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  4. E36 Scrape/Squealing sound when coasting in gear

E36 Scrape/Squealing sound when coasting in gear

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #5

    The most important question is whether it follows engine RPMs or MPH?

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • X
      X
      xgeetx
      wrote on last edited by
      #6

      Hmmmm i will try to test that on my commute home and let you know. I'll listen to it in 3rd and shift down to second and see what happens.

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      • I
        I
        industrialsized
        wrote on last edited by
        #7

        i would guess trans output shaft bearing or cross shaft bushing but thats probably not what you wanted to hear

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        • B
          B
          B C
          wrote on last edited by
          #8

          the throwout bearing receives thrust loading when you press the clutch pedal and it sandwiches against the pressure plate.

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          • X
            X
            xgeetx
            wrote on last edited by
            #9

            Does any part of the clutch take extra load right when acceleration stops but car remains in gear (and the car rapidly starts decellerating)?

            It didn't sound like it mattered what RPM's were.... just speed. But it's hard to tell over all the engine noise when I mash the gas or downshift. Definitely increases frequency of the oscillation noise when i go faster. Can't tell if the sound is gone at interstate speeds or there are just too many other noises to notice :(.

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            • X
              X
              xgeetx
              wrote on last edited by
              #10

              industrialsized said:

              i would guess trans output shaft bearing or cross shaft bushing but thats probably not what you wanted to hear

              I would much rather know what it is, than not know what it is! How impossible is transmission work for a DIY'er?

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              • I
                I
                industrialsized
                wrote on last edited by
                #11

                a zf for your car can be had for around 200 + fluids +clutch +mount + center support bearing +time you can do it in your driveway in a day so song as you have some basic hand tools and an external torques set. Cracking open and rebuilding a zf is not the hardest thing but its tinkery and the parts cost mucho dollars plus the housing tends to wear maybe your lucky and it's the center support bearing or a u joint on the prop shaft any vibration when you give her full bean? i would say put it up on some jack stands and see if you can get it to make the sound in the air then set the cruse or find a friend and pinpoint the issue

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                • X
                  X
                  xgeetx
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #12

                  industrialsized said:

                  a zf for your car can be had for around 200 + fluids +clutch +mount + center support bearing +time you can do it in your driveway in a day so song as you have some basic hand tools and an external torques set. Cracking open and rebuilding a zf is not the hardest thing but its tinkery and the parts cost mucho dollars plus the housing tends to wear maybe your lucky and it's the center support bearing or a u joint on the prop shaft any vibration when you give her full bean? i would say put it up on some jack stands and see if you can get it to make the sound in the air then set the cruse or find a friend and pinpoint the issue

                  Luckily I do currently have the money and time to repair if I want to, the question is whether or not it's going to be worth it. I've already sunk some money into it and I don't know how much more I want to put in :(. But I Love this car, so I'll probably go for it.

                  Is it safe to put it on jack stands and run the car? I've never done that, tbh....

                  By the way, noticed this morning that the sound is WORST in reverse. Also, in reverse it doesn't matter if I start to press the gas pedal -- the sound doesn't go away like it does in other gears.

                  Thanks for all the help!

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                  • R
                    R
                    Rowleym
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #13

                    xgeetx said:

                    Luckily I do currently have the money and time to repair if I want to, the question is whether or not it's going to be worth it. I've already sunk some money into it and I don't know how much more I want to put in :(. But I Love this car, so I'll probably go for it.

                    Is it safe to put it on jack stands and run the car? I've never done that, tbh....

                    By the way, noticed this morning that the sound is WORST in reverse. Also, in reverse it doesn't matter if I start to press the gas pedal -- the sound doesn't go away like it does in other gears.

                    Thanks for all the help!

                    How much cheaper could a transmission that is incredibly robust cost? My brother picked up 2 for 200$ from Dons sportcars. You should check them out. They will have everything you need. 

                    Wait a minute is your car clean? Its junk Sell it for cheap. ;)

                    328's are the best.

                    96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                    sk8 or die

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • X
                      X
                      xgeetx
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #14

                      Haha, I actually deep cleaned it and threw in new floor mats 2 weeks ago :P I went without floor mats for a very long time. I'm ashamed.

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • X
                        X
                        xgeetx
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #15

                        Rowleym said:

                        How much cheaper could a transmission that is incredibly robust cost? My brother picked up 2 for 200$ from Dons sportcars. You should check them out. They will have everything you need. 

                        Wait a minute is your car clean? Its junk Sell it for cheap. ;)

                        328's are the best. 

                        Is that a salvage yard? Was it a used transmission then?

