1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels

[jc43089]

Aren't the e30 ball joints replaceable?  I am replacing the ones on my 36, which the inner ones are not supposed to be replaceable, but if I buy replacements for an e30 they are a direct fit.

[andyhundley]

Just buy replacement e30 lemforder control arms on pelicanparts.com.

[andyhundley]

Control arms aren't something you should go cheap on. Especially since your car is slammed and it puts more stress on your ball joints. It would suck to have one let go driving and damage your car/hurt somebody!

[Jdesign]

andyhundley said:

Control arms aren't something you should go cheap on. Especially since your car is slammed and it puts more stress on your ball joints. It would suck to have one let go driving and damage your car/hurt somebody!

I agree with you 100%. 

jc43089 said:

Aren't the e30 ball joints replaceable?  I am replacing the ones on my 36, which the inner ones are not supposed to be replaceable, but if I buy replacements for an e30 they are a direct fit.

I was thinking I might just get new ball-joints and press them in, seems like the safest route.  The BMW castings are the best for these control arms from what I have read, and that leaves me the option to use any ball joints I want.

[jc43089]

Jdesign said:

I was thinking I might just get new ball-joints and press them in, seems like the safest route.  The BMW castings are the best for these control arms from what I have read, and that leaves me the option to use any ball joints I want.

Once it is off of the car any mechanic shop with a hydraulic press can pop the joints out and new ones in for a few bucks.  Saves a lot of messing around.  The right tool makes it a 5 minute job.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Once it is off of the car any mechanic shop with a hydraulic press can pop the joints out and new ones in for a few bucks.  Saves a lot of messing around.  The right tool makes it a 5 minute job.

I have a press at work, I guess I am lazy if I could just buy a whole new part.

[Jdesign]

So I looked over the balljoints again and they are just fine, I only tore the boots removing them. I decided I will just replace the boots and re-grease the joints. Would anyone happen to know what the dimensions of the boots? I was looking into getting something more durable like urethane. I had Energy suspension boots on my civic and they were awesome, I just don't know what size to order. here is a picture for reference:

[RamRod E28]

just get new ball joints they may seem fine now but they're out already so why not??? They're gonna go bad eventually...

[Jdesign]

Ramze46 said:

just get new ball joints they may seem fine now but they're out already so why not??? They're gonna go bad eventually...

Because of the stress it will put on the arms of pushing the ball-joints in and out. Normally that's why its suggested you replace the whole arm. I have factory arms now, I figure I wont be able to find castings as nice unless I get OEM. So why replace them if they don't need it yet. I have always had the mentality of don't replace it unless it's broken or is an upgrade.

Also consider the cost.

$400 on arms that dont need to be replaced < $20 maximum on new boots

[RamRod E28]

Well then get fancier ball joints

[Jdesign]

Ramze46 said:

Well then get fancier ball joints

Still take the risk of stressing the arms then I think I am just gonna put some boots on there, run it, and if shit breaks, deal with it then.

[Jdesign]

So I contacted energy suspension yesterday and provided me with this awesome link:

http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/Universal-Dust-Boots.asp

If you ever want to upgrade your shitty rotted out boots, or happen to tear one like a dumbass( me) this site has all the dimensions of the boots they carry. I found the ones I need, which also fit a 67 ford mustang "Merica." I called the local Oriely's auto parts store and they had them shipped next day for less than what they were listed for on Energy's site. I should be picking them up tonight and finally seeing how retarded low my car will sit. I can already tell I will be able to bury my wheels so far into my car it will look like a hovercraft (perfect). Now its time to start collecting oil pans....

[Jdesign]

Installed the front coils last night. The Dust boots I ordered were a perfect fit! If anyone needs to upgrade their lower outer ball joint boots on an E30 the part number from Energy Suspension is 191725. 

Here is a pic of what it looks like installed

[jc43089]

Cool, excellent find.

[Jdesign]

Installed the coils last night and finally got my car back on the ground. I am really happy with the amount of adjustability. Now I cant wait to actually drive it! I got the steering rack put back in and did a basic string mount alignment. I have an appointment at my buddies work to get it aligned and swap out those terrible rear tires! I hope I can get it a lot lower in the rear after making the adjustments, I know I have about an inch to go in the front. Here is how it sits now

This was a little concerning seeing how close the boot was to the actual strut housing in the rear. Its about 2mm away. I checked compression rate and it seems it will be fine with suspension movement. 

[Jdesign]

So, annoying as hell.

My front drivers side coilover hits the barrel of my front wheel. Only underload (turning left) or when I am reversing? Really odd. After staring at it for hours and taking it apart more than 10 times, have come to realize that flex is the culprit. All the way around the coils are really close to my wheels but this sucks. Guess time to order new adapters. Has anyone else ever had this problem before?

I also noticed that when I had it on the rack, I could not get as much camber from the drivers side wheel as I could from the passenger side. I know that some cars have different geometry from left to right, is that true with E30's? 

Either way I still drove it as the rubbing caused no damage and only occurs when turning left(Good thing I'm not in the Daytona 500). I am really please with the comfort of the BC coils. You would never guess that they are 10-12k rates. Now I just need to weld in the camber tabs in the rear and buy new adapters.

I also removed the majority of the plastidip from my wheels. Never again, unless I have Rotiform Nue's will I plastidip a set of wheels. Does anyone know of a way to remove that stuff without ruining the surface below? I know there is a thing called "dipdissolver" but does it really work?

[Jdesign]

So, I assume with the great weather, no one is on the interwebz anymore

[jc43089]

I think so, I have just been working fast to get back to driving a BMW again instead of the rusty old maxima.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

I think so, I have just been working fast to get back to driving a BMW again instead of the rusty old maxima.

I hear ya. My TDI sucks.

[ClassE]

Acouple things: Something isn't right if you're getting flex/ movement between the coil and wheel when loaded. (They should always stay in the same orientation to one another). Possibly a bad wheel bearing flexing under load?

Do the BC's have upper camber plates? I wouldnt be worried if the camber plates were "off" slightly side-to-side on this age of car.

Why get an alignment if your gonna add in the weld-in camber adjustments? (Or is that weeks/months in the future)?