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  4. Well crap :(

Well crap :(

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General Technical
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  • X
    X
    xgeetx
    wrote on last edited by
    #31

    KaiserRolls said:

    You might not want the fenders. We rolled them. With a hammer. And a forklift. So. Yep. Maybe some parts are salvageable. But most certainly not the areas we hit with a hammer. Or. A huge forklift.

    Earl more or less explained rolling fenders... how does a forklift work into that process?

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRolls
      wrote on last edited by
      #32

      Well. Put the forks on the roof. Drop the forks. And slam it to the earth to get the stock bottlecaps to tuck. Having basically zero rear suspension helps as well.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • X
        X
        xgeetx
        wrote on last edited by
        #33

        Wouldn't that be really bad for the roof?

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • EarlE
          EarlE
          Earl
          wrote on last edited by
          #34

          Its a parts car. The car is being stripped and sold scrapped after everything useable is gone. The rear end got hit and Jake bought it for the motor

          museum sig 2earl.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • jc43089J
            jc43089J
            jc43089
            wrote on last edited by
            #35

            I also just remembered I have a headlight you can have for free, just let me know.  No sidemarker/turn signal though

            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • 6670charger6
              6670charger6
              6670charger
              wrote on last edited by
              #36

              Hate to say it, but on a car this age, unless you're absolutely in love with and devoted to this particular car, you're probably better off junking it and getting another. Maybe use this one for parts for the new one. 

              I know where you're at, and would feel the same way about my other car if this happened to it, but, I'd have to make the same decision.

              88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

              66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

              Appleton, WI

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • X
                X
                xgeetx
                wrote on last edited by
                #37

                Having trouble crow barring the hood open... any tips on how to manually pop a fucked up a hood?

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • I love my E39I
                  I love my E39I
                  I love my E39
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #38

                  Hack saw it. you can always use hood pins later. Or replace the support beam

                  Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

                  -Because Racecar-

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • X
                    X
                    xgeetx
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #39

                    Got the hood open!

                    The radiator expansion tank is completely busted, which now makes me think that my "hoping" the smoke/steam was washer fluid may have been an overheated engine after all :(. Which also means I'm a freaking idiot for thinking I could drive it off the freeway lol. I guess I was frantic.

                    The radiator itself looks fine from the angle I can see it... the upper and lower hose connections look good and the aluminum "fins?" themselves don't have any coolant on them. The fan has some broken fins, so i'm not sure if that force pushed hard into the water pump. As you guys guessed, the core support/ radiator mount definitely need replaced. I'm not entirely sure about the bumper... it looks fine but where it mounts on the passenger side would probably need welded or something.

                    Also, related to Earl's picture earlier, I think the fender mount is bent at the very end of the bar... not sure how fixable that is. It's not looking good guys :(

                    Anybody have an extra expansion tank so that when I get a lot of the front pieces off I can at least start it up and see how it does, or is that a lost cause? As you can tell, I'm not exactly sure what the best "approach" is in this situation, and I don't want to waste too much money at a mechanic if I'm just going car shopping this weekend.

                    Edit: Which temperature sensor sends information to the cluster gauge? I know there is a sensor on the passenger side of the radiator... that one is completely busted... but now I'm wondering if the engine temp is fed from a different sensor. Although the expansion tank was totally destroyed, the car never left 12 o'clock temperature...

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #40

                      The one on the side of the radiator is for the aux electric fan in front of the radiator and A/C condenser.  Only about 30$ for one.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • X
                        X
                        xgeetx
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #41

                        jc43089 said:

                        The one on the side of the radiator is for the aux electric fan in front of the radiator and A/C condenser.  Only about 30$ for one.

                        Okay, thanks. So the one for my temperature gauge is actually on the engine? If my temp. stayed at operating temp the whole time, should I be safe with regards to an overheat or is it just too hard to say?

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #42

                          You are quite possibly fine, the temp sender for the gauge and ecu are both in the head itself, they are on the intake side below the intake ports around cylinder 2.  I forget what year your car is but obd1 has 2 separate sensors, obd2 has both in one sensor.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • X
                            X
                            xgeetx
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #43

                            Separate sensors for what? 1 for gauge and 1 for ecu? Mine is 1998 so obd2 I think.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #44

                              Yours is OBD2. He means you have one sensor that talks to both the gauge and the ecu. OBD1 has two sensors. One talks to only the gauge and the other only talks to the ECU. If your gauge stayed at 12 o'clock you did not overheat your car.

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • jc43089J
                                jc43089J
                                jc43089
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #45

                                Yes, the obd2 sensor has 4 pins on the connector, you are obd2 in '98.  The obd1 has 2 different sensors right next to each other, one has 1 pin and the other has 2.  I have an Autometer water temp gauge so I replaced the gauge sender in the head with that one, I leave the stock sender plugged in hanging in the area behind the oil filter housing to roughly measure underhood temps.

                                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • X
                                  X
                                  xgeetx
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #46

                                  Thanks guys. Earl, I'm going to post some more pics tonight to show the damage to that fender mount area. Also the piece of metal that wraps over where the strut bolts in and comes down to the front of the wheel well is pretty messed up in the corner. I don't think it affected the tire or suspension, but that may also be something that can't easily be repaired. When I post them, if you could give me a best guess that'd be great :D

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