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  4. E21 Project Thread - Part 2

E21 Project Thread - Part 2

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • straight6pwrS
    straight6pwrS
    straight6pwr
    wrote on last edited by
    #296

    Bassboy3313 said:

    Started working on the hood project. Since the fiberglass hood I got is just the skin with no support bracing, I decided to get creative. In order to get the hood in the correct position in order to fiberglass some bracing on underside, I decided to copy the curve of the original hood.

    How I'm doing that is taking some 1/2" pvc, laying it across the top of original hood, heating it up with heat gun enough to "melt" it to the correct shape. Once cooled down it will act as a rigid structure that I will glue to top of fiberglass hood. This will hold the hood in the correct position while I fiberglass the structural bracing on underside. Once complete, the pvc can be removed and if done correctly, will be perfect fit to the car.

    We shall see if my theory is correct or not, lol.

    3840a66286d588824c0bb0b9019c04f3.jpg

    The pvc on leftt is completed. Heat gun took a crap on me, so I need a new one to complete the one on the right.

    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

    may i suggest gluing at least one pvc piece as a cross brace to prevent twisting between the front and back. looking at the picture, make the pvc look like an 'N'

    Dan
    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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    0
    • Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313
      wrote on last edited by
      #297

      Thanks for the suggestion. The pvc you see in pic is only being used as a temporary "form" in a sense. It will hold the flimsy fiberglass hood to the correct shape while I fiberglass bracing in on the underside. The fiberglass bracing will definitely have crossbars and such. Pretty much mimicking the shape of the structure from original hood. After that's done, this pvc will be removed.

      Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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      • Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313
        wrote on last edited by
        #298

        Also, changing the one pin on fan relay to a switched power source fixed the issue of fan running when ignition is off. Now to just figure out these boost control settings. 😕

        Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

        CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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        • YoungCRY
          YoungCRY
          YoungCR
          wrote on last edited by
          #299

          motor swap again?

          http://www.moreschi.info/motori/bmw_m12(1).htm

          Chris Young
          BMWCCA #458972
          1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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          • Bassboy3313B
            Bassboy3313B
            Bassboy3313
            wrote on last edited by
            #300

            YoungCR said:

            motor swap again?

            http://www.moreschi.info/motori/bmw_m12(1).htm

            Now wouldn't THAT be amazing!!! *drool*

            Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

            CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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            • Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313
              wrote on last edited by
              #301

              Got the braces done for the hood project. Hoping it works as it should to hold the hood in correct shape while I fiberglass the structure underneath.

              645ef32f9c34f4da37124fcf834e1ba3.jpg

              Debating what to use to glue the pvc to top of hood. It has to be strong enough to hold hood to shape and also be able to be removed easily after structure is fiberglassed in underneath. Any suggestions?

              I also grabbed a set of smoked turn signal lenses. They are for Euro signals, so the US housings require trimming to fit. As you can see.

              168f0749f0af7705454ea0c292f87fb1.jpg

              9d4e9564226f6f9f8da822388afcb090.jpg

              Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

              CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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              0
              • B
                B
                B C
                wrote on last edited by
                #302

                310hp NA 4cyl

                I am fully erect

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                • Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #303

                  Well the pvc forms and hot glue seem to be working great!

                  4441c2b83e88626928e3b582ff2067c0.jpg

                  c91ed6c303b499dd85f1c8dc17f8086e.jpg

                  The hot glue will remove nicely too when it gets to that part. I'm taking Dan's advice and will be putting one more pvc piece on diagonal to make an N shape. I should then be able to remove from car, flip it over and glass in the actual structure.

                  Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                  CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                  0
                  • Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #304

                    Straight lines are hard

                    6f9048287ff30b933a850f7c74d8926f.jpg

                    2d715f80c6ff54e25ac1857f88a35190.jpg

                    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                    1
                    • Bassboy3313B
                      Bassboy3313B
                      Bassboy3313
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #305

                      So I got into my car this morning to do another tune run, push the start button (push button ignition) and I got absolutely nothing from starter. Everything gets power when I flip the ignition switch, but no cranking whatsoever from starter.

                      Battery is brand new, so that can't be the issue. All wiring I see is snug and tight. I have my start button wired up to the diagnostic port pins that go to starter and battery bus. It was the easiest way to do it at the time. I did disconnnect the wires and connected my remote test button to diag. port and still nothing. Haven't had any issues until now. Hell, it even started up just fine on monday.

                      Anybody have any ideas for me??

                      Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #306

                        Did you try jumping power straight to the starter to make sure the solenoid didn't shit out?

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                        0
                        • Bassboy3313B
                          Bassboy3313B
                          Bassboy3313
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #307

                          No I haven't. I'll have to look into it as I'm not familiar with doing that.

                          Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                          CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                          • DrLeadFootD
                            DrLeadFootD
                            DrLeadFoot
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #308

                            Use a screw driver to jump the posts.

                            Build is looking great!!

                            Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                            15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                 @DrLeadFoot

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                            0
                            • B
                              B
                              B C
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #309

                              DrLeadFoot said:

                              Use a screw driver to jump the posts.

                              Build is looking great!!

                              Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                              I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars

                              I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools

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                              • Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #310

                                Yeah. I wouldn't want to mess anything up further

                                Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                                • DrLeadFootD
                                  DrLeadFootD
                                  DrLeadFoot
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #311

                                  Snap said:

                                  DrLeadFoot said:

                                  Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!!

                                  Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                                  I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars

                                  I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools

                                  Is this why none of my cars work? Lol

                                  Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                                  15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                       @DrLeadFoot

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                                  1
                                  • Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #312

                                    Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem. 

                                    So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts?

                                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                                    • YoungCRY
                                      YoungCRY
                                      YoungCR
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #313

                                      I would wire up the ignition into the end of the harness instead of the diag port just to  eliminate concerns but a new starter wouldn't be a bad idea either.

                                      Chris Young
                                      BMWCCA #458972
                                      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                                      0
                                      • wasnt m3W
                                        wasnt m3W
                                        wasnt m3
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #314

                                        There's a place in Butler that rebuilds starters for $40, if you don't feel like buying a new one.

                                        m3sig-1.jpg

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                                        • Bassboy3313B
                                          Bassboy3313B
                                          Bassboy3313
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #315

                                          I got one with the sedan project, so maybe ill get that one tested and see if its usable. If so, I could swap it into the e21 and get that one rebuilt for the sedan.

                                          CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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