ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

[Jdesign]

ClassE said:

Parts on Parts on Parts.

How much did this set you back? I am looking for the same thing for my car.

[RamRod E28]

Now all classe needs is a kegerator and he can chauffeur us around the car shows on bags of course and I bought a brand new van as well

[ClassE]

Jdesign said:

How much did this set you back? I am looking for the same thing for my car.

$400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

[ClassE]

Ramze46 said:

Now all classe needs is a kegerator and he can chauffeur us around the car shows on bags of course and I bought a brand new van as well

My wife will likely tail me down to Scooters again - I'll pack the stow-n-go full of B...... Soda!

Last year we slept in the back of her Kia Sorrento, this year she's alittle too pregnant to sleep in a car/tent so we'll be heading home that night.

[ClassE]

Hover car.

What are the 2 wires for in the drivers side front wheel well? Ones a ABS/brake sensor? The other doesn't appear to lead anywhere - it's a 2 wire shielded line that looks looped at the end?

[jc43089]

The one that matches the passenger side is for ABS, the other should be for the brake pad wear sensor, there is only one per axle.

[ClassE]

I don't have a pickle fork to remove the ball joint and tie rod ends - any other way to get them out of the lower strut housing/hub?

Got everything disconnected and unbolted up front - just need to separate ends and pull front suspension! Tomorrow night will hopefully be dropping the rear subframe!

[jc43089]

Oreilly's rents out pickle forks and ball joint removers for free.  Just pay for it when you get it and get the full amount back when you return it.  That's about the only way to get them out.

[wasnt m3]

Pickle forks damage the ball joint boots very easily. Hit the ear on the hub that the ball joint goes through from the side with a BFH, should pop out.

[jc43089]

^ This, only use a pickle fork if you are not planning to reuse the joints.

[ClassE]

I called it a night at that point last night. I'll have a go at it again tonight after work.

It's odd pulling this apart after working on VWs for so long - similar of course but not knowing the nut sizes off the top of my head and trying to "learn the car" makes it a slower process then I'm used to. Tonight is break the ball joint and tie tod ends loose and yank front suspension.... Then heading to rear.

Tracking info shows rims are scheduled to arrive Friday..... I've got a lot of work to do to get the front coils welded up and toe/camber adjustments welded in Saturday and everything re-installed to test fit fitment.

If Oshkosh area peeps are looking for something to do nights this week or Saturday afternoon I'd love the help!

[B C]

just on the topic of balljoint separators

they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly)

best tool for ball joint separation. 

If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.

You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car"

[ClassE]

Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help.

[Earl]

ClassE said:

Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help.

hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call

[Jdesign]

ClassE said:

$400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

Awesome, let us know!

[ClassE]

This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well:

[jc43089]

Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad.  That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads.

[wasnt m3]

The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it.

[Earl]

Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money!

[wasnt m3]

Or just connect the two wires...