Lifted E30 V2
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I have no clue if I can or not.
It's not worth $600 to buy a pump that may not work and then be stuck with a pump no one buys.I've got a message out to see if I can use that rebuilt one on ebay that I posted.
There is just about zero info out there about these fuel pumps lol.I would be interested in this too given how rare these pumps are. I'm not sure if it's useful since they are european pump specs but here is some detailed info about the various pumps on m21 d and td models.
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I would be interested in this too given how rare these pumps are. I'm not sure if it's useful since they are european pump specs but here is some detailed info about the various pumps on m21 d and td models.
Welcome and thanks for the awesome info! The only part of that chart I don't understand is why the early 324d has a VER 206 pump and the 524d has a VE pump, even though they both have the same 6047 identification number. Possibly an error? Anyways even though this doesn't have US specs to compare, Ben has a VER pump out of a euro 524d?
The main thing is the injectors and fuel pressure are the same for all of the mechanical pumps (E28 and early model e30's) so there shouldn't be any issues buying a used VE or VER pump as they are practically identical.
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Amusingly enough, those pump numbers don't line up with any that I have or have seen for sale. The number listed for the pump has a small unit on the side that I have yet to determine the function of, but it t's off the pressure relief valve on the low pressure side of the pump.
I went to the diesel shop last night to pick up my injectors!
They are quite beautiful!
They ended up costing a bit more than expected due to needing to clean all the rust out of them.
$850 dollars and I finally have some injectors to install!I called yesterday to compare pumps from what was on the motor to the one on ebay and the guy called back with info but I wasn't at my phone. I figured I was going to the shop anyway later so I would just talk to him then, but he had left for the day. So I will be finding out today if I found a fuel pump that will work. Fingers crossed!
That's about all for now folks!
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Boy oh boy does this feel good to say!
I ordered a fuel pump!
I called the local shop to ask about the part number difference and was told it is just an updated number, they are updated parts, and the testing specs are the same.
The new pump delivers 1cc fuel less than the old one in stock config, but when you're looking at 40cc injection there is a tiny percentage difference there.The new pump is already rebuilt and ready to go!
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How are you going to install the crush washers to the injectors?!
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How are you going to install the crush washers to the injectors?!
I managed to push one onto the injector last night in the kitchen, so now I just need to find something slightly larger than the injector to push it the rest of the way down.
Should be alright. -
New pump was $500, I offered less than he was asking and he accepted it. That'll show up on Wednesday.
Got the washers on all the injectors, used the workbench to get them started, then used a 12pt. 17mm socket to drive them the rest of the way down.
Old one vs. the new ones
I need to make some motor mounts before I want to torque things on the motor as it is still dangling from the support bar.
I ordered material yesterday from Speedy Metals and am hoping I can pick that up today. -
HAHAHa, that's awesome!
They did call and say it was ready for pickup, though they were much less enthusiastic than that video makes them out to be! -
Thanks to Speedy Metals I got some 1.5" x 2.5" x .188" wall rectangular tubing, which just so happened to be the perfect size for spacing my motor mounts back up after having lowered the subframe!
I set it in place, guessed a location for the motor mount stud, drilled a hole for that, installed it back in the chassis and marked for the lower hole. Put a bolt through the tubing then tightened both things up.
I did take them back out and paint them, but they look like someone just threw rectangular tubing in as a spacer.
With the motor back on its own feet I installed the new injectors.
The BMW manual said to torque them to ~30 ft lbs but that didn't seem like anywhere near enough. Consulted a VW friend who has a diesel with similar injection setup and their manual says 50 ft lbs, which is much more comfortable. So those are in.I also got to pick this beauty up yesterday!
I'm hoping to have enough time this Friday to get that installed and see if I cant get the motor running once again!
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hot sauce! can't wait to see it running.
have you worked on programming your ecu to lower your emissions?
Dan
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WOOT WOOT!! I cant wait to see this thing going again!
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🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
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Ben, why are your tools oily? Because I took sharp things to a perfectly good oil pan is why!
I needed a spot to plumb the crankcase separator back into the oil pan as it drains a fair bit of oil, and a 3/8 NPT fitting was the most convenient, so out came the tap and the 37/64th drill bit. Conveniently a friend had given me the tap and drill awhile ago, and had turned down the shank of the bit to fit in a standard drill chuck. The downside is that he made the bit impossibly sharp to the point where it is difficult to drill aluminum because it catches so much.
Success!
I had to do this with the fuel pump out, otherwise I would not have been able to get a drill down there.Put a new timing belt tensioner / idler in and also placed the fuel pump in its designated location.
Injectors in, pump in, pan drilled. Next step is to time the fuel pump then bleed the air out of the system.
Hopefully rolling some coal this weekend! -
Am I the only one wondering how you're going to get the metal chips out of the pan? Wouldn't have been more convenient to do this while the subframe was out for spacer installation?
Hey now, a few metal flakes never blew up an engine. I doubt it would suck any up and when it does the pump might blow but if not the filter will get um
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Am I the only one wondering how you're going to get the metal chips out of the pan? Wouldn't have been more convenient to do this while the subframe was out for spacer installation?
Subframe wasn't out at any point during spacer stuff, but I can certainly drop the pan with ease now.
Leaving the oil in the pan was actually beneficial to keeping chips controlled. The chips all piled up on the sides until the bit started going through, but once the bit went through the oil kept all of the chips right at the surface and in the hole. Turned out to be quite handy. I do intend to change the oil and flush the chips out a bit with extra oil through the hole I made. Should be a-okay.Speaking of subframes, it is really funny to walk around the car and see a massive air gap between the subframe and the oil pan.
On to better things!
I spent some time getting the motor and pump timed. I started from ground floor on the timing and set the crank, cam, and pump at their respective TDC's and then threw the timing belt back in. Spun it a few times and it looked good.
Static timing the pump is amusing, as you unscrew a bolt in the back and thread in a dial indicator and zero it out on the largest value, rotate the crank to TDC, then read the value of timing advance, if the number isn't what it needs to be you rotate the pump in the brackets until the reading on the indicator is correct.
Motor timing, check.I then played the puzzle of fuel lines, which I thought would have been easier. They all fit together in one very specific way, so once I figured that out I took each one back out and cleaned it up a bit. Final result below!
Next step is to get fuel into everything and start bleeding the fuel system, which is a bit time consuming and can lead to headaches. Once again I want to make sure it runs before putting everything back together.
Don't worry, I'll remember to take the towels out of the intake ports... lol
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