Calypsorot '90 325i Coupe
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Thermo time switch? Not on an 'i'. Id like a pic of this.
Yes on the single pin being for gauge and dual pin for ecu.
Sputtering on throttle could also involve a shiesty AFM which is worn or out of adjustment (low spring tension causing it to peg open too easily), faulty FPR which doesnt supply accel enrichment, vac leaks that cause a lean spike with sudden throttle change, or lazy O2 sensor.
If you are looking for an adventure we could install my megasquirt ecu and you can see how great life is without an afm
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I'll snag a pic, your right I think it's just those two sensors on the e30 vs the eta's I was comparing to. AFM was my other thought too. I doubt it's a vac leak because the car runs/drives normal until up to temp. Like I said I drove it up and down the street for a good 10 minutes before starting to have issues. It seams like any idle time after warmed up causes the issue yet it still idles ok but a bit higher.
Parts are being shipped in this week but ordered a full ignition kit, ecu temp sensor, tps, timing belt kit and I have a tstat laying around to throw in. Other things I'm forgetting too but we'll see how it runs after the tune up.
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Replaced both coolant temp sensors yesterday and while I think it helped I still have the same issues.
Drove the car around for 10 minutes until warm. Let it idle for like 2 minutes and then drove some more. Usually after any idle it would start sputtering. Was able to drive up and down the block and then it started acting up. Temp was up to 3/4.
Pulled back up to the shop and let it idle. CEL came on but went away when throttle applied. Still sputtered/missed but not as much hesitation as previous trials. Turn the car off, let it sit for 2 minutes and fired back up. Was able to freely rev with no misses/sputter.
Side notes: there is a small leak back by the fuel filter so the filter and associated lines will be replaced. Also Im sure the cooling system needs to be bled since removing the sensors so that's might be what cause the higher temp reading this time.
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Haven't updated this in a while but unfortunately we weren't able to pull things together for the picnic because of the water pump leak after assembly
Fuel filter, cam seal, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, plugs/wires, cap&rotor were all replaced. We fired the car up for 30 sec after the valve adjustment and it seemed to be running smoother. When Ben went to put the cooling system back together though he discovered the leak. Ramsey and I redid the water pump yesterday with a new gasket and RTV and next weekend I'll bleed and flush the system a couple times.
The water pump actually got some rust from the couple weeks sitting un-filled. The coolant was pretty nasty and the water jacket has some rust as seen in the picture. Hoping multiple flushes and the Pentofrost NF coolant will help to maintain things. The head doesn't look to be in too good of a shape either.
Next on the list once the coolant system is solid is the oil pan gasket. I believe this is the source of the bad oil leak. Gonna change the oil again too after running some seafoam through the crankcase too.
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Behind on updating but this car made it out of the shop for a day!
Car ran and drove great Saturday night when I took it home and I went to cars and coffee Madison Sunday morning. While I didn't get and pics, Pat can vouch for me.
This was shortlived though as I stopped by the shop again that afternoon to clean up some things from the previous day. I had ordered some exhaust manifold gaskets and thought I'd just throw them on quick while I'm there. Taking the manifolds off I found out that the leak was also coming from the rear down pipe flange. Surprisingly it was still somewhat sealed but I must of broke it completly as the flange came off with the rear manifold
Ideally this would be the time to swap on some long tube headers but I can't wait for shipping. Gonna miss the Concours meet to hopefully get things patched up and at least make it to Lake Mills Sunday.
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He's not lying, I saw it with my own eyes!
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So the goal of this project was to present this at Matt's graduation party which we succeded with but the saga continues...
Friday night when I got home I took the exhaust off and threw the entire front section in my Mom's New Beetle and drove to my buddies house where we welded the flange back on. No after pics because I am a complete welding newb.
Saturday morning got to the shop early and took off the exhaust manifolds and started cleaning the side of the block. I removed the 12 exhaust studs from the ETA parts motor that were only a few years old. Installed them on the head, put new manifold gaskets on, cleaned up mani ports, then bolted on with new nuts. Exhaust bolted up, reused midsection gaskets, fired up car and it was pretty quiet! Drove car home.
Sunday morning it started as normal but idle was hunting slightly. The tach also went out at this time so can't say exactly what I did. Once warmed up this issue went away. Drove the car out to Lake Mills quick to meet up with Pat and had no issues. Drove back to Waunakee for the grad party and had a great afternoon.
So the young family curse had fallen on my dad's Prius the previous Monday when he smacked a deer at 65mph on 39/94. Since I don't need a daily he took me to my semi Monday morning and drove the car to work for the past two days. I got a call from him about an hour ago saying that the car started billowing black smoke from the motor while driving so AAA was in the process of towing the car to the shop.
We'll have to see what happened when I get home this weekend, damn cars.
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Never updated this thread but it was suspected that the head gasket blew in early June. Finally found the motivation to start working on this so I ordered a OTC compression and leak down tester kits and started pulling the plugs on saturday to find this come out of cylinder 3.
Deemed it unnecessary to continue with testing haha. Earlier today my brother Matt and I went over to the shop to work on the car for a bit to start removing the head. Got about 1/2 through disconnecting things and popped off the valve cover before we left. Broken rocker on cylinder 3.
Curious to see the carnage inside the cylinders now and if the tip of that spark plug is still kicking around. Good news is we got a plan set for getting a new motor over the winter.
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M50 swap....
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M50 swap....
Agreed
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Winter is here and is so motivation to get this going! Have been slowly working on getting the motor out which I planned on today. Decided to drop the trans and motor down under the car to avoid dealing with the starter. Everything is unbolted and ready to drop except we're hung up on the steering knuckle. Kaiser will send pics of what he had to do to get his subframe out. So yeah until next weekend...
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I'll have to remember to take that photo. But in the mean time this should be your new sig
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Pics or it didn't happen. Here's the linkage Chris.
You should be able to figure out how I took them apart
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It probably doesn't help too much because I don't have a rubber steering dampener thing. Just aluminum sleeves
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It probably doesn't help too much because I don't have a rubber steering dampener thing. Just aluminum sleeves
unfortunetly this was true. The rubber flex disc had crimped studs going through it. Ended up undoing the slip joint under the kneel panel and pulled it out.
So we dropped the subframe, pulled that, then dropped the motor on the floor. Raised the car up as high as the 3ton jack went and slid the motor out from underneath with just enough clearance.
Discconnected the trans and removed the clutch and flywheel. I've never mounted a engine on a stand before but the stock bell housing bolts weren't long enough to fit through the mounts unless I have it set up wrong. Suggestions?
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I went and bought some bolts from Ace that matched the thread pitch of the trans bolts and used those. Make sure they are rated accordingly
Edit. I was able to use 2 of my existing bolts (maybe because 24v)
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