Lifted E30 V2

[Earl]

If you don't see any cracks and it is all pretty level I would say just throw a head gasket in and see if it fixes your issues. Not much else internally besides your water pump scenario would make sense. Plus you save the time of swapping the motor again and who knows how the inside of the other motor looks. This way you have peace of mind on that

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

The really dark part of the HG between the pistons is odd, and something that I have not seen before. 

I'm torn between swapping head gaskets or replacing the motor with on of Mr. Young's spares. 

It also looks like someone had a little valve to piston contact at some point in its life. 

My guess would be that dark portion could be carbon deposits from a bad gasket? In the past I have seen cylinders connect before and cause all kinds of weird issues, and normally there is a path of discoloration between the two.

If I was you, I would check the head and make sure its square, and just toss a new gasket on it VS swapping the motor.

Also where do you see the valve and piston contact, would it be possible you have a bent valve? I would check into that as well. 

PS- We are all still waiting to see rear flares.

[jc43089]

Look very carefully for cracks in the head between the exhaust valve seats and the cooling passages.

[GunMetalGrey]

I pulled the water pump and it was A-Okay. 

I will closely inspect the exhaust to coolant passage area on the head to ensure there are no cracks. 

I think I will end up ordering stuff to do the HG as it will cost a bit less than replacing the motor, and be less work. If that doesn't fix it then I shall take more drastic routes. 

I will be taking the head in to have it decked / checked as I am assuming it is no longer straight.

[GunMetalGrey]

Jdesign said:

PS- We are all still waiting to see rear flares.

I should start on that soon. 
But then I come up with other really bad ideas and want to try those first

[Jdesign]

I love bad ideas, I am full of them. 

[GunMetalGrey]

Dropped the head off at the machine shop last night. Guy pulled the plugs (I forgot to) and looked at them and said, oh yeah, this head gasket has been bad for quite awhile. I never mentioned the head gasket being bad. 
This amuses me.

[Earl]

[Jdesign]

Well there ya go. LOL

[GunMetalGrey]

Head gasket and head bolts have been received. 
Waiting on the head to come back from the machine shop and then it's reassembly time. 

I'm still hoping to ice race this weekend if the event isn't cancelled.

[B C]

How much for the inspection and machine work?

[GunMetalGrey]

$60

[Earl]

That sounds like a great deal=) Wasn't the place you used for your exhaust manifold was it?

[GunMetalGrey]

Earl said:

That sounds like a great deal=) Wasn't the place you used for your exhaust manifold was it?

Hahaha, nope! I won't set foot in that place again. 
It's a local guy that has always done my motor work, and does it at a good cost and his work is always great.

[Earl]

haha just foolin=) Did they end up getting you that new manifold?

[GunMetalGrey]

Shiny head! 
I got it all assembled and it still overheated, so either I'm bad at bleeding m20 cooling systems or something is wonky. 
I took the thermostat out and it still started creeping past 1/2 at idle, so I replaced the clutch fan. Shall test all of that tonight. 

This car resulted in this picture, it makes dealing with constant issues easier.

[KaiserRolls]

PBR? Did Andy buy something from you?

[GunMetalGrey]

KaiserRolls said:

PBR? Did Andy buy something from you?

lol, nope! That's Mikes beer of choice.

[straight6pwr]

pbr is pretty good for cheap light beer. better than lite or bud or other terrible domestic light beers.

on topic - i'm sure you know how to bleed one of these cars, but what process are you going through exactly?

i just bled my e30 before winter and it took probably 4 cycles of: start car - warms up - massage radiator hoses -  starts to creep past 1/2 - shut it off - let it cool - open the cap - more coolant - repeat.

[KaiserRolls]

FWIW, my cluster reads more than half. Shooting the t stat housing always comes back around 195F +\- 5

Which is close enough for me, currently using a 92C t stat so it's right about where it should be. I'm sure the ground nut and 30 year old electronics arent being helpful.

Also why I'm installing an actual temp gauge this winter...