Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped

[patsbimmer1]

Going up in psi seems contradictory to what i've been taught and what i've read.  If it works it works but did you see what it's jumping up to with heat?

[KaiserRolls]

patsbimmer1 said:

Going up in psi seems contradictory to what i've been taught and what i've read.  If it works it works but did you see what it's jumping up to with heat?

Tires rolling over too much maybe?

[Boris3]

Typically you do bump them up for autox. Short runs with tight turns that cause tire rollover and variations in heat. The magic tire pressures vary by car, suspension, tire, driver, road surface, weather, etc. Variation in pressures from front to rear depending on all the above. Plus you'll see folks with tire blankets and water sprayers trying to get the right heat - grip combinations.

Chalking the tire shoulders and seeing the wear lines is one easy way to check for rollover and whether you need to adjust pressures up/down. Pyrometers are a step up for measuring heat variation at centers and edges.

All sorts of ways to go deep down the rabbit hole with this stuff. At this stage though more fun to just bump up the pressures, go fast and try not to kill too many cones.

[straight6pwr]

yeah, my tires have super wishy-washy sidewalls, so a bump in pressure definitely improved responsiveness. not sure if 45psi is the right pressure, but i based it on the tires max psi and online research.

Boris3 said:

Chalking the tire shoulders and seeing the wear lines is one easy way to check for rollover and whether you need to adjust pressures up/down. Pyrometers are a step up for measuring heat variation at centers and edges.

All sorts of ways to go deep down the rabbit hole with this stuff. At this stage though more fun to just bump up the pressures, go fast and try not to kill too many cones.

i saw a couple guys chalking tires and measuring with pyrometers, but as you suggest, I'm resisting the rabbit hole. the only money I want going into this is replacing parts from any extra wear/tear. and maybe tires. and maybe sway bars.

I also found out that my tires are pretty garbage for racing, in general. after the last run of the day, I got a re-run due to a timing error, so I was able to do two runs directly back-to-back. the second run the tires felt slippery at the hotter temps.

also to note, i have not killed any cones yet, but i do have a few DNFs

[m42b32]

straight6pwr said:

I'm resisting the rabbit hole. the only money I want going into this is replacing parts from any extra wear/tear. and maybe tires. and maybe sway bars.

Sounds like the rabbit hole resisting is going well 

[straight6pwr]

m42b32 said:

Sounds like the rabbit hole resisting is going well 

maybes.   really, what it comes down to is that I really don't give a shit about my times against anyone else. i like to best myself by the end of the day, but, then I find that the last few runs I'm just being a hoon because its fun. the car is super fun as it is, so I will keep reminding myself of that.

[straight6pwr]

first bit of fall. can't wait for the colors to really show.

[B C]

i'm still green with envy. What a machine

PS:  lemme pop dat hood

[KaiserRolls]

Gosh dang, white is the best color on an e30

[Jdesign]

Looks damn spectacular. Alpine White is the best color.

[straight6pwr]

Snap said:

i'm still green with envy. What a machine

PS:  lemme pop dat hood

hood poppage scheduled for after the fall cruise. gotta do heater core/coolant hose/some other things at that point.

[straight6pwr]

well, i was going to tackle some of this in the fall before putting the car 'away' for the winter, but i couldnt help myself and just drove the car to the last minute.  so, i'll try to tackle this in one weekend (maybe 2) before driving season kicks off in may. 

the list for april (to be done by may 1):

1. turn my hot air intake into a colder air intake, incl. bimmerworld silicone intake boot and something beer related
2. brake refresh: install new stoptech sport pads, blank rotors, ss brake lines, remote brake fluid reservoir, ate super blue fluid. my brakes are 'meh' at best. i couldn't lock them up in the rain at autocross  probably the worst of the 3 e30s i've had. could just be some bad pads on there, but we'll see. 
3. replace heater valve, spider hose, and additional coolant hoses. replacing the water pump and thermostat 'while i'm in there'
4. new intake manifold seals,  brake booster check valve, and crank case vent lines, clean ICV 
5. new valve cover gaskets, oil cap to stop leaks. powdercoating the valve cover and new spark plugs and coil boots 'while im in there'
6. get new tires installed. 205/50r16 BFG G-force sport comp 2
7. new engine harness cover or wrap 'while i'm in there'
8. reseal dipstick tube to oil pan

the list for the rest of the year:

