Shop Life 2.0
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Part number has changed a couple times since 1982. Was searching 3 different vendors to find someone who had all of the parts I needed in stock and could get them shipped in time for a reasonable price. Somehow ended up with an output seal instead of an input seal...

Another week on jackstands...
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Got the diff seal replaced over the weekend, so I've enlisted the car for daily-driver duties this week. So far it seems to be holding all it's fluids. I hosed engine-bright all over the bottom of the car and blasted it at the pay-n-spray, but the interior of the car still smells like gear lube now that I'm keeping the windows up. So far it's been a hoot though. It's hard not to drive like a juvenile delinquent in this thing, so that's fun.

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Didn't mention it earlier because I didn't really believe it, but I put the car on a second truck scale and it seems to agree with the first. First scale said 2320 with me in the car and half a tank of fuel. 2nd scale said 2380 with me, almost a full tank, a bag of tools and a couple other miscellaneous items. So roughly 2150 without me and half a tank. Still need to add some metal to the trunk, but that's a couple hundred pounds lighter than I was expecting...
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Didn't mention it earlier because I didn't really believe it, but I put the car on a second truck scale and it seems to agree with the first. First scale said 2320 with me in the car and half a tank of fuel. 2nd scale said 2380 with me, almost a full tank, a bag of tools and a couple other miscellaneous items. So roughly 2150 without me and half a tank. Still need to add some metal to the trunk, but that's a couple hundred pounds lighter than I was expecting...
Fantastic! Wow that is light.
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This is also a couple hundred less than I would have guessed!
What was the first aluminum block 4 cylinder from BMW? N20? Hah
as sac religious as it always is, a honda F20 would be a magical swap in that chassis
S14 would be the ideal swap. F20 is the affordable equivalent and has definitely been on my radar from the start.
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F20 is a pain, get a K20 with an adapter plate, have endless loads of joy.
Care to elaborate? Glancing at numbers they seem to be lower redline, and predictably less horsepowers, but otherwise pretty similar. I haven't really researched it much, so have no idea of the benefits of either engine, or what it would take to make either of them fit in the chassis...
Since I already have a decent stockpile of parts, the current plan is to just throw a small turbo at the M42 with 8-10 psi and see what happens. I'd love to have a high-reving temperamental 4-cylinder though. I think the sounds and driving experience would really fit the car as it is now, but in the long-term I can see myself turning the dial on this project back down from 11 and trying to put some driveability and refinement back into the car. In terms of around-town driveability and autocross performance (pretty much all 2nd gear at a variety of rpm) the torque of a small turbo makes more sense than a high-reving NA. Not that you couldn't boost a Honda, but keeping the M42 just feels like the right think to do.
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It really all depends on what you are building the car for, and how you feel about the power plant. I like Japanese engines because of the reliability so I tend to favor them. I also love odd swaps and out of the norm modifications. I suggest the K20 over the F20 because of aftermarket support, lower price point, readily available parts, and the early F20's had oiling problems. You will see that even a lot of Honda guys favor the K over the F. As far as reving goes, keep in mind that you can swap blocks and heads around to make power differences as well (similar to M20 strokers). Just spend some time online looking at comparisons and you can help build a good decision Im not sure which is lighter, but I bet its not the M42.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/htup-1010-2003-honda-s2000/
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Car looked and sounded great out at the autox, Mike. Also, nice driving! You're a faster driver than me, thats for sure. Thwarted by another m42 car!
Hope you dont mind if i post these here:





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'tis the season
Took it for one last spin Saturday morning to pick up some mini tacos and an engine cart, then backed it in and yanked the motor.
This year's plan:
Raise engine/make sure driveline is straight. (Oil pan hangs really low right now)
Swap the bottom end for one that I have in storage that's in better condition.
Remove some rust that's left in the trunk and weld in an actual trunk floor.
Turbo
Additional things I may do if i get bored with those things, or I'm avoiding working on them for some other reason:
Make the ends of the rear flares blend with the body nicer
Grind/filler/paint rear flares
Make rear portion of side trim fit somehow
install carpet or something in the rear seat area, or just paint... not sure
Front flares. Probably not gonna happen this year, but who knows
Should be fun...
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Dooo ittttt
4GLTE swap, coming right up.
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JOIN ME
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/d/1jz-twin-turbo-and-r154/6730382005.html
“Everyone wants this motor do not want my time unless you have cash in hand.”
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JOIN ME
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/d/1jz-twin-turbo-and-r154/6730382005.html
Toyota engines have a reputation for being heavy, and since it's 2 cylinders longer all the extra weight is in front of the front axle, so.... No.
Currently looking into standalone ECUs. Lots of research to do, but currently leaning towards Haltech.
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JOIN ME
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/d/1jz-twin-turbo-and-r154/6730382005.html
Why is there a V8 badge on the front of the 1JZ?

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