TehRaydarlover's AWD lover
-
I been wanting to make a build/progress thread for a while so here it is. I haven't done much work on the actual car, just collecting/cleaning parts for future plans. I still am not 100% sure what I to do for the engine. The m20 stays and I bought an e36 m3 crank for the 89.6mm stroke but as far as boost/NA goes I don't know what to think. I really like NA but I also like a lot of power. The bottom end is going to be forged regardless, s52 crank & rods then a set of custom pistons (maybe JE or MM). The unknown I have are the bore diameter (86mm maybe) and compression ratio for boost/NA. idk maybe build a lower cr NA with the option of running low boost. Another problem with a lot of power with the ix is the drivetrain handling the power.
Here is a small list of what I have managed to obtain:
s52 crank
New IE HD rocker arms
New stock valve springs (not sure if I want to use them they came with the rocker arms)
ARP head studs
Extended spline length front drive shafts52 rods
I also have a lot of spares for the drivetrain if things decide to break:
front diff x3
oil pan x3
front drive shaft x3
rear drive shaft
front cv shafts x2 sets
transmission
transfer case
rear diffThings I want/need to obtain/decide on:
MegasquirtCam??
Piston size??
Front diff upgrade??
GC ix coilovers
Alpina rims
New paint
A lot of other things I don't want to think about now lolI love these pics
So those are my thoughts for the long term here is what I have been up to recently:
Over christmas break I tore down my spare ix m20 and found the oil intermediate shaft bearing was mangled. I picked up a new inner bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 264 196) from pelican. I had a lot of trouble finding a new outer bearing bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 280 863). All of the dealerships I went to said the bearing was on back order from Germany and they didn't know when or if they would become available. All of the online sights I usually go to (Blunt, Pelecan, Turner, Bravauto) all said it had to be special ordered, out of stock, or NLA. After some searching I found http://eeuroparts.com they showed in being available from their warehouse. I ordered two and after a little over a month they finally showed up, yay!
With the increased stroke of the s52 crank the rotating assembly just kisses the oil intermediate shaft. I don't know how much the shaft needs to be machined down so for now I just cleaned up the casting a little. Hopefully it will be enough, if not oh well another reason to be in the machine shop.
Old fubar outer bearing
Lathe love
New bearings and machined oil intermediate shaft
S52 crank I picked up for $225 shipped from cali. Shitty pic but the crank looks great.
With the s52 crank and m20 you need an oil seal spacer. Thing is like $200 from MM & IE or $50 from someone on r3v. I like my money so I made one myself fo free.99
Disassembled my spare set of front ix breaks
Sandblasted said front breaks:
Rebuild a set of front axles. These things were a real PITA. There is a c clip that you have to spread and then pull off the head of the axle. It is literally impossible to do. So I cut one end of the clip off and pulled it through. Even then I had to beat the shit out of it to get the head to slide off the axle.
I sand blasted the heads and repainted them. #showcar
Also had to order new axle nuts. Went to concours and got the part number but they wanted too much so I ordered a used set off ebay.
After pressing the extended spline head into the drive shaft I took it to A1 drive shaft, they want $60 to weld the head on. idk seems kind steep for just welding it. They said they had never seen anything like it and couldn't guarantee it would be strait or the weld would be good because they didn't know what kind of metal shaft is, I have a material cert and welding instructions for the head. I don't think straightness would be a problem because the head is pressed into the shaft but idk I'm no expert.
That's all for now.
Ray
-
Look great, Any idea what happened to the intermediate shaft bearing? Did it run without oil?
And what is the toothed ring for on the flywheel end of the crank?
How far does the splined drive shaft end extend into the drive shaft? If it an inch or more and it has to be pressed in I wouldn't worry about runout/balancing issues as long as they weld in alternating spots until it is tacked thoroughly.
-
Thanks,
I have no idea what happened to the bearing, I bought just the short block and never ran it. Looks like it wasn't getting any oil for some reason, but the rest of the engine looked fine. I'm thinking the oil passage got plugged somehow. The inner bearing is in good shape so you would think if the engine was run with no oil it would be messed up too. Makes me think it was a local problem.
I believe the toothed ring is for the s52 crank position sensor. Not sure if its going to interfere in the m20. It unbolts from the crank but that might mess with the balance of the crank.
Yeah I would think that it would be fine. I forget how far it is pressed in, I think a good 1-1.5". This is the setup someone else did to weld it:
-
Yeah Idk, real oem says its an "impulse sending wheel" I assume for the cps.
-
The S52's have that on the driver's side of the engine block 3in or so from the back of the block.
