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  4. new to me, 98 M3

new to me, 98 M3

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #155

    the only two things I can think of that would be worth trying at this point are:

    get the brand/part number of the injectors so you can verify the flow rate. Then take a look at the chip in the ECU and see if it has any info that may help you match it to the injectors (may have a GIAC 24# label or something). 

    the next item is, have you tried the chip in another ecu in the car to rule out a wonky ecu?

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      cpandrewschmidt
      wrote on last edited by
      #156

      Haven't swapped DME at all.  Don't have an extra, or a car to swap into.  Are there other ways to test DME?  When you say ECU, it's the same as the DME, right? 

      For Injectors all I know about them if from when I sent them in.  He said "They are "weber style"  After cleaning The dynamic flow test ( 12 ms pulse width / 2400 rpm / 25 seconds ) had flow rates of 100 up to 104 cc.s across the board. The injector flow balance is now very close to 3.8 %.  He said they all performed flawless in all the tests and All of the injectors held pressures over 80 psi without leaking a drop, and their spray patterns were perfect."

      I'll pull one soon to get the model # off them. 

      On my DME.  I pulled it a few weeks ago to look at it.  I've read about corrosion issues.  Sure enough, it was pretty corroded.  I thought that would be it.  Attached are before and after cleaning pictures, along with the "chip" side, which was clean.  I cleaned it real well with electrical cleaner.  No difference in how car performed and it did clean up well.  I would guess it was still OK, nothing looked fried on the chip side of things.  No visible burn through marks on the board.  Also, all live data systems like o2, stft, ltft, MAF etc all get readings when plugging in my code reader.  So, they appear to be reading fine.  

      DME before.jpg

      DME after.jpg

      DME chip side.jpg

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #157

        Yeah, DME/ECU, same thing depending on how german im feeling at the moment

        My mistake by saying " chip"  its OBD2 which means it needs a reflash to install the supercharger tune on it. Im not too worried about the ECU being bad. It would just be great to know for sure what size injectors are on there and what size the software is for as kind of a "back to square one" type of check. You can diagnose all you want but if the tuning is wrong for the injectors then you will never luck diagnosing it and throwing parts at it. 

        @m42b32   can your newfound flashing skills come to play here? I dont remember seeing anything for injector size in Tuner Pro, but is there any way to verify injector size on the tune with what you have?

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        • m42b32M
          m42b32M
          m42b32
          wrote on last edited by
          #158

          snap said:

          @m42b32   can your newfound flashing skills come to play here? I dont remember seeing anything for injector size in Tuner Pro, but is there any way to verify injector size on the tune with what you have?

          @Daggerty you tuned your e36 with the stock DME right? Were you able to find definition files for your car or did you work around it? I have yet to find anything useful for ms41.2 (s52).

          1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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          • D
            D
            Daggerty
            wrote on last edited by
            #159

            Yes the newest download is on romraider which for whatever reason it won't let me log on and the admin won't respond to my emails. I have some of the definitions.

            I don't know if I would be able to get anything of of the DME because big name tuning companies lock them or whatever. So Joe Shmoe, no pun intended, can't steal their tune.

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              Daggerty
              wrote on last edited by
              #160

              One thought, knock sensor will pull timing which will change how the mixture burns changing afr. If you can get freeze frame data that would help out a lot.

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                cpandrewschmidt
                wrote on last edited by
                #161

                I'm using an "autolink" scanner from a friend, same one on page 2 of this.  There's a section for freeze frame data.  It shows: DTCFRZF, FUELSYS1, FUELSYS2, LOAD_PCT(%), ECT(degreeF), SHRTFT1(%), LONGFT1(%), SHRTFT2(%), LONGFT2(%), RPM, VSS(mph)  - what should I look for in that?  Live data seems to show more categories.  

                I also have the ability to datalog from http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwlogger  it shows pretty much same stuff as the live data along with Vanos IN/OUT

                Hopefully that Admin gets back to you :)

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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #162

                  Can you watch a trend/log of ignition timing?  Observe it on a working car so you know what it should look like and then observe on the BMW and see if you see odd drops.  That's what i have seen when ECU detects knock and pulls timing, but you can usually feel it.  My old Maxima would pull timing and feel like it was misfiring without premium gas and I was thought something was wrong until I watched the timing log and realized it was just protecting itself.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                    cpandrewschmidt
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #163

                    I have a datalog from a couple months ago saved in excel.  Can't drive the car the next few days because of the snow.  Jinxed us with putting summers on, sorry........

