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new to me, 98 M3

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • m42b32M
    m42b32M
    m42b32
    wrote on last edited by
    #158

    snap said:

    @m42b32   can your newfound flashing skills come to play here? I dont remember seeing anything for injector size in Tuner Pro, but is there any way to verify injector size on the tune with what you have?

    @Daggerty you tuned your e36 with the stock DME right? Were you able to find definition files for your car or did you work around it? I have yet to find anything useful for ms41.2 (s52).

    1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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      Daggerty
      wrote on last edited by
      #159

      Yes the newest download is on romraider which for whatever reason it won't let me log on and the admin won't respond to my emails. I have some of the definitions.

      I don't know if I would be able to get anything of of the DME because big name tuning companies lock them or whatever. So Joe Shmoe, no pun intended, can't steal their tune.

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        Daggerty
        wrote on last edited by
        #160

        One thought, knock sensor will pull timing which will change how the mixture burns changing afr. If you can get freeze frame data that would help out a lot.

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          cpandrewschmidt
          wrote on last edited by
          #161

          I'm using an "autolink" scanner from a friend, same one on page 2 of this.  There's a section for freeze frame data.  It shows: DTCFRZF, FUELSYS1, FUELSYS2, LOAD_PCT(%), ECT(degreeF), SHRTFT1(%), LONGFT1(%), SHRTFT2(%), LONGFT2(%), RPM, VSS(mph)  - what should I look for in that?  Live data seems to show more categories.  

          I also have the ability to datalog from http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwlogger  it shows pretty much same stuff as the live data along with Vanos IN/OUT

          Hopefully that Admin gets back to you :)

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          • jc43089J
            jc43089J
            jc43089
            wrote on last edited by
            #162

            Can you watch a trend/log of ignition timing?  Observe it on a working car so you know what it should look like and then observe on the BMW and see if you see odd drops.  That's what i have seen when ECU detects knock and pulls timing, but you can usually feel it.  My old Maxima would pull timing and feel like it was misfiring without premium gas and I was thought something was wrong until I watched the timing log and realized it was just protecting itself.

            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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              cpandrewschmidt
              wrote on last edited by
              #163

              I have a datalog from a couple months ago saved in excel.  Can't drive the car the next few days because of the snow.  Jinxed us with putting summers on, sorry........

              I tried to attach it here, not sure if it will work.  In looking at the IGN category it starts out around the 15 mark and hovers there for a while, then goes up to the 30 ranges and hovers around there.  I noticed at lines 8781, 9195, 9641, and 11785 it starts to drop down to 1 along with my Lamba sensors zeroing out.  Could be something, could be nothing.  I'm not really sure.  

              Again, this log was from a little bit ago.  I assume if I do a few more runs it would overall look similar.  I'll do that when I can drive again with the weather.  If you all can take a peak at this and let me know your thoughts that'd be great.  

              Datalog.csv

              Attachments:

              • Datalog.csv
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              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #164

                I tried exploding it up trending RPM, TPS, and IGN, it is hard to tell but it seems ok.  It is most useful to watch while riding in the car, and watching it react to throttle input.  Geneally you will see the timing increase as RPM increases, although the more throttle is opened will cause it to drop off.  If there is knocking detection you will see small spikes downward on the ignition timing.  

                I saw this best on a friend's G8 GT that he had tuned but something wasn't right and heavy throttle around 4k would knock, you could hear it, so I used my OBDLink bluetooth device and we could see it pulling timing even slightly before the audible knock was apparent.

                For a relatively cheap device I like the OBDLink MX, it's more expensive than cheap ebay bluetooth devices but it works great and the app that is free but only works with their device is quite good.  Just connect your phone and choose PIDs to graph.  I have not used it with a BMW though.

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                  cpandrewschmidt
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #165

                  i don't really have any noticeable knock or miss that I can hear.  Pulls strong under under full throttle.  I'll monitor again when I get it back out.  Still curious to know more about if the injectors can be tuned or not.  My DME says its: MS41.1 if that matters.

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                    cpandrewschmidt
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #166

                    working on the convertible.  Subframe out, thanks for the tips @Jdesign .  It dropped down just fine with out the bar trick.  Guess I got lucky but this job still sucks btw!  Had issues getting it to clear the driveshaft.  Ended up having to undo the back half of that to get it to clear and drop.  Have some nice smashed fingers.   

                    I'm doing all my bushing while it's out.  Ordered new Ground Control System Coilovers as well since my JOM's sucked.  

                    Also doing wheel bearings.  I forgot to losen my axel nut while it was on the car.  Am I going to be screwed trying to get that loosened?  Wonder if that will have to wait till things are buttoned back up?  

                    subframe.jpg

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                    • EarlE
                      EarlE
                      Earl
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #167

                      Have a half inch impact? It should bust those loose pretty easily once you get the locking plate out.

                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                      • m42b32M
                        m42b32M
                        m42b32
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #168

                        Earl said:

                        Have a half inch impact? It should bust those loose pretty easily once you get the locking plate out. 

                        ^ This. A decent 1/2" impact (and soaking in a bit of penetrating oil for good measure) should make quick work of those axle nuts

                        1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                          cpandrewschmidt
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #169

                          thanks, yep i'll try my impact!  Do e30 trailing arm bushings need to be preloaded?  Any tips on doing that off the car?

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                            Daggerty
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #170

                            You can put some of the wheel studs in and put a bar in between them to stop it from moving. If the impact doesn't work for whatever reason.

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                              cpandrewschmidt
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #171

                              Got the nut off no problem with impact wrench.  Got to buy a new one 😄 I finally got this putting it back in last night.  This job sucked.  Part of the bearings froze onto the hub, had to cut and hammer and wedge in a vice to get it off.  2 hours alone messing with that.  Bushings were all ok to put back in.  Press was a life saver.  No idea how anyone could do this without one.  Some pictures of the carnage along the way.  Saw online people burning their bushings out.  That proved to be pointless because you still had to press out the metal sleeve.  But I'm sure my neighbors appreciated the fire.  Smashed my hand with a hammer and have taken more showers to get grease off in a week than I would normally in a month.  Picture doesn't do justice to how dirty I really was!  New GC Coilovers arrive today.  Will get the rears in and button everything back up.  Will get to the fronts in the next week or two.  I have to cut 2" of the sleeve and reweld for the type of shocks I got.  Gotta find a welder.  I'll post more pictures when all done! 

                              vert subframe out.jpg

                              vert subframe 1.jpg

                              vert subframe 2.jpg

                              vert subframe face.jpg

                              hand.jpg

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                              • jc43089J
                                jc43089J
                                jc43089
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #172

                                Battle wounds, the chicks dig it.  i usually drill/cut to remove the rubber part of bushings and then cut through the metal sleeve and they collapse and fall out.

                                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #173

                                  Subframe bushings, Doing anything with the pedals (manual swap), oil pan gasket replacement (in car), and steering rack replacement with engine in place.

                                  these are my least favorite jobs on an E30.  

                                  Life gets better!

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