My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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So I am thinking of relocating the fusebox because I have to take it apart to get the ABS harness out anyway. What were your plans with it? Such as where is it going to be when you are done and how much wire modification will need to happen. I'm thinking the fusebox location would be a great place to put my coolant overflow, that way it's on the same side as the coolant supply and return.
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I have yet to do the tucking of the wires under the dash but I am basically clustering the relays and fuses to make them easy to reach with my kick panel out. The grounds and all other wires will be tucked up higher since I will not need to access them. The only extending that needs to be done is for the harness going to the front of the car. For that I got a spare harness and just need to extend my wiring by around a foot. The other tricky part is getting the connectors for the harness through the firewall by the blower . I will be doing that after the car gets back from paint. From conversations I have had, all of that seems to be long enough to fish into there=)
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Ok, so you won't have an actual fuse box but the stuff will be bundled and sorta organized above the pedal area? The fusebox itself is excessively large. We can tackle this together then. I am removing my ABS harness without cutting it right now to cut down on the mass of wires are you keeping/ did your car have ABS?
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It had it but I removed the ABS pump. How do you go about removing the wiring and module? I was going to inquire you about that=)
Also, you have it exactly right. Just an organized bunch under the dash. The only thing that box really contained was all of the weird connections that sat in the bottom of the box.
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I will take pictures, its not that hard to get the parts out from behind the dash and that go through the car to the rear, the ABS computer is the metal case sitting vertically on the left behind the passenger side of the dash, the connector is just like the ECU connector. The wiring is completely separated and is its own harness from what I have found so far, I have also been cleaning up the bundles of wire with zip ties and removing the cloth tape that is no longer doing anything but making my hands a mess when working with the wiring. Do you have the HVAC box out?
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I still have the HVAC box because I want to be able to defrost my windshield. I was thinking a heat trace cable in the ducting would warm the air instead of using the heater core (coolant) but then I still have the dilemma of no longer having a blower motor lol
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It is pretty easy to get out, There are 4 nuts that you access from the engine side of the firewall, then one bolt in the center/rear on the transmission hump. You have to unhook the wiring and then remove the steering shaft support hoop so you can pull it straight into the car. You do not need to disassemble anything under the hood around the blower, I did looking for more fasteners and it was just the gasket/glue sealing it to the firewall.
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All BMW radiators that I have seen have a direct port for bleeding etc that is at full radiator pressure. Other cars with a radiator cap and the little line coming from the neck to a non pressurized overflow do not allow flow to the bottle unless cooling system pressure is higher than the spring pressure in the radiator cap. I just eyeballed the Turner one and it appears to be a normal BMW style with no cap meant for a pressurized overflow system. The technical terms for a non pressurized is an "overflow tank", a pressurized system has an "expansion tank". I was curious because I am looking for a good one to use for mine.
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In Snaps defense it looks like an expansion tank in the picture with how the hose connections are. One hose connection should be small and go to the radiator, the other will be 5/8"ish and go to the hose that used to go to the OE expansion tank, not sure what the hoses look like on a 4cyl though. I was looking on Summit and they have quite a selection, where in the engine bay are you going to put it?
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I would think it should be fine, there is always a higher pressure in the radiator than in the suction line when the engine is running which causes flow in the proper direction, out of the highest point on the radiator to the tank then out of the bottom of the tank to the pump suction. The e30 bottle has a tube that goes to the bottom of the tank on the small line from the radiator, this is probably to prevent air from returning up the line when the engine is shut off, you can open the cap and watch the bubbles come out of it when you first fill an m20 and run it. This might be a feature to look for in an expansion tank, or both lines coming into the bottom area of the tank would have the same effect.
Edit: I hope I am not sounding like I am raining on your parade, I am only trying to help. Although I am not going to be "stanced" we are doing a lot of similar things with our builds and I enjoy having someone to work through the details with.
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^I totally understand=) You're being very helpful. I also enjoy having someone to work through the details with. Two heads are better than one=)Â
Came home from a great vacation this past weekend and this picture was texted to me
Everything is sprayed besides the bay. Once they spray that they just need to wet sand and buff, as well as rehanging the doors, hatch, and hood. They also need to install the new rubber trims around the exterior (sun roof, rear window, etc)
This package was also at the door for me
With that I will need to source a 19mm master from a Porsche 944 turbo or an e21.
I am also trying to figure out what brake fluid reservoirs to run and really like these but need to dig more to see what they are from
Other than that my z3 rack should be arriving today as long as I am home when the FedEx truck arrives=) I need to order new banjo bolts for mounting my power steering delete. Does anyone know a good place to get them from?
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