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  4. My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • EarlE
    EarlE
    Earl
    wrote on last edited by
    #839

    m42b18 said:

    Those mirrors look fantastic, the car is round enough that they work perfectly in my opinion

    Thanks sir. I think it is the bubbly butt that helps them work=)

    KaiserRolls said:

    this is one big ass paper weight right now

    but i love it :wub:

    Come say that to its face=P haha

    museum sig 2earl.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • EarlE
      EarlE
      Earl
      wrote on last edited by
      #840

      Things actually happened since last update.

      Friday I went to the shop after work and smoothed out all of the welds I could get with a flap disc.
      CAM00203zps8ea25598.jpg
      CAM00204zps99732043.jpg
      CAM00205zps8a7f32db.jpg
      CAM00206zps594a291a.jpg
      CAM00207zpsa481035b.jpg

      I need to find something small to fit into the remaining areas to grind.

      I spent Saturday morning at the meet and then came back to the shop with Andy.

      We removed the tie rods from my rack and cleaned it up a bit.
       

      CAM00210zps884b6d17.jpg

      I found where it was leaking right away. One of the lines rotted through.
      CAM00212zpsf0a47d0c.jpg
      CAM00213zps3eeb390a.jpg

      I removed them and will be capping them off since I deleted power steering.
      CAM00211zpsd080e303.jpg

      My lovely girlfriend then stopped by to drop off my package from ECS Tuning.
      CAM00214zps19b18537.jpg

      There was a ton of harware and my tie rods, but two other things stood out.
      CAM00215zps412d8ab1.jpg
      CAM00218zps6b44fd1a.jpg
      CAM00219zps709b38b6.jpg

      I have always wanted the raised BMW front rubstrip. It seems that the area it mounts on my rep bumper is a little off from OEM, so I will need to do some light sanding of the bumper for the rubstrip to sit flush.

      I have also really wanted the euro M3 radiator cover since I saw one and it wasn't too bad of a price. Only $35 and ECS carries them.

      After that I took my old oil sensor and replaced it.
      CAM00217zps828b5d0e.jpg
      CAM00216zpsd73d48a5.jpg

      Around this time I actually felt like working on the car more and just started tearing into it. This was around 6pm and I needed to stay at the shop until 8:30 because my girlfriend and I were going out to see Andy for his birthday. I figured since the bay is getting rewelded shortly, the undercoat needs to come off as soon as possible. I also want to get my knuckles,calipers, and front subframe painted before putting the new control arms on.

      Off with her head
      CAM00220zpsa1eb7cc9.jpg
      CAM00221zps57bd9053.jpg

      This week I will be picking up a wire wheel and getting all of the undercoat off. I am glad I actually got something productive done and I hope it continues.

      museum sig 2earl.jpg

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • ClassEC
        ClassEC
        ClassE
        wrote on last edited by
        #841

        Thanks....... I've been at work for an hour and half now and have nothing to show for it because of this thread.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • B
          B
          B C
          wrote on last edited by
          #842

          ClassE said:

          Thanks....... I've been at work for an hour and half now and have nothing to show for it because of this thread.

          Earl has been at work on this thing for a year and a half now and has nothing to show for it   (*_*)

          gQF4OOa.gif

          (post will be deleted when the car is up and running.)

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #843

            ClassE said:

            Thanks....... I've been at work for an hour and half now and have nothing to show for it because of this thread.

            You're welcome=)

            Snap said:

            Earl has been at work on this thing for a year and a half now and has nothing to show for it   (*_*)

            gQF4OOa.gif

            (post will be deleted when the car is up and running.) 

            Hey, it hasn't even been a full year yet=) I parked it in November of last year

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • R
              R
              REKIII
              wrote on last edited by
              #844

              Looks good!  Be careful taking the front end on and off so much.  You might wear out the fasteners and mounting holes.  ;)

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #845

                I was thinking about that. Hopefully I won't have to do it much more.

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #846

                  Friday I split my old control arms from my knuckles and compared them to my new ones.

                  CAM00229zps262ecbad.jpg
                  CAM00230zpsb8fdaa3c.jpg
                  CAM00231zpse2f62e99.jpg
                  CAM00232zps84b1f148.jpg

                  The front end will feel a million times better with the new ones. It is odd because my car felt super solid before. I cannot imagine how nice it will ride whenever I finally finish the car.....

                  I had to leave the shop shortly after that because I got something in my eye and it was really bothering me. When I got home it ended up just being dust in my contact making my eye dry out.

