My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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Looking good!!
#threadjack If anyone is looking to purchase shop space give the doctor a call. I can search around for you.
    @DrLeadFoot
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Periodically. Â I used to live near there and have some friends over that way.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.3696217,-88.3199726,610m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en
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So I am thinking of relocating the fusebox because I have to take it apart to get the ABS harness out anyway. What were your plans with it? Such as where is it going to be when you are done and how much wire modification will need to happen. I'm thinking the fusebox location would be a great place to put my coolant overflow, that way it's on the same side as the coolant supply and return.
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I have yet to do the tucking of the wires under the dash but I am basically clustering the relays and fuses to make them easy to reach with my kick panel out. The grounds and all other wires will be tucked up higher since I will not need to access them. The only extending that needs to be done is for the harness going to the front of the car. For that I got a spare harness and just need to extend my wiring by around a foot. The other tricky part is getting the connectors for the harness through the firewall by the blower . I will be doing that after the car gets back from paint. From conversations I have had, all of that seems to be long enough to fish into there=)
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Ok, so you won't have an actual fuse box but the stuff will be bundled and sorta organized above the pedal area? The fusebox itself is excessively large. We can tackle this together then. I am removing my ABS harness without cutting it right now to cut down on the mass of wires are you keeping/ did your car have ABS?
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It had it but I removed the ABS pump. How do you go about removing the wiring and module? I was going to inquire you about that=)
Also, you have it exactly right. Just an organized bunch under the dash. The only thing that box really contained was all of the weird connections that sat in the bottom of the box.
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I will take pictures, its not that hard to get the parts out from behind the dash and that go through the car to the rear, the ABS computer is the metal case sitting vertically on the left behind the passenger side of the dash, the connector is just like the ECU connector. The wiring is completely separated and is its own harness from what I have found so far, I have also been cleaning up the bundles of wire with zip ties and removing the cloth tape that is no longer doing anything but making my hands a mess when working with the wiring. Do you have the HVAC box out?
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I still have the HVAC box because I want to be able to defrost my windshield. I was thinking a heat trace cable in the ducting would warm the air instead of using the heater core (coolant) but then I still have the dilemma of no longer having a blower motor lol
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It is pretty easy to get out, There are 4 nuts that you access from the engine side of the firewall, then one bolt in the center/rear on the transmission hump. You have to unhook the wiring and then remove the steering shaft support hoop so you can pull it straight into the car. You do not need to disassemble anything under the hood around the blower, I did looking for more fasteners and it was just the gasket/glue sealing it to the firewall.
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All BMW radiators that I have seen have a direct port for bleeding etc that is at full radiator pressure. Other cars with a radiator cap and the little line coming from the neck to a non pressurized overflow do not allow flow to the bottle unless cooling system pressure is higher than the spring pressure in the radiator cap. I just eyeballed the Turner one and it appears to be a normal BMW style with no cap meant for a pressurized overflow system. The technical terms for a non pressurized is an "overflow tank", a pressurized system has an "expansion tank". I was curious because I am looking for a good one to use for mine.
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