Cosmos Resurrection
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I ran into my first problem Sunday. I knew it was not going to go all smooth and easy.
As it turns out my 8/84 build date for my 533i uses the old style diff mount that was used on the E12 and 633's. All I need as a newer style diff cover.
The 533 also uses a different sway bar in the rear. I think I can remove and weld the brackets to make it work. If I cannot I will be looking for a rear sway bar also.
Things are not going as quick as I had planned. Have been working more hours the last few weeks and less time in the shop. I will make it to the meet but it may be in my Battle Bimmer (Seta aka Niles).
I sure hope this does not turn into a "Winter Project" but if it does I will change the way it is going back together. Right now I am not painting everything like I would like to, just cleaning. This may change.
Still stripping the 533i and hope to get it out of the shop soon. I am taking everything I can off of it for spare parts before going BMW heaven.
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I should have an extra 528e sway bar somewhere. i dont know the differences on the brackets though but mine would be off a '86.
I have to do some checking. I am not sure if the sway bar is different but I know the brackets are. 82 - 9/84 had a different mount. I will get a few pics tomorrow night.
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I made some progress last night. I finally got everything set up for the pull.
The the beast came out. The M30 is huge. I does not look that big in the engine bay. I love all 3.4 liters.
I also picked up a used M5 clutch and pressure plate from TDC that will be going in and I will be keeping the old for a spare. The current clutch was replace 4,700 miles ago and is still like new
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I am not sure and have not researched to see if it has been done. It just seemed easier to drop the trans first. I was going to chop the radiator support out and pull both together but I could not take a saw to the car even if it is going to the yard. That's just me.
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Dont scrap the core support, could sell that for $100 if its clean.
From what ive ready on mye28 its pretty difficult to get the m30 with trans in/out. Motor is much taller than a M20, needs more swing down low.
Mike the garage looks great! Must've sold the trans am and i like that plate on the wall
that hoist is a tank. -
Mike the garage looks great! Must've sold the trans am and i like that plate on the wall
that hoist is a tank.I pulled my first engine over 30 years ago with that hoist in my dad's shop. They don't make them like that anymore.
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Dont scrap the core support, could sell that for $100 if its clean.
From what ive ready on mye28 its pretty difficult to get the m30 with trans in/out. Motor is much taller than a M20, needs more swing down low.
Mike the garage looks great! Must've sold the trans am and i like that plate on the wall
that hoist is a tank.Where do I cut to make it usable?
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If you look at the parts diagram you can see how it should be cut off. Basically it will be flat across the back as you should cut it where it meets the inner fender.
Also I'd like the rear shift plate support off this! I could bring a dremel if you dont have one.
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If you look at the parts diagram you can see how it should be cut off. Basically it will be flat across the back as you should cut it where it meets the inner fender.
Also I'd like the rear shift plate support off this! I could bring a dremel if you dont have one.
I have a cutoff wheel that should work. I have not had much time but I should be able to get it off by Saturday. I will let you know.
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Do you still plan to have this car running and driving for the meet Saturday?
I wish
Responsibility has kept me out of the garage. I am working my butt off to keep it from becoming a winter project. All is good though. I have some transmission seals ordered. Once I drop the suspension and get the cosmos in the work bay it will all be downhill. Working with 30 year old rusted bolts is a challenge to say the least. PB blaster and time have made it possible.
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If you look at the parts diagram you can see how it should be cut off. Basically it will be flat across the back as you should cut it where it meets the inner fender.
Also I'd like the rear shift plate support off this! I could bring a dremel if you dont have one.
I did get the support off last night.
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A mixture of acetone and ATF works very well for loosening bolts, and is cheap.
The input seal and the shift rod seal on the trans is easy to do, the output shaft you need to pull the flange off, follow torque specs carefully when reinstalling, it is preloading the output shaft bearing.
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A mixture of acetone and ATF works very well for loosening bolts, and is cheap.
The input seal and the shift rod seal on the trans is easy to do, the output shaft you need to pull the flange off, follow torque specs carefully when reinstalling, it is preloading the output shaft bearing.
Just got my Snap-On torque wrench calibrated for this swap. I was disappointed at the cost of $70. It did not feel right and that is why I sent it in. They did not state any repairs on the invoice but if feels spot on again
. I have used this same wrench for over 30 years and I don't know when my dad actually purchased it. We have always treated it with "kid gloves" and has worked great. I believe this is the first time it has been back to Snap-On.Thanks for the nut buster info. I have not heard of that before but am willing to try it. I think I have everything covered for this job but you know how that goes.
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Way to many things to list. I want to get it running soon but I am not in a hurry. Now that I have the room I need to give the 528e "Niles" some TLC. I plan upper control arms, diff mount and CSB just to keep it riding well. I have all the parts so it's just a matter of time. I just picked up a set of 15" BBS style ?? with really good tires. It rides like a totally different car!
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