                  Saturday I spent all day getting the undercoat out of my wheel wells. I thought at first I should go down to bare metal, but then figured I will need to primer/paint it before undercoat again anyways so I just focused on getting the undercoat itself off. I am very happy with the end results.

                  CAM00234zps7952131f.jpg
                  CAM00233zpsdc11f60b.jpg

                  Right now my buddy is able to do the welding this weekend. Hopefully that doesn't change over the next few days.

                  I have also been honing my drift skillz on Forza 4 with Kaiser so come and play with us=)

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • EarlE
                    EarlE
                    Earl
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #847

                    So the bay got some much needed attention this weekend.

                    Saturday and Sunday my friend Greaser Kyle started working his fabrication magic on the bay.

                    I should have gone to him in the first place. Whate neded up happening is the guy I had weld before layed really tall tacks and when I ground them out, it ended up making some thin spots. This lead to Kyle having to fix blow through as well as patch a section that got really thin from his grinding. He is working out out so there won't be any issues after he is done.

                    I started saturday morning by removing one of the last brackets.
                    CAM00241zps8b410efa.jpg
                    CAM00244zps3a2f2dbd.jpg
                    CAM00243zps448b2b35.jpg

                    I didn't get many pictures of what Kyle got done.

                    Here is the hole he cut to patch where it got thin.
                    CAM00245zpsd49d6b1a.jpg

                    You can see it all patched up here.
                    CAM00249zps6802d72f.jpg
                     

                    That mount of weld up top was to add some thickness where a little hole was. He wants to use as much weld as possible so that I really don't need much filler at all later.

                    He is gone up north this coming weekend and then gone hunting the next, as well as Thanksgiving. I won't see him for about three weeks so that means I will be working on routing the airlines for the front through the inside of the car as well as finally putting my motor together a bit more=)

                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #848

                      Looking good, maybe i missed this but is the welding for strength, looks, etc?  Just curious because I will be doing a bunch of work over the winter.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • R
                        R
                        REKIII
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #849

                        jc43089 said:

                        Looking good, maybe i missed this but is the welding for strength, looks, etc?  Just curious because I will be doing a bunch of work over the winter.

                        Pretty sure he's welding to make everything smooth.  Some just use filler, but then it cracks after awhile.  Welding is the better way with only filler to make it perfect.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • EarlE
                          EarlE
                          Earl
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #850

                          Exactly what Robert said=) It is for filling the seam where the strut tower meets the wheel well. Otherwise people stick a bunch of filler in there and it cracks when stress is added. This will strengthen the seam and filler will only be needed for minor waves or imperfections in the metal.

                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • jc43089J
                            jc43089J
                            jc43089
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #851

                            OK, so mostly for looks.  Very cool, I can't imagine how anyone would think only filler would stay in the area around the shock towers, they flex when you drive hard.  That welding looks good, it is mig, not flux core correct?  I need to get a gas bottle so I can do things besides rusty frames and exhaust.

                            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #852

                              Yeah it is MIG. He was getting very frustrated with blow throughs so just started piling it on. haha

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • EarlE
                                EarlE
                                Earl
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #853

                                Trying to decide if I want to run m3 front brakes. Once I do I will be placing my rotor order with Adams Rotors. I am having a hard time choosing a pattern.

                                http://www.adamsrotors.com/gallery/gallery_detail.aspx?gallery_cat_id=1&gallery_id=2

                                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • jc43089J
                                  jc43089J
                                  jc43089
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #854

                                  Maybe cheaper to find e46 330 front brakes, I got rotors, pads, calipers, and brackets for 150 from Teds part out.  325mm vs 315mm for the e36 m3.  I just test fit them and they bolt right up, my 16" contours clear them barely.  I will have pics on my thread tomorrow.

                                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • EarlE
                                    EarlE
                                    Earl
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #855

                                    The thing is that those rotors would cost a fortune from Adams Rotors. Sizing up to m3 fronts already adds an extra $100 to the quote for 318ti rotors. Not to mention my front to rear proportioning would be way off due to zero upgrades for my rear brakes.

                                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #856

                                      Their site lists 300 for m3 front rotors and 250 for 330 fronts.  M3 parts are always more, becauses M...  Biasing stays good with e46 328 rears.  I have a link saved on my work computer about the biasing I will link to it tomorrow.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • EarlE
                                        EarlE
                                        Earl
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #857

                                        I have a compact though. The only way I can upgrade is swapping in an entire z3m subframe.

                                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #858

                                          Are you keeping ABS?

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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