Any turbo E36's?
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I have a turbo S52 in my e30. It's on jack stands right now so you can see up her skirt.
I can also tell you what needs attention to make it a reliable daily driver since I have broken hopefully all of the weak points of the M5X/S5X platform.
Located in Whitefish Bay.
@DrLeadFoot
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Yea Drleadfoot, any advice is appreciated. I'm leaning towards the hx35 for a turbo, not set on tuning, but I've started looking into megasquirt 3. Until something breaks, I plan to run low boost. Then I'll rebuild and put some money into making it a reliable street car.
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The number 1 thing is to weld or safety wire your oil pump nut.
@DrLeadFoot
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I'll look into safety wiring the nut.
I'll pass on the h1c. From what ive read it has a very slow/late spool. Hx35 is supposed to be much faster
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I'm not sure that I trust the safety wire fix, it would still allow the nut to loosen slightly until the wire restrained it and cause a fatigue failure of the shaft like the DR had. I tack welded mine when I rebuilt the engine 5 years ago.
I could be wrong but I think the drilled nut is not correct for this application.
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I'll look into safety wiring the nut.
I'll pass on the h1c. From what ive read it has a very slow/late spool. Hx35 is supposed to be much faster
Its the exhaust housing chachi. Same shit. I would get a bep .70 or something, and pick up a cheap hx35/hy35/hx40/h1c to put it with, and do a 50$ rebuild(not on mine)
sk8 or die
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So I am thinking about trying to free up some horsepower as well as clean up some of my engine bay. So I am thinking about removing some emissions stuff since this is an obd 1 1993 325i m50tu motor. What can I all remove that is not necessary? Is there a forum thread somewhere covering that?
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There really isn't much to take off, these engines have no EGR (although a prperly functioning EGR will not hurt power). No smog pump until obd2. That is what I love about these engines, there isn't really anything that isn't necessary for simple fuel injection. No horsepower gains to removing things like charcoal canister, only higher emissions and wasted fuel from evaporating into the atmosphere rather than being caught and burned later.
Something you can do is remove the mechanical fan and fan clutch, This can be done safely by swapping the temp switch on the passenger side of the radiator with the part for the same year 318i. They are about 30$ This frees up some room and lets the engine rev easier.
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I may remove that canister. As of now I already have a mishimoto aluminum radiator, fan delete mod, aluminum water pump and thermostat housing, just bought an electric puller fan, and trying to track down an aluminum coolant reservoir.
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Why? There is no benefit to removing the charcoal canister. The fuel tank needs to vent somewhere or it will build pressure or vacuum from heat/cold, driving and using the fuel etc. The charcoal canister just traps the gasoline fumes so they don't get wasted.
Sounds like a nice setup, do you have the Stewart water pump too?
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I thought about removing simply to clean up my engine bay a little bit.
I do not have a stewart pump. As of now a stock one works just fine. I'll worry about spending $200 on that pump when my stock metal propeller one can't keep up
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