1991 318is M62B44 Build
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Crank and cam are hooked up.
DME isn't bad?
I had an issue where my swap would randomly shut off while driving but the DME was still getting power. It would start back up but would do it randomly. Put in a new main relay and different DME and now it's perfect. I also re-went over my grounds. Harness, engine, injector rail and my e fan
Do you have a different DME you can try easily?
Fuel pump primes when key is turned?
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so you got it?
my best guess for this was it was referring to which side of the connector and where it is headed. Basically male(pin)/female(socket) for that junction and everything 'socket' was on the side headed towards the body/other controllers and everything 'pin' was on the side headed to the DME. so your white connector is the 'pin' side, and the the 'socket' side is where its headed toward on the body.
B: Socket housing
S: Pin housingi wasnt positive, though, because your connector is missing some pins that are listed in the chart, although cars can differ from year to year
Dan
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Yes! Was it the pin connector thing ?
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Yes:
The two green wires needed 12v. One to activate the fuel pump relay, red/white wire, (which I was using a go around for) and the other to turn the ECU on.Â
Black is starter which is hooked up to the C101.
Ordered a huge Z3M 3 row mishi last night to keep it cool. Hoping to get it on the road Sunday and have the bugs worked out for the fall meet.
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I know those feels. I hope to see the car this weekend!
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Nice work man! One step closer is always a good feeling
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Alternator is pumping out energy now, not leaking a drop of anything, motor running smooth, and making progress on some of the data going to the cluster.
Bad news, mainly is the brakes sink to the floor and don't come back up. Im thinking it could be A. air in the lines. B a bad master cylinder (no leaking though) or C the spring to return the E30 brake isn't strong enough for the new setup.
Other than that small stuff and busy work getting the car put back together.
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obviously you havent driven the car, but can you tell if the brakes are engaging? does the pedal build pressure or does it just go flat to the floor?
are you sure the return spring on the remote booster setup is in the correct position? all hinge points on the remote setup greased and not binding?
i dont know if this helps, but when we picked up the junk e34, the brake pedal did not have an issue (rock solid when the car was not running, and we used the brakes for moving the car around) so hopefully that eliminates the master cylinder from your list of possibilities. although i recall paint missing from a leak near the front of the booster, but that probably was the seals to the reservoir.
Dan
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Car is running. I just didn't feel comfortable leaving my driveway so I have it some power and hit the brake. It seemed to build pressure at the end - car stopped by using the brake barely - but was at the very end of travel and didn't return.
If I am recalling correctly I had no problem with the brake before fluid. I could hit the brake and it would return. That was me just seeing if the linkage was working. Spring is installed on booster bracket correctly and I can't spot any binding.
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Try rebleeding. I like to hit the easy stuff first
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Yep, that is the plan for tonight. If that doesn't work check the inside of the booster for fluid as I believe that is where it could be leaking?
My brakes are turning into a project of their own. I am waiting to install my coils to install the BBK and I want to clean up some of the plumbing. I am hoping to get it running as is, then take it down for a weekend or over winter and get everything how I want it.
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