Build Thread?
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Yesterday the car saw daylight for the first time in a year and a half.Ā
Car got taken to a guys place for exhaust, was hard leaving it behind lol
I want to work on it, but it is no longer at my house. Kind of disappointing!Ā
Cool panorama for the kids
Your rear tires go on the dolly while the fronts roll... unless you don't have a diff in of corse.
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Your rear tires go on the dolly while the fronts roll... unless you don't have a diff in of corse.
I was thinking the same thing.
Did you make an 'oops'?
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I have never seen it or heard of it done that way. And a quick Google search shows 98% of cars with the front wheels on the dolly.
Why risk having the front wheels track wrong ?
Edit: U-haul's website and instructions also state that the car MUST have the front wheels on the dolly.
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I have never seen it or heard of it done that way. And a quick Google search shows 98% of cars with the front wheels on the dolly. Why risk having the front wheels track wrong ? Edit: U-haul's website and instructions also state that the car MUST have the front wheels on the dolly. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
There are mixed feelings about the right way to do it. The front wheels should lock with the steering column, so you shouldn't have to worry there.
U-HAUL is just trying to cover their ass with that statement. Unless you're AWD (which you're not), I think you'll be just fine.
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Odometer is not cable, it uses the VR(?) Sensor in the diff. I don't have my battery or anything of the sort plugged in. I don't even remember if the odometer works on it lol.
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Correct, it will not count miles with the key off, the odometer is driven b a stepper motor inside the speedometer.Ā Should be fine to tow like that, Never tow a RWD auto trans with the rear tires rolling, the trans is what gets damaged from improper lubrication.Ā This is why it is common to remove the driveshaft on a truck being towed in this way.
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So, I picked up the car from Mr. Exhaust's house yesterday. He was an awesome guy to work with, we would communicate pretty much daily about details of the exhaust and getting progress pictures and he charged a very reasonable rate. His welds are fantastic, and his pipe routing is exceptional. I am extremely pleased with how everything went and the turnaround time.
Exhaust Specs: Everything is 304 stainless, 16ga (actually a little thicker), 3" mandrel bends.
3/8" turbo flange -> 30 degree 2.5" to 3" roll cone -> 3" v-band halfway down the downpipe -> flexpipe under passengers feet -> 24" stainless resonator -> 3" V-band before subframe -> 3" to dual 2.5" split -> Tips
Wastegate is also tied into the upper half of the downpipe.
He spent 25 hours to make it what it is, and I don't think it could get any better. I will get some more pictures later, before and after heat wrap!
My fuel lines should be here on Tuesday (after waiting over a month) and after that I cannot think of too much left to do before getting it on the road.
Started breaking in Tim's (Deadskittles) car, the built s52. That thing is a monster, 3/4 throttle in 3rd and the tires don't hold too well. Videos of that later as well!
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I will be able to work on it tonight so I will get some pictures.
The date stamp on your post is 12/31/1969 lol
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So, I finally had some time to work on the car last night. Was able to get the exhaust out and wrapped, but did not get the exhaust back on entirely. My fuel lines (that decided to start leaking) will finally be here today so those will go in the car.
Pictures!
So all in all I am super happy with how it turned out, and it most certainly came at a cost. The exhaust is crazy high up in the car for being 3" , as you can see the lowest spot is probably less than half an inch below the frame rail. Compared to what other exhaust I have seen it is very impressive.
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Looks awesome. Very good quality. You forgot pics of the tips!
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New fuel lines went in today as well!
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Blew the fuse on the battery , my fault. Luckily there is a fuse in line. Now to put in a replaceable one!
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Got my coil setup so I can hook up a timing light to the plug wire and check/confirm my timing when I fire it up next, which also means I have to drive it (20 mile break in)
Have been working on little things here and there, getting coolant in and fixing leaks, just odds and ends. Got megasquirt to sync up completely with full sequential injection so that is pretty darn cool.
More as it happens!
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So. As usual I suck at updating things once they get underway. I was able to get the car started, but was unable to drive it (running super rich) I spent a bit of time going through my settings and found that my injector pulsewidth base number was about 10MS, but for my injector setup I wanted about 8MS max. That leaned things out a bit! I am working on getting the tune better but was able to put on a few miles yesterday. A few comments about that.
Holy crap is the turbo loud.... Like, REALLY loud. Kind of awesome, but not the stealth that I was hoping for.
It spools FAST. Data log shows %50 throttle, 3100RPM and 7psi (current limit)
The timing was not set correctly, so it wasn't fast, but I could tell it wanted to be. Very excite to tune! (Much excite, very boost)
Also, the clutch feels like stock apparently, so that's also cool!
Hopefully vids once I get it tuned a bit better!
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