Fancy Stancy 325is

jc43089

Just driving it, 293k. Recently it abruptly started taking a long time to build up oil pressure after sitting overnight. I'm pretty sure the check valve is worn out or broken. I ordered one of these replacements from Russia. https://vanos-bmw.com/product/oil-valve-bmw-m50tu-m52-m52tu-m54-m56-11421713838 If you want a good chuckle read their poorly translated description, my favorite excerpt:

"As a result, when the engine heard the distinctive clip-clopping sound and on the dashboard there is a red oiler. Such failure is very dangerous for the engine, it misses in a timely manner a sufficient quantity of oil, as it takes a lot of time until the oil pump nakachatsya in a glass and gets into the engine. In the end, the start of the engine is converted for the owner into a repetitive nightmare."

I bought it through Ebay to avoid trusting my credit card with them in case their security is on par with their writing skills.

Too bad I didn't know about this when I replaced the filter housing gasket less than a year ago...

Jdesign

clip-clopping clippitiy clooop

Sweiggity-swoop

swoop swoop swootpity PooP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IUqC59EuEY

jc43089

295k,

I swapped in a ZF power steering pump that I resealed, now I have power steering which is cool.

I had a fuel leak by the filter so I replaced the filter and hoses

The blower was squeaking so I removed the cowl cover thingy and the blower cover and oiled the bushings, good to go.

I swapped in a rebuilt starter, much faster cranks for better starting in cold weather (last winter needed a heat lamp under the engine and 2 stroke oil in the gas to get it going below 0)

I poured the oil out of the intake manifold that accumulates. I think I should install a catch can...

And I also installed the Russian oil filter housing check valve. That works really well. Much better design and sturdier than the OE one. No more 10 seconds of oil pressure light on every cold start.

Bought it on Ebay but this is their website, read fully for chuckles at awful translation. https://vanos-bmw.com/product/oil-valve-bmw-m50tu-m52-m52tu-m54-m56-11421713838

B C

image.png.95e14fb9d1a268bf8fb80415aa375253.png

@m42b32 should have read this before starting his swap.

m42b32

snap said:

@m42b32 should have read this before starting his swap.

Crap, I wish I would've known sooner... time to start putting the m42 back

HipMF

m42b32 said:

Crap, I wish I would've known sooner... time to start putting the m42 back

It's still sitting in my storage unit if you need it back. You might have to find a new harness though, because @GunMetalGrey harvested the C101 off of it for another project...

I'd like to crack it open to see what the inside of a 400k mile engine looks like, but I'm keeping it sealed in case I need to toss an NA motor back in the car.

If I can make the turbo downpipe bolt up to my "stock" exhaust, bouncing back and forth between turbo and NA should be a weekend project...

#epictangent #plan2fail

GunMetalGrey

Hi
I don't know how we got to M42's here

All your C101 are belong to me

straight6pwr

GunMetalGrey said:

All your C101 are belong to me

this brought me back. thanks

SteelBlue

straight6pwr said:

this brought me back. thanks

I don't get it, but I find the phrasing very funny.

reminds me of this pasta:

apology for poor english

when were you when bmw dies

i was sat home drinking 5w30 when fren ring

'e30 is die'

'no'

straight6pwr

SteelBlue said:

I don't get it, but I find the phrasing very funny.

reminds me of this pasta:

apology for poor english

when were you when bmw dies

i was sat home drinking 5w30 when fren ring

'e30 is die'

'no'

lol that's pretty good.

'all your base' is a meme from the 90s. yes, we had memes in the 90s.

jc43089

GunMetalGrey said:

Hi
I don't know how we got to M42's here

All your C101 are belong to me

Can relate, that took me back a few years. PC gaming on Battlefield 1942, Counter Strike, etc, good times. I feel old now.

jc43089

I welded in rear subframe reinforcements last weekend. It was a little cold for painting so I set up some lights to keep the paint warm.

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Not beautiful with flux core wire.

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And subframe ready to go back in. The aluminum subframe bushings are great. I wanted to weld in the reinforcements because I was noticing a fairly loud pop noise every time I cornered left hard. I had seen a crack in the mount on one spot and temporarily welded it. I don't think that was the problem though because the weld still looked good. I think the inner bushings on the Maxspeeding lower control arms are garbage already and that might be the problem.

jc43089

Well the pop noise seems to be gone. Something must have been flexing and now it isn't. The inner bolt on the right lower control arm was a little loose so that could have been it too. Next up I need to install an X brace I have laying around and new tie rods and get an actual alignment, it's tape measure close but could be better.

jc43089

296k I'm living large now! I finally installed a drivers door handle I got from Glen last July at Road America. That is a deluxe feeling to not have to open the passenger door and reach across to use the inside handle.

It is a major pain to replace though, the window regulator needs to come out and the rear window track too. I used my rivet nut tool to install m6 inserts to reattach the window regulator. I took the opportunity to lube the window regulators and door/trunk latches with silicone, the windows work great now.

I also used the rivet nut tool to install the m8 rivet nuts for the X brace. I got my alignment set up well.

-1.75 camber rear

.1 degree total toe in rear

-2 camber front

.1 degree total toe in front

Other than that just ripping it up in the snow, the LSD really helps. I'm surprised it works so well for having so many miles on it. I did drain and fill it with Redline 75w90 a while ago.

Rekpoint

jc43089 said:

296k I'm living large now! I finally installed a drivers door handle I got from Glen last July at Road America. That is a deluxe feeling to not have to open the passenger door and reach across to use the inside handle.

It is a major pain to replace though, the window regulator needs to come out and the rear window track too. I used my rivet nut tool to install m6 inserts to reattach the window regulator. I took the opportunity to lube the window regulators and door/trunk latches with silicone, the windows work great now.

I also used the rivet nut tool to install the m8 rivet nuts for the X brace. I got my alignment set up well.

-1.75 camber rear

.1 degree total toe in rear

-2 camber front

.1 degree total toe in front

Other than that just ripping it up in the snow, the LSD really helps. I'm surprised it works so well for having so many miles on it. I did drain and fill it with Redline 75w90 a while ago.

Now you know the feeling I had when trying to pull it. I somehow got it jammed and it took me a few hours to get out.

YoungCR

You’ve now given me an excuse to buy a river nut tool as well those things are cool.

jc43089

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have. Before using it I completely disassembled it and greased all of the moving parts. It feels much smoother and like it will last quite a long time.

jc43089

I've just been driving it. 299,760 miles. I want to go for a drive today just to hit 300k. Sunroof drains must be plugged because water drips inside whenever it is raining which is super fun. This week I think I will remove the whole sunroof and fab some brackets to do a poor mans sunroof delete. I can't really spend 300$ on a CF sunroof delete panel.

Front brake pads needed soon, that must be from practicing heel toe downshifting aggressively into the roundabout on the way to work every day. I have some in my stash from the other car because that one is switching to e46 330 front brakes when it goes back together.

I am loving the Indy500 tires. They stick great.

wasnt m3

I've done the sunroof delete using the original skin, super easy. Finished it up with 3m seam sealer and leak free.

jc43089

wasnt m3 said:

I've done the sunroof delete using the original skin, super easy. Finished it up with 3m seam sealer and leak free.

Did you just fab some brackets/straps to hold the sunroof in place and then seam seal with tape underneath to keep it from dripping into the car?

WIBIMMERS

Fancy Stancy 325is