E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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It sometimes helps with install if I jack the car up from the middle of the front subframe and let everything hang lol
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I believe it may be the push button itself. Hooked remote button to diag port, it cranked. Hooked push button up to diag port, it cranked too. Pushed it again and nothing. Hooked remote button to diag port and it cranks
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Thanks to Kyle's shop mate Connor, I'll be picking up my new modified rear subframe hopefully this week.
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Only a few guys I know have done it this way. Others have used the entire e30 subframe and just weld the e21 mounts to ends. That changed the offset and spacing tho. Same with using entire e28 subframe which others have done too.
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All about the rare parts up in here
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Yanked the starter out and got it tested at orielly. It's shit!! Grabbed a spare one and it tested good. I'll be throwing the good one in tomorrow and seeing what happens.
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Also, got a dead pedal from andy. Thanks again!
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Looks like you're about to grate some cheese to go with those grapes.
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Threw the starter in that tested good and all seems fine now. We shall see how it does for awhile. Now to figure out this MS tuning fiasco.
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Brian came to the rescue once again and figured out there was a vacuum leak from what MS was showing. Sure enough, the vac line to the ecu was off. We put it back on and drove around for a fair amount of time. Running great now!
I also started fitting the hood with the aerocatch hood pins. Talk about nerve-wracking.
I decided to make a little experiment with using the oem roller hooks instead of using 2 more pins near the windshield. Seems to work quite well. Now to just figure out how to do it permanently and stronger.
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I had a sync loss problem with megasquirt. So, when in doubt, do as Snapsquatch does ... sand off powdercoat from trigger wheel teeth and replace powdercoated crank sensor bracket with a clean bare metal one. Who would have thunk, IT WORKED!!! Well, I'm pretty sure it did since I somehow revved to 6996rpm even tho my limiter is set to 6500rpm. Used to sync loss right after 5000rpm. Fix one thing, find another. The nature of the beast.
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Went out last night for a longer cruise/tune session with Brian as my tuner. We dialed in a lot of different areas of the fuel map and changed some settings around too. Car is driving way smoother now. Love it!! The only issues as of right now are what looks to be a small boost leak, so I will be snugging up all the charge piping clamps and turbo compressor housing bolts. And an idle surge that seemed to have started after a lot of driving. We are thinking it has something to do with temp sensor heatsoak and/or looking at the temp compensation curve in megasquirt.
Goal for this weekend is to finish the rear roller mounts on the fiberglass hood and get that installed. Still looking for a good material to use on the underside of the hood for sound deadening and some heat protection.
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Today was pretty successful. First I installed the new ignition switch permanently from where I had that mishap on the way to the holy hill cruise. So that's done.
I then installed the dead pedal I got from father hundley. Feels good.
After that I started making fiberglass molds of the rear hood rollers mounts to put in the fiberglass hood. All went well, but I think I didn't use enough hardner in the resin. Shit!! We will see if guess.
Mounted a fire extinguisher to the trans tunnel since you never know when you'll need it, lol.
Lastly, I installed a Painless wiring remote master battery cutoff switch. It is comprised of a solenoid that gets mounted near battery. Solenoid gets wired in line of the positive battery cable. Then a small gauge wire runs up to a switch on the dash (which I used a master cutoff switch for its removeable key) which switches the ground. Turning the solenoid on or off.
What I have left to do is finish the rollers on the hood, find the boost leak and ground the alternator to see if that solves my lower voltage reading.
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Yeah Yeah yeah
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