E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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Started working on the hood project. Since the fiberglass hood I got is just the skin with no support bracing, I decided to get creative. In order to get the hood in the correct position in order to fiberglass some bracing on underside, I decided to copy the curve of the original hood.
How I'm doing that is taking some 1/2" pvc, laying it across the top of original hood, heating it up with heat gun enough to "melt" it to the correct shape. Once cooled down it will act as a rigid structure that I will glue to top of fiberglass hood. This will hold the hood in the correct position while I fiberglass the structural bracing on underside. Once complete, the pvc can be removed and if done correctly, will be perfect fit to the car.
We shall see if my theory is correct or not, lol.
The pvc on leftt is completed. Heat gun took a crap on me, so I need a new one to complete the one on the right.
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Did some surgery to my megasquirt ecu today. Been wanting to have megasquirt control the cooling fan, but never knew how to get it working. After talking with Keith, the guy who made the unit, turned out to be easier than I thought.
Had to solder in 2 wires in order to have relay control from a spare pin on the db15. After doing that and buttoning the ecu back up, just had to run the ground wire from a 40A relay to the correct pin on db15 connector and tweak the settings in tunerstudio.
I am having one issue tho which I believe I found the culprit. With ignition off, the radiator fan will run constantly. With ignition on, it turns off unless engine temp is higher than allowed through MS. I then realized that I wired the relay to be constant power for both +12v pins. Which makes sense why the fan is running constantly when ignition is off. I'll have to run another switched source wire to the relay tomorrow morning to see if that solves it.
I also need to figure out the boost control settings since I got an error in tunerstudio when I turned it on with default settings.
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Started working on the hood project. Since the fiberglass hood I got is just the skin with no support bracing, I decided to get creative. In order to get the hood in the correct position in order to fiberglass some bracing on underside, I decided to copy the curve of the original hood.
How I'm doing that is taking some 1/2" pvc, laying it across the top of original hood, heating it up with heat gun enough to "melt" it to the correct shape. Once cooled down it will act as a rigid structure that I will glue to top of fiberglass hood. This will hold the hood in the correct position while I fiberglass the structural bracing on underside. Once complete, the pvc can be removed and if done correctly, will be perfect fit to the car.
We shall see if my theory is correct or not, lol.
The pvc on leftt is completed. Heat gun took a crap on me, so I need a new one to complete the one on the right.
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may i suggest gluing at least one pvc piece as a cross brace to prevent twisting between the front and back. looking at the picture, make the pvc look like an 'N'
Dan
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Thanks for the suggestion. The pvc you see in pic is only being used as a temporary "form" in a sense. It will hold the flimsy fiberglass hood to the correct shape while I fiberglass bracing in on the underside. The fiberglass bracing will definitely have crossbars and such. Pretty much mimicking the shape of the structure from original hood. After that's done, this pvc will be removed.
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Also, changing the one pin on fan relay to a switched power source fixed the issue of fan running when ignition is off. Now to just figure out these boost control settings.
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motor swap again?
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motor swap again?
Now wouldn't THAT be amazing!!! *drool*
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Got the braces done for the hood project. Hoping it works as it should to hold the hood in correct shape while I fiberglass the structure underneath.
Debating what to use to glue the pvc to top of hood. It has to be strong enough to hold hood to shape and also be able to be removed easily after structure is fiberglassed in underneath. Any suggestions?
I also grabbed a set of smoked turn signal lenses. They are for Euro signals, so the US housings require trimming to fit. As you can see.
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Well the pvc forms and hot glue seem to be working great!
The hot glue will remove nicely too when it gets to that part. I'm taking Dan's advice and will be putting one more pvc piece on diagonal to make an N shape. I should then be able to remove from car, flip it over and glass in the actual structure.
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Straight lines are hard
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So I got into my car this morning to do another tune run, push the start button (push button ignition) and I got absolutely nothing from starter. Everything gets power when I flip the ignition switch, but no cranking whatsoever from starter.
Battery is brand new, so that can't be the issue. All wiring I see is snug and tight. I have my start button wired up to the diagnostic port pins that go to starter and battery bus. It was the easiest way to do it at the time. I did disconnnect the wires and connected my remote test button to diag. port and still nothing. Haven't had any issues until now. Hell, it even started up just fine on monday.
Anybody have any ideas for me??
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No I haven't. I'll have to look into it as I'm not familiar with doing that.
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Use a screw driver to jump the posts.
Build is looking great!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Use a screw driver to jump the posts.
Build is looking great!!
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I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars
I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools
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Yeah. I wouldn't want to mess anything up further
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DrLeadFoot said:
Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!!
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I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars
I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools
Is this why none of my cars work? Lol
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@DrLeadFoot
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Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem.
So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts?
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