E46 M3 in Whitefish Bay
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I was lucky and didnt have any cracks yet. Sounds like youve got a lot done. Getting the bushings out is probably the worst of it (was for me anyway). The epoxy worked great on mine. What bushings did you end up going with? Nice seeing someone else tackle the sub reinforcement diy. Kudos to you.
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Bimmerworld aluminum bushings. Had a bad experience with the Poly PF subframe bushings on my 330 so I'm going solid.
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The engine was rebuilt 10k miles ago, everything looked fine. Its something I'll do later this year or next year.
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The engine was rebuilt 10k miles ago, everything looked fine. Its something I'll do later this year or next year.
What you really need to do is put a turbo on it....
But really.
Do you have solid diff bushings as well? I was told to use solid subframe bushings, spherical rtabs, and some poly for the diff bushings. This will be a multipurpose track car though ("drift", and hopefully autox)
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Nope, OE diff and RTABS w/limiters.
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School me on locking down the vanos please.
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My subframe nightmare:
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I haven't seen this yet!
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Thanks Dastuz! I've got everything I need...except for a solution to get the cracks welded up. Damned apartment with its underground garage and sloped outdoor parking.
WiscoE90...my car is anything but discreet. I'm glad the cops haven't gotten mad with the volume. I have gotten some dirty looks from local Prius drivers.
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someone said:
School me on locking down the vanos please.
The VANOS will develop a rattle...more annoying than potentially fatal. Most street cars will want to address this.
BUT...there are a couple of issues which are potentially fatal to the engine
1. Exhaust hub tabs break - a Besian oil pump disk may help
2. Cam bolts strip and back out - replace with updated OE bolts
3. OEM belt tensioner breaks - replace with OE part
4. High pressure oil line to VANOS fails - replace with Bimmerworld line
You can check #1 and #3 when you do a valve adjustment. #2 requires you to remove the VANOS.
The exhaust hub failure seems to be very hit and miss.
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