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • R
                          R
                          Rowleym
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #16

                          xgeetx said:

                          How much cheaper could a transmission that is incredibly robust cost? My brother picked up 2 for 200$ from Dons sportcars. You should check them out. They will have everything you need. 

                          Wait a minute is your car clean? Its junk Sell it for cheap. ;)

                          328's are the best. 

                          Is that a salvage yard? Was it a used transmission then?

                          Used with 100k on them. Yea it's a salvage parts place. Can't really go in the yard unless you know what's up.

                          Nothing wrong with used items like zf trans.

                          96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                          sk8 or die

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • X
                            X
                            xgeetx
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #17

                            I will definitely look into them. How would I isolate the transmission as the true issue? Pop in with a stethoscope (or are those things a joke :P?). I'm also willing to just take it to a mechanic for inspection, but I always like to do the work myself.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • patsbimmer1P
                              patsbimmer1P
                              patsbimmer1
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #18

                              I LOVE my stethoscope!  When I was in a shop that thing was magic!  I got teased ever time I pulled it out but it worked and that shut everyone up lol.

                              2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                              07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                              97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                              95 325is *sold*
                              93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                              BMWCCA #473306

                              Instagram @patsbimmer1

                              AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                              "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • X
                                X
                                xgeetx
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #19

                                patsbimmer1 said:

                                I LOVE my stethoscope!  When I was in a shop that thing was magic!  I got teased ever time I pulled it out but it worked and that shut everyone up lol.  

                                Think it'd help in this case? Do I buy one of the mechanic ones for like $15 then point it against transmission while someone is pushing gas pedal?

                                Is it safe to run back wheels in 1st/2nd while it's up on jack stands?

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • patsbimmer1P
                                  patsbimmer1P
                                  patsbimmer1
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #20

                                  It's perfectly fine to jack it up and run it.  Just take every safety step you can to make sure it won't come down.  I usually put all four wheels in the air on jack stands because I am a bit paranoid but it is alright to put 2 jack stands in the back and chock the front wheels.  I usually put the stands under the LCA's in back.

                                  The $15 stethoscope works just fine for this job and you just move it around on the case until you think you have pinpointed your noise.  I always listened without it first then with and compared noises.  You may not need anyone pushing the pedal unless it is at a certain rpm/mph.  Once you put it in gear the wheels will spin.

                                  2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                  07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                  97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                  95 325is *sold*
                                  93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                  BMWCCA #473306

                                  Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                  AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                  "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • X
                                    X
                                    xgeetx
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #21

                                    patsbimmer1 said:

                                    It's perfectly fine to jack it up and run it.  Just take every safety step you can to make sure it won't come down.  I usually put all four wheels in the air on jack stands because I am a bit paranoid but it is alright to put 2 jack stands in the back and chock the front wheels.  I usually put the stands under the LCA's in back.

                                    The $15 stethoscope works just fine for this job and you just move it around on the case until you think you have pinpointed your noise.  I always listened without it first then with and compared noises.  You may not need anyone pushing the pedal unless it is at a certain rpm/mph.  Once you put it in gear the wheels will spin.

                                    You don't need to apply gas in 1st to stop it from dying? I guess that makes sense since it has no car to push... never thought of that.

                                    I only have 2 jack stands... would it be it worth it to grab 2 more for this, you think? For some reason I picture 4 stands as less safe than 2 :P Do I chock both sides of the front wheels to be safest? Never had to jack up the rear, and when doing the front I always had E-brake and in gear so chocking the back I never second guessed.

                                    Is there a reason you use the control arms instead of the sides under the jack points?

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • patsbimmer1P
                                      patsbimmer1P
                                      patsbimmer1
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #22

                                      I like have all 4 wheels off the ground anytime I work on the car for clearance and safety.  With all 4 off the ground I can give the car a SOLID hip check and it won't move.  If you are only going to lift the back I would put a chock front and back of at least one wheel.  That's how I have done it and I have never had an issue.

                                      2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                      07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                      97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                      95 325is *sold*
                                      93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                      BMWCCA #473306

                                      Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                      AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                      "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • X
                                        X
                                        xgeetx
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #23

                                        Hmmm well I like safety. We're working on my GF's exhaust soon, and we could barely get under with only the back or the front popped up. I think $26 for more stands would be well worth it. Good tips, thank you.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #24

                                          I would recommend a pair of 6 ton stands, the footprint is much larger and more stable then the smaller 3 ton stands, I have 2x 6 ton stands and use 2x 3 ton stands so it is more stable when yanking on wrenches etc underneath.  They can be gotten at for not much more cost and saving a few bucks won't matter much if a car falls on you.

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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