Any turbo E36's?
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Do you guys think I should track down a set of s50/S52 cams for it as well right away? I was thinking the turbo would be plenty of power up front, so I shouldn't need to worry about them. Plus that would save me another $400 I could put towards my turbo budget. I figured once I had to rebuild or install a new head gasket, I would install new cams at that point.
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I put a turbo kit on my e36 this winter. Using an obx top mount manifold, Tial 44mm, and an hx40. With the obx manifold, and a t4 exhaust housing, You will be able to clear the stock hood.
Just use megasquirt from the start. If I were you, That would be the first thing I would do. Learn how to tune( ITS EXTREMELY EASY WITH MEGASQUIRT) and then tackle the turbo hardware install. Thats the easy part. Anyone can install a turbo kit... its very easy.
I would suggest an intercooler with around a 3" thick core and 18" wide core.
By the way I have that OBX manifold if you would like to buy it. Also have a cast bottom mount in a t3 footprint.
I have an h1c(hx35 compressor wheel with an 18cm t3 divided) if you want it as well?
You can buy the tial from me as well haha.
I recently bought my first shop(house included) so my personal projects are pushed to the side for a while.
sk8 or die
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And really don't waste your time with cams. A much better upgrade for the money would be putting that money into your fuel system. If their is anyway to run e85, DO IT. Its like gods fuel with these motors. 10.5:1 and you can run 25lbs of boost(on stock bottom end) no problem with the proper head sealing.
Meth works wonders too. But really your first limitation is detonation with pump gas. which happens pretty quick. I wouldn't boost with pump gas only on that high of compression to be honest.
sk8 or die
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Well I don't think i could put my intercooler right between the radiator and engine. Too tight of a fit. I haven't really given much thought to a t3 vs t4 manifold. Suggestions?
I think I'll pass on the h1c, I'm thinking it'll spool too slow for what I'm looking for. I just might be interested in the manifold and wastegate, pm me asking prices. One i finish my sti swap on my forester xt, then I'll start getting parts for the 325i.
Once my head gasket goes I was planning a .140 mls to lower the compression ratio a little.
I may look into getting megasquirt first, installing it, and seeing what I can do with my stock motor first. I'll have to do some reading on the install and how to make adjustments
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Personally I would go t3, but I would also never buy a garret or precision or whatever, but a gt35 and this obx with a .8-1 ar t4 open would be dandy.
T4 holsluts are big.
And yea that's a 4" core and I was doing remote mount radiator... Nothing fit up front.
I was just suggesting a nice size core that fits with e36
sk8 or die
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Yea I was leaning towards a t3 manifold. Most likely going with an hx35 or an eBay gt35 until I get the extra funds together for the real deal.
I have been reading on E85 on a FI application on our motors and do see positive things. How much mileage decrease do you expect while being tuned on E85? I love my 29mpg hwy. Haha.
I'm thinking a t3 obx top mount manifold, hx35, 6-8psi, with 42lb injectors, to start and get it running good. Aim for 325-350hp. Then when I have to replace the head gasket or rebuild the motor, I'll switch to an E85 setup to run higher boost safer. Also adding an enormous amount of power. If I'm not mistaken, a stock 10.5:1 motor with an hx35, about 15psi boost, 1000cc injectors, walboro 255, and E85 should get me in the 450-500hp range. Am I correct in that estimation?
Also for anyone running E85, what kind of O rings, hoses, and seals do you guys run?
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I have a turbo S52 in my e30. It's on jack stands right now so you can see up her skirt.
I can also tell you what needs attention to make it a reliable daily driver since I have broken hopefully all of the weak points of the M5X/S5X platform.
Located in Whitefish Bay.
@DrLeadFoot
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Yea Drleadfoot, any advice is appreciated. I'm leaning towards the hx35 for a turbo, not set on tuning, but I've started looking into megasquirt 3. Until something breaks, I plan to run low boost. Then I'll rebuild and put some money into making it a reliable street car.
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The number 1 thing is to weld or safety wire your oil pump nut.
@DrLeadFoot
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I'll look into safety wiring the nut.
I'll pass on the h1c. From what ive read it has a very slow/late spool. Hx35 is supposed to be much faster
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I'm not sure that I trust the safety wire fix, it would still allow the nut to loosen slightly until the wire restrained it and cause a fatigue failure of the shaft like the DR had. I tack welded mine when I rebuilt the engine 5 years ago.
I could be wrong but I think the drilled nut is not correct for this application.
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I'll look into safety wiring the nut.
I'll pass on the h1c. From what ive read it has a very slow/late spool. Hx35 is supposed to be much faster
Its the exhaust housing chachi. Same shit. I would get a bep .70 or something, and pick up a cheap hx35/hy35/hx40/h1c to put it with, and do a 50$ rebuild(not on mine)
sk8 or die
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So I am thinking about trying to free up some horsepower as well as clean up some of my engine bay. So I am thinking about removing some emissions stuff since this is an obd 1 1993 325i m50tu motor. What can I all remove that is not necessary? Is there a forum thread somewhere covering that?
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There really isn't much to take off, these engines have no EGR (although a prperly functioning EGR will not hurt power). No smog pump until obd2. That is what I love about these engines, there isn't really anything that isn't necessary for simple fuel injection. No horsepower gains to removing things like charcoal canister, only higher emissions and wasted fuel from evaporating into the atmosphere rather than being caught and burned later.
Something you can do is remove the mechanical fan and fan clutch, This can be done safely by swapping the temp switch on the passenger side of the radiator with the part for the same year 318i. They are about 30$ This frees up some room and lets the engine rev easier.
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I may remove that canister. As of now I already have a mishimoto aluminum radiator, fan delete mod, aluminum water pump and thermostat housing, just bought an electric puller fan, and trying to track down an aluminum coolant reservoir.
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Why? There is no benefit to removing the charcoal canister. The fuel tank needs to vent somewhere or it will build pressure or vacuum from heat/cold, driving and using the fuel etc. The charcoal canister just traps the gasoline fumes so they don't get wasted.
Sounds like a nice setup, do you have the Stewart water pump too?
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