

2jz swap it

[Jdesign]

If anything its getting an LS swap if its got a knock.

[Jdesign]

I finally got around to ordering the reference and cranks sensors for this thing. They should be here on Thursday.*** EDIT they just showed up on my desk, nice mistake USPS*** In the meantime, I plan on taking out the injectors and soaking them. I hope to have this thing running VERY VERY soon. Fingers crossed. 

[Jdesign]

It's alive!!!!!! 

It runs but its rough due to very very varnished gasoline. I already drained as much as I could trough the pump but I will have to drain the tank as well. A new filter is in order as well as all the tune up goodies and fluids now that it runs. Its crazy I went from having no cars running and driving to three cars running and driving in a matter of a few days.

[B C]

3 running BMW project cars

WIBIMMERS has a new King!

Side note: John Goodman is looking a bit too much like Kim Jong-un there

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

3 running BMW project cars

WIBIMMERS has a new King!

Side note: John Goodman is looking a bit too much like Kim Jong-un there

Don't go and curse me now. 

[YoungCR]

So it's time to turd polish this thing??

[Jdesign]

YoungCR said:

So it's time to turd polish this thing??

You're damn right it is. Time to stock up on buffing compound and buffing wheels. 

As a matter of fact, I bought a new fuel filter, plugs, cap and rotor, air filter, and sway bar end links already today.

[YoungCR]

Jdesign said:

You're damn right it is. Time to stock up on buffing compound and buffing wheels. 

As a matter of fact, I bought a new fuel filter, plugs, cap and rotor, air filter, and sway bar end links already today.

Awesome. Have you checked out body shop supply off of fish hatch? Finally went in there and they have everything at wholesale price and they carry Cook's stuff from over in Milwaukee. 

Ive forgotten to mention this to you too but pull the valve cover and check the oil spray bar, car needs a valve adjustment probably too. it's a common problem for M30's to starve the valve train of oil between the banjo bolts backing out and the poorly designed spray bar. Most guys do this mod to pinch the bar for better pressure. 

http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/spray_bar_fix/70590.html

[Jdesign]

@YoungCRReally good information to know, I will have to do that once parts start showing up. I haven't dug that far into it yet as I have only been trouble shooting the electrical gremlins. I was impressed with the fact that is doesn't leak anything yet *(knocks on wood)* so I haven't touched anything that needed a gasket.

[Earl]

A livery would peel off so you're not hurting the cars potential worth=P 

[Bassboy3313]

Earl said:

A livery would peel off so you're not hurting the cars potential worth=P 

And I can hook you up with the livery too 

[Jdesign]

Yous guys are really killing me. I really want to leave the car completely stock if I can control myself. I just bought this shirt which is self inflicting pain of possible modifications.

Soo...........

I tried to drive this two weeks ago and was highly disappointed when it developed the famous start and stall syndrome. No idea what was going on I started with thinking the cats were probably clogged from all the rodents that were living in the engine bay prior to my owner ship. So I did the fastest thing I could think of to solve the problem.

I cut the exhaust off.

A nice little pile of rodent home making supplies that fell out of the rotten muffler..

.....And after all that, it still had the same issue, just louder. So I moved on to the intake side of things. These M30's have a flapper door for an Air Flow Sensor which is the predecessor to the MAF's that some cars still use today. I thought for sure this was my problem. I have this amazing write up from a gentleman that has saved me more than any Bentley manual could ever do. So I follow his step by step and tested the AFS.

  With the ignition on you should see the following voltage

• Terminal 1, blank,       
• Terminal 2, Zero volts, - I also had Zero here
• Terminal 3, 4.0-5.0 volts, - I had 12 volts here!! uh oh
• Terminal 4, 2.0-4.0 MILLIVOLTS - .8 milivolts here?!?!
• Terminal 5, 4.0-5.0 volts.  - and 4.8 volts here

So according to his guide, there was no reference to what you should do if you are getting more voltage than what you should. only suggestions if you are getting 0 volt  readings. I pondered and read further that there should be a relay that triggers the AFS on startup. I went over and tested the relay and it seems to work okay. So then I decided to test the harness. Doing so I found my problem. I have the main relay and the fuel pump relay powered with jumper harnesses to remove them as failures from the car starting. Doing so I only had 1 wire instead of two powering the fuel pump relay terminals. Because of this, I was not sending power to the AFS relay on start up. 

I made a new jumper and BOOM! Car started up and idled great. With that, I hopped in and finally drove it.

IMG_3860.MOV

It seems to have a stutter or misfire yet and the 1980's tires and worn suspension is obviously apparent. But man it felt great to finally have this thing moving under its own power

[Bassboy3313]

This is fantastic to hear! Keep it up!

[Jdesign]

This just in!!!

New O2 sensor and Oil filter from the brown delivery gods. I failed and should have ordered a valve cover gasket too.

[B C]

You are a mad scientist, my friend! Vacuum leaks are always the go-to for those kinds of problems but they are always tedious to track down. Check the throttle position switch to make sure it is showing the ecu the proper throttle position during idle.

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

You are a mad scientist, my friend! Vacuum leaks are always the go-to for those kinds of problems but they are always tedious to track down. Check the throttle position switch to make sure it is showing the ecu the proper throttle position during idle.

From what I have read according to the Internets (AKA my mad scientist kit) vacuum leaks will indeed cause this thing to run awful. Its the first on the list of the DIY guide I have been following, so I have already replaced the smaller vacuum lines, but have yet to move onto the larger valve cover breather lines and the brake booster lines. Those are to be replaced next as they seem really hard and brittle.

[Jdesign]

Well, I completed more work on this last night. I drove it a little further and it seems to drive much better when its cold vs. warm. Besides that it drives fairly well but the steering components really need some attention. I put it on the lift and took another gander.

• Control arm ball joint 
• Tie rod center joint
• Tie rod support joint
• Out side tie rod assembly 
• Front springs are still broken
• Strut bellows

Are all bad.

I did install new sway bar links up front as it was obvious they were bad.

After that I removed as many vaccum hoses as I could find, and scrubbed them with brushes and degreaser to inspect them for cracks and rotting. I was hoping to just replace some hoses to aid with the vacuum leaks, but it seems most of the hoses are specialty hoses so I had to order those that needed to be replaced. Surprisingly there was only one that had an obvious leak.

After all of this, I felt like the car needed its first bath in many years. I did a double wash, but the paint is in dire need of a cut and buff, so that will be next on the agenda. 

[Earl]

Honestly with the grilles painted trim black and the front end put on, this thing would still look great as is=)

[Jdesign]

Earl said:

Honestly with the grilles painted trim black and the front end put on, this thing would still look great as is=)

I need to get the grills off so I can paint them. They have studs molded onto the back side and they are spinning inside of the grills because the nuts are rusted to them. On top of that there is no room to cut them off without destroying the grills. So I keep putting this off, but I want to do it soooo bad.