'88 E30
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10/18/16 <--- i was there when snap got his name.
on another note, I will stay away from sticky tires and hard launches.
on a 3rd note,
Dan
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Well. It's definitely the drivers side axle. It blew up to the point of separating the cv boot and spewing grease everywhere.
Pic kinda sucks, but there are broken parts everywhere inside the rubber boot.
I'm not sure if it was so much "sticky tires and more hp" I think that definitely helped break it - but these things have 240k on them & lots of hard launches from autox.
Car has LSD, jacked it up from diff, in gear and this was the result (the axle was not moving) hopefully the video posted
Dickered indeed
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That's not curb rash btw. That's farm and fleet tire lube stuff
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Also, rusty calipers/rotors. I blame it being parked outside in the rain for a night.
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So I haven't touched the axle at all because I suck, but I started cleaning up the power steering stuff I'll be installing.
ended up being a LUK pump, so I'm thinking it was maybe replaced on the parts car I got if from at one point? (Thought they were all ZF, I could be mistaken)Other than the 4 inches of grime I scrapped off, the pump is in pretty good shape, just need to order some new lines and then wait for it to leak 5 minutes after installing.
It'll be interesting to see if my current de-powered rack will leak.
Besides fixing the axle never, this winter I want to put a Stewart water pump in and replace the "new last year" $49 graff. I also may go to a lower thermostat as opposed to the 92c I currently have in the car for science purposes.
Also want to install an actual temp gauge as opposed to the stupid e30 gauge that varies by how hard I hit the dash. (Open to recommendations here)
I'll probably end up using the port on the head where the coolant for the throttle body goes as I already have this looped.
Either way this winter should be decent because it's all little piddly shit
Also if anyone wants a rack you can have it, or I'll just make an ATF soaked lamp out of it
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Pull the cluster and tighten the nut on the back of the temp gauge. Not a real gauge like you want but it will improve the reading in the meantime.
Your carnage got me thinking of adding to my spares. Ive been talking to a r3v seller parting a set of axles from his car. Waiting for pics but what I know so far is that they are 200k originals with torn boots on the passenger and worn but not torn on the drivers. Splines supposedly in good shape. We'll see.
Best route from assorted forum chatter seems to be either rebuild the factory axles if the boots are shot (cheap but time and a mess of a job) or pick up GKN Loebro axles (substitute money for time in the high $200s per axle), and avoid the cheaper cardone reman and esp the dirt cheap AZ AAP axles. Anyone have any experience here?
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Pull the cluster and tighten the nut on the back of the temp gauge. Not a real gauge like you want but it will improve the reading in the meantime.
Your carnage got me thinking of adding to my spares. Ive been talking to a r3v seller parting a set of axles from his car. Waiting for pics but what I know so far is that they are 200k originals with torn boots on the passenger and worn but not torn on the drivers. Splines supposedly in good shape. We'll see.
Best route from assorted forum chatter seems to be either rebuild the factory axles if the boots are shot (cheap but time and a mess of a job) or pick up GKN Loebro axles (substitute money for time in the high $200s per axle), and avoid the cheaper cardone reman and esp the dirt cheap AZ AAP axles. Anyone have any experience here?
As far as the nut goes on the cluster, part of me just wants to replace the OEM gauge with an aftermarket temp gauge such as this
As far as GKN blunttech has them at $259 each.
It also seems as though reman is hit or miss, but usually miss.
Honestly with these lasting 240k miles, I wouldn't hesitate to put one in from a parts car. They are easy enough to replace (albeit annoying)
Once I get the motivation back, I am quite interested to see the carnage & will share pics
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Ok. So after work I found some motivation. All in all it took like an hour and a half. So.
Step1:
Beat the axle lock plate off, then removed the axle nut.
Step2:
Jacked the car up
Step3:
Removed exhaust
Step 4:
Forgot that I needed a way to stop the axles from turning.
Step4.5:
Step5:
3/8 ratchet was not enough leverage to remove the axle bolts
Step6:
Grabbed breaker bar with 1/2-3/8
Step7:
Driveshaft was still spinning a bit while trying to loosen
Step 8:
Put in gear
Step8.5:
Added 18mm wrench on flex disc
Step9:
Yes my exhaust was safety wired up
Step9.5:
Don't judge me
Step10:
Remove every axle bolt
Step 11:
Slide axle out
Step12:
Carnage
It blew the boot and the clamp off
I was literally able to pull this apart one handed
^ballz
^hopes and dreams
It literally deformed from the carnage
(Ignore the fibery stuff, from a rag)
Step13:
Anybody have a spare axle?
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Only buy genuine BMW?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1976 530i e12
1990 325ix e30
1992 325i e36
1995 740il e38
2001 330xi e46
^More to come
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As dumb as it may sound, I might just snag a bunch off of parts cars & have spares. If these lasted 240k, I wouldn't have any reservations running other ones. They are easy enough to replace if necessary.
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thanks for the carnage pics. i'm thinking a necklace of honor made from the cv bearings would be good.
Dan
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They may have lasted 240k miles of normal driving, but not 240k miles of crazy launches from a higher torque engine swap. [emoji14]
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
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Step9:
Yes my exhaust was safety wired up
Step9.5:
Don't judge me
Whatchu know about safety wiring exhaust?!
That was an amusing evening lol -
If GKN is sold through WorldPac then you should be able to order them from Advance Auto or Carquest. Advance acquired WorldPac with their acquisition of Carquest. That could save you some shipping.
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I second the WorldPac Axles. I have a set in my car and they seem high quality. They were cheaper than getting boot kits for both axles as well LOL.
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