1. find oil level wiring, or add it. 
2. find washer fluid pump/sensor wiring, or add it. reconnect washer tank to hood hoses.
3. replace windshield with used OEM glass. 
4. wire in electric fan correctly. (connect to run all the time currently) https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210783
5. permanently mount elec fan with bracket kit.

did some small prep today, mostly to get the valve cover off for painting.

oops, that's a puddle of oil in there.

5 of 6 were dry

another found 'hack'. i suppose this bit of sharp steel plate was used as a lift location. with a teeny 10mm bolt in an aluminum head casting.  i removed it because i like my blood to be inside my veins and my s50 head in one piece. 

mystery harness wires that i need to figure out. picture for self reference. 

intake side!

[B C]

yeesh, hopefully that lifting point was only used for a head install. Thats a good list though. brake pads are next up on my car after I start driving and remember how scary these ones were the last time I drove it.

[straight6pwr]

snap said:

yeesh, hopefully that lifting point was only used for a head install. Thats a good list though. brake pads are next up on my car after I start driving and remember how scary these ones were the last time I drove it. 

for the sake of all that is holy, i hope the guy who put this swap together didnt have the head off.

i really should check the brand of pads and try de-glazing them, but the car needs the remote reservoir and the brake lines look original and yada yada yada snowballed

[m42b32]

straight6pwr said:

brake refresh: install new stoptech sport pads, blank rotors, ss brake lines, remote brake fluid reservoir, ate super blue fluid. my brakes are 'meh' at best. i couldn't lock them up in the rain at autocross  probably the worst of the 3 e30s i've had. could just be some bad pads on there, but we'll see. 

Is this for intake clearance? What reservoir are you planning to use?

[straight6pwr]

m42b32 said:

Is this for intake clearance? What reservoir are you planning to use? 

yes. the stock rubber intake boot is already pressing against the reservoir, which makes me uncomfortable. the bimmerworld silicone boot is a bit bigger. i'll be running the 2002 res, bolted in the spot where the stock engine relays used to be via this adapter. http://n15design.com/product/e30-remote-brake-fluid-reservoir-bracket/?v=7516fd43adaa

itll look like this, more or less, when finished.

[B C]

If I change booster setups I will probably do the same.  Does your booster/do all ix boosters have the standoff circled in yellow?

[m42b32]

straight6pwr said:

yes. the stock rubber intake boot is already pressing against the reservoir, which makes me uncomfortable. the bimmerworld silicone boot is a bit bigger. i'll be running the 2002 res, bolted in the spot where the stock engine relays used to be via this adapter. http://n15design.com/product/e30-remote-brake-fluid-reservoir-bracket/?v=7516fd43adaa

itll look like this, more or less, when finished.

Gotcha, that bracket looks like a nice way to mount it! You have an IX booster right? I'm hoping I can get away with the standard reservoir and an e21 booster since it's not as deep as the IX one.

[KaiserRolls]

944 booster and some shaved manifold fins with solid mounts

[straight6pwr]

snap said:

If I change booster setups I will probably do the same.  Does your booster/do all ix boosters have the standoff circled in yellow? 

yes, the ix has the standoff bracket in yellow which can be left for a direct bolt on, or removed and the firewall holes slotted. if removed, there is no clearance issues with the intake but you'll have to shorten the pushrod of the booster. i guess technically mine would be fine as is, i just dont like how close it is.

m42b32 said:

Gotcha, that bracket looks like a nice way to mount it! You have an IX booster right? I'm hoping I can get away with the standard reservoir and an e21 booster since it's not as deep as the IX one. 

yes IX booster. yeah, you'll be fine.