Great work! I'd go turbo but get a correct size/fan for a horsepower powerband and not a torquey one. Todd (TCD on here) helped me with that and he did a perfect job looking out for the path I wanted to take. I didn't for for the high torque to try to save my rear suspension / drivetrain.
I think I know the area where you live and I always try to drop it down to 2nd and open her up when I see your car parked. #livinguptomyname
@DrLeadFoot
-
Thanks.
Yeah, I have very little knowledge on sizing turbochargers, my friend told me to read Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.
Ha whenever I hear someone with a loud exhaust drive by I'm usually at the window like,"WHERE ARE YOU"
I'm about a block off Brady St. if you ever see me working on my car you should stop by.
-
I know where you're at. I didn't want to come off like a total stalker. You'll hear me around 7:30am tomorrow! The M3 will be your alarm clock.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Ha you'll have to give her the beans! I'm a pretty heavy sleeper.
-
It was more like 7:15. I couldn't give it to the full potential due to the beans being cold.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
It was more like 7:15. I couldn't give it to the full potential due to the beans being cold.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Hit the sirens
-
Me waking up this morning
Expectation:
Reality:
The neighbors probably wouldn't agree with me that being woken by the god of hellfire would have been more enjoyable that the samsung song of death that is my alarm.
-
hmm for some reason I was under the assumption that s52 rods were forged? Wanted to use them because they are the lightest/strongest(?) 135mm stock rods. I guess some forged h-beams or something wouldn't hurt, just money. With the s52 crank you need custom pistons.
Yeah I was planning on doing the DIYPNP. I just need to do the research on what I want to include as far as extras and how to do it. Then maybe get a little help from someone with the setup and building of it haha.
-
I'm running K1 rods.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
hmm for some reason I was under the assumption that s52 rods were forged? Wanted to use them because they are the lightest/strongest(?) 135mm stock rods. I guess some forged h-beams or something wouldn't hurt, just money. With the s52 crank you need custom pistons.
Yeah I was planning on doing the DIYPNP. I just need to do the research on what I want to include as far as extras and how to do it. Then maybe get a little help from someone with the setup and building of it haha.
s52 rods are one of the best to use! yes!
But because of the custom pistons which of course you need, I was saying why not just do the whole shebang? Not much more expensive at that level.
I actually take that back. If you are running this kind of build, why not go all out and do MS3x? Not much more expensive and I believe its worth it. You can do coil on plug then(with cam sync) and also fully sequential fuel. And tons of other goodies! If you need guidance on what to buy for megasquirt, let me know.
sk8 or die
-
Bit of an update, I noticed that both of my drivers side front cv boots were torn so I decided it was time to swap in the axles I rebuild a while ago. One thing kinda led to another and I ended up replacing a lot of parts.
Got every thing pulled apart. Out with the old and in with the new
Took me two long days to get everything disassembled... break time, off to Europe
5 days in Paris, France
4 day in Luzern, Switzerland
Saw my first touring and it was an ix :') thing was unbelievable must have just been restored. You could perform surgery on the underside of this thing. I tried knocking on the door but no one was home
3 days in Salzburg, Austria
Then finally 3 days in Munich, Germany
Picked up some euro goodies at a junkyard in Munich
THEN THE BMW WELT AND MUSEUM!!!
Another 325ix touring!!
neat
Cleanest m20 ever
Z1
2002
-
The ///M division, I was the first person in the museum because I had to catch my plane to go home, not sure if you are suppose to go up on the platform the cars are on but no one was around so I did haha.
Flying over Greenland
Enough fun back to Minnesota
Cleaning my smileys
Got everything ready to be put back together when I noticed a bit of a problem. Broken subframe bolt
Funny I didn't even notice it broke until I came back from vacation and was ready to put it all back together. The bolt stayed in the subframe when it came down.
I bought an extractor and tried to get the broken subframe bolt out but nothing would work. Soaked it in penetrating oil for 3 days, tried heating it with a torch, nothing... ended up drilling it out and retapping the hole. Put the subframe back on and the new bolt fit perfectly! Thank God! Such a relief seeing I had to drill it out with a hand drill.
Got the new smileys installed and the city lights all wired up after dealing with finding a break in the passengers side wiring.
Got the new front driveshaft all welded and painted
So after all the work I now have rebuilt front axles, new control arms with m3 offset bushings, motor mounts, power steering rack, pump, and reservoir, upper strut mounts, all new belts, euro smileys, German check panel, and new fluids in the front/rear diffs transmission, and transfer case. I also tracked down the broken wire for my oil level sensor so now I have no lights on the dash or check panel! yay
As a reward for all the work I went to a car show and found a 1957 Isetta! So cool!
-
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login