Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
-
Well I'm gonna have to order another one then...
make sure you mock it up first to check. its possible that motor mounts/trans type/trans mounts/prior vehicle accidents/etc may create slightly different alignments.
Dan
-
make sure you mock it up first to check. its possible that motor mounts/trans type/trans mounts/prior vehicle accidents/etc may create slightly different alignments.
Is it the holes on the bracket of the CSB that makes them fit differently? Do they mount to the under body portion of the car?
-
No, it's the offset of the bracket
-
This^ I found that out when I swapped my car that the offset of that bracket is important! LOL
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
right after it rains is a great time for night photography. i happened to have my camera late tonight after the storm rolled through milwaukee. (albeit only with a wide angle, so the variety of shots is not very...varied)
also didnt have a tripod, so everything was hand-held and and shot wide-open, so the depth of field is not great. but i digress.
Dan
-
This shot is $$$$.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Agreed. Dan you've got a great eye for photo setup. Nice pics!!
thanks!
Dan
-
welp, I rented a small garage for the winters, so I'm excited I'll get to slowly plug away at my spring project list and just get to driving once the snow goes away.
list for over the winter:
1.replace power steering lines due to leak
2.fix speedo - working intermittently. pulled it and reconnected all the plugs, no change. will dive into the internals to check for borked connections: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1617464-Intermittent-speedometer-and-mpg-gauge
3.replace the windshield
4.swap rear speakers to premium units
5.wire aux fan properly, currently running with an on/off override switch and no temp control.
6.detail interior
7.detail undercarriage
8.sell bbs RS wheels and buy cheap daily wheels + auto-x tires setup.
this weekend I got the garage setup better and the power steering hoses + res done. for the inquiring minds, here is the part list. exact setups may vary, but my situation is: e30 with e36 rack and s50 swap and the stock res in the stock e36 bracket on the driver's side motor mount. an extension is needed on the return line with this configuration, as the hose loops towards the back of the motor and needs to make a turn. there may be a better solution out there, but this is what exists on the car, so I left well enough alone. as well, you need to cut the feed line shorter than it comes.
BMW Power Steering Reservoir (ZF) - 32416851217
BMW Power Steering Return Hose (E30) - 32411133401
BMW Power Steering Hose (Res to Pump) - 32411135936
BMW Crush Washer (16x22mm) - 32411093597
BMW Hose Clamp - 07129952109
Dan
-
Curious about this as well. Most area garage ads I see are just for storage and prohibit working on cars, or are overpriced.
I found a private garage for rent, nothing commercial in mke fits the bill. You can find varying single/double private garages for rent in town for $75-300. It took a bit of looking/waiting. Its a single car 11x20 which is plenty spacious for an e30.
Dan
-
Reading through some of this thread just reminded me of how much work I still have ahead of me.
Ugh...
just don't forget to enjoy the car between all that work.
Dan
-
well, i went to work on the e30 two weekends ago, and got a no start. it felt a lot like a flooded engine, which makes sense. i've had leaky injectors since I bought it, and have had a couple of pretty good backfire starts in the summer if i didnt drive the car for a week or more, suggesting there were some fumes built up in the manifold.
i got back to the garage today to get the injectors and spark plugs pulled so everything can evaporate and I can swap in rebuilt injectors next week.
sadly, the no start cranking attempts combined with the cold weather flatted the battery farther than my trickle charger could keep up, and i arrived to find a frozen, bulging battery.
one step forward, two steps back!
Dan
-
update: rebuilt injectors and spark plugs came in, so time to swap them. I went with rebuilt original green top units for the injectors and Denso Iridium IK20 for the plugs
hello old friend. it's sure convenient to leave the car disassembled and already to go for the next car day. (i've never had this luxury)
well, not everything went as planned. after swapping everything in and trying to start the car it didnt fire. cranked fine, but wouldnt fire. with how long i cranked it, it didn't flood so I assumed it was fuel related.
so, starting from square one on diagnosis.
1. I made sure the gas was OK since the car has been sitting in such cold weather for a few months without running. I pulled the sender to check the tank and the fuel smelled and looked fine.
2. I checked the pump by jumping the relay pins and it chooched just fine.
3. I checked the fuel pressure at the rail by popping the line. plenty of pressure.
4. Lastly, I pulled the rail/injectors from the manifold and connected the harness and cranked the car over to see if the injectors were firing. Only 1 of the 6 was pulsing:
so, still not wanting to assume that my new parts were bad, i had to make sure it wasn't the wiring or ecu. I checked all the connections and grounds. I have no real way of diagnosing misfire codes or ecu codes, and the car ran just fine before I changed anything, so I decided to start swapping the old injectors in place of the new ones one-by-one to see if I got a different results. sure as shit, all 6 of the old injectors fired just fine. it turns out that the 'rebuilt' injectors I received were totally useless.
it sounds like the seller i bought them from is willing to work on getting me working ones, but not sure how much i trust them at this point...
-------------------------------
so, after getting the car warmed up running with old injectors, I turned my attention to other things.
New (properly sized) battery installed. my too-short battery bit the dust on that cold snap. it'll be nice to not have this ghetto-rigged anymore.
the 'standard' speakers in this e30 have always been too quiet. with the windows down on the highway, it was hard to hear the music. swapping to premium rear speakers on an e30 is easy.
standard speakers on the rear shelf:
backside of the shelf. you can see it is designed to hold both styles of speakers. there are punched lines on the cardboard under the insulation where you need to cut for the premiums.
cut out the new opening:
install new speakers:
note that the inner front screw holding the speaker to the shelf has to be shorter than the other 3 in order to not hit the metal body under the rear shelf.
Dan
-
Pintle injectors can become stuck when stored dry/not used for a while.
these were stored for 2 month since purchase, all in individual ziplock bags.
I found an article. should I attempt to free these and test with the 9v battery before sending them back? Or is it risky since they've been stuck?
http://injectorrepair.com/knowledge-base/
someone said:
Long Term Storage of Injectors:
The internals of some injectors are made of various steel alloys that may corrode / rust with prolonged exposure to moisture. Many injectors are manufactured with stainless steel, but some components may not be stainless (pintle spring, etc). Large parts of North America experience enough atmospheric humidity to cause corrosion and rust damage to unprotected metals.
For long term storage, it is important to lubricate an injector with a good quality light weight machine oil like 3 in 1 oil. The injectors should be then placed in a sealed plastic bag or a sealed container and stored in a cool, dry place.
Sometimes Injectors Get “Stuck” Closed After Sitting Around Too Long:
Use a small 9 volt battery to check for stuck injectors before installing them in an engine. Just listen for a click. If it clicks, then it is not stuck. If it is stuck, a light tap on the body of the injector can usually free it. BE GENTLE!!!
Dan
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login