                    I tried to attach it here, not sure if it will work.  In looking at the IGN category it starts out around the 15 mark and hovers there for a while, then goes up to the 30 ranges and hovers around there.  I noticed at lines 8781, 9195, 9641, and 11785 it starts to drop down to 1 along with my Lamba sensors zeroing out.  Could be something, could be nothing.  I'm not really sure.  

                    Again, this log was from a little bit ago.  I assume if I do a few more runs it would overall look similar.  I'll do that when I can drive again with the weather.  If you all can take a peak at this and let me know your thoughts that'd be great.  

                    Datalog.csv

                    Attachments:

                    • Datalog.csv
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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #164

                      I tried exploding it up trending RPM, TPS, and IGN, it is hard to tell but it seems ok.  It is most useful to watch while riding in the car, and watching it react to throttle input.  Geneally you will see the timing increase as RPM increases, although the more throttle is opened will cause it to drop off.  If there is knocking detection you will see small spikes downward on the ignition timing.  

                      I saw this best on a friend's G8 GT that he had tuned but something wasn't right and heavy throttle around 4k would knock, you could hear it, so I used my OBDLink bluetooth device and we could see it pulling timing even slightly before the audible knock was apparent.

                      For a relatively cheap device I like the OBDLink MX, it's more expensive than cheap ebay bluetooth devices but it works great and the app that is free but only works with their device is quite good.  Just connect your phone and choose PIDs to graph.  I have not used it with a BMW though.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                        cpandrewschmidt
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #165

                        i don't really have any noticeable knock or miss that I can hear.  Pulls strong under under full throttle.  I'll monitor again when I get it back out.  Still curious to know more about if the injectors can be tuned or not.  My DME says its: MS41.1 if that matters.

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                          cpandrewschmidt
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #166

                          working on the convertible.  Subframe out, thanks for the tips @Jdesign .  It dropped down just fine with out the bar trick.  Guess I got lucky but this job still sucks btw!  Had issues getting it to clear the driveshaft.  Ended up having to undo the back half of that to get it to clear and drop.  Have some nice smashed fingers.   

                          I'm doing all my bushing while it's out.  Ordered new Ground Control System Coilovers as well since my JOM's sucked.  

                          Also doing wheel bearings.  I forgot to losen my axel nut while it was on the car.  Am I going to be screwed trying to get that loosened?  Wonder if that will have to wait till things are buttoned back up?  

                          subframe.jpg

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                          • EarlE
                            EarlE
                            Earl
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #167

                            Have a half inch impact? It should bust those loose pretty easily once you get the locking plate out.

                            museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                            • m42b32M
                              m42b32M
                              m42b32
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #168

                              Earl said:

                              Have a half inch impact? It should bust those loose pretty easily once you get the locking plate out. 

                              ^ This. A decent 1/2" impact (and soaking in a bit of penetrating oil for good measure) should make quick work of those axle nuts

                              1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                cpandrewschmidt
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #169

                                thanks, yep i'll try my impact!  Do e30 trailing arm bushings need to be preloaded?  Any tips on doing that off the car?

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                                • D
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                                  Daggerty
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #170

                                  You can put some of the wheel studs in and put a bar in between them to stop it from moving. If the impact doesn't work for whatever reason.

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                                  • C
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                                    cpandrewschmidt
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #171

                                    Got the nut off no problem with impact wrench.  Got to buy a new one 😄 I finally got this putting it back in last night.  This job sucked.  Part of the bearings froze onto the hub, had to cut and hammer and wedge in a vice to get it off.  2 hours alone messing with that.  Bushings were all ok to put back in.  Press was a life saver.  No idea how anyone could do this without one.  Some pictures of the carnage along the way.  Saw online people burning their bushings out.  That proved to be pointless because you still had to press out the metal sleeve.  But I'm sure my neighbors appreciated the fire.  Smashed my hand with a hammer and have taken more showers to get grease off in a week than I would normally in a month.  Picture doesn't do justice to how dirty I really was!  New GC Coilovers arrive today.  Will get the rears in and button everything back up.  Will get to the fronts in the next week or two.  I have to cut 2" of the sleeve and reweld for the type of shocks I got.  Gotta find a welder.  I'll post more pictures when all done! 

                                    vert subframe out.jpg

                                    vert subframe 1.jpg

                                    vert subframe 2.jpg

                                    vert subframe face.jpg

                                    hand.jpg

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                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #172

                                      Battle wounds, the chicks dig it.  i usually drill/cut to remove the rubber part of bushings and then cut through the metal sleeve and they collapse and fall out.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #173

                                        Subframe bushings, Doing anything with the pedals (manual swap), oil pan gasket replacement (in car), and steering rack replacement with engine in place.

                                        these are my least favorite jobs on an E30.  

                                        Life gets better!

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