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  4. Yet ANOTHER Noob from Milwaukee -- Looking to replace suspension

Yet ANOTHER Noob from Milwaukee -- Looking to replace suspension

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved New Member Introduction
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  • X
    X
    xgeetx
    wrote on last edited by
    #28

    Sounds good. Well I'm doing my radiator tomorrow (got all the parts, woo!), so if that all goes well I'll put in an order for the Ultimos! Do you know if you actually have to jack the car up to bleed the radiator properly? My driveway is inclined, and there's a piece of cement that you have to bump over to get in the garage... I was thinking of just putting it there when I bleed the system. Thoughts?

    Thanks for all your help, I'm really glad you saved me $400 lol

    BTW: Based on the good old finger test, my back wheels currently have no clearance between them and the fender... I guess that means it's a little low? ha! The front I can fit ~3 fingers. I'm assuming it's because the back springs are broken, whereas the fronts are in tact.

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    0
    • EarlE
      EarlE
      Earl
      wrote on last edited by
      #29

      Yeah the rears tend to snap. Mine were garbage when I removed them.

      museum sig 2earl.jpg

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      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #30

        Bleeding is not as difficult as it is made out to be, a slight upward incline can help.  I drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat at the highest point possible, some brands come with a hole already and the tiny hole does not flow enough during normal operation to affect anything.  I would recommend BMW blue coolant or Evans NPG (the Evans is more work because the system must be flushed and all water removed so it's not really feasible unless doing major work already), both will protect against corrosion better and the Evans is lifetime coolant.  Use a bottle of Redline "Water Wetter" or Royal Purple "Purple Ice" if using regular green/yellow coolant for additional corrosion protection.

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • I
          I
          industrialsized
          wrote on last edited by
          #31

          i would recomend jom's veedubmachine.com like 310 shiped don't buy billies or bav auto springs

           i like the jom's but really thier the same as racelands  and while your under there you better replace your trailing arm bushings I have the tool if you need it

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          0
          • X
            X
            xgeetx
            wrote on last edited by
            #32

            Hmmm. I think I like the idea of getting something made in Germany over something made in China. Any of you other guys have any input?

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #33

              I have owned parts made in China that have had superior quality and performance to parts made in the US or Germany. 

              It has little to do with the country of manufacture, and a lot to do with  the company that does the engineering and dictates the tolerances, standards of quality, and inspection/acceptance.

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              • X
                X
                xgeetx
                wrote on last edited by
                #34

                Hmmmm.... fair point. I guess I give too much credit to that TUV certification I know nothing about! Any thoughts on the product themselves? Jom's vs. racelands vs. a struts/shocks/springs set (probably monroes to match this pricepoint...).

                I'm impressed that these coilovers are so cheap, when low end struts/shocks/springs can barely match the price. I would only lower a bit from stock (maybe an 1" since I like where my blown suspension sits). I really just want to save money for decent handling on the street.

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #35

                  The Raceland Ultimos are better than JOMs from what I have heard. I would stick with the Racelands

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                  0
                  • X
                    X
                    xgeetx
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #36

                    Alrighty! I think I got my radiator leak figured out (drove to work today.. .no leaking so far), so I ordered the Raceland Ultimos. I was debating it and googling around, but nothing beats a recommendation based on experience vs. fan-dom. I will order the mounts from PelicanParts either today or tomorrow, so I should be good to throw 'em in next weekend provided you are also free :)

                    I'll be getting the e46 convertible rear mounts and just normal mounts for the front, then?

                    What kind of spring pads should i throw on the back of this beast?

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #37

                      E46 M3 convertible mounts for the rear. You don't necessarily need spring pads. Keep the original pads if they are still intact.

                      m3sig-1.jpg

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                      • mkoeppM
                        mkoeppM
                        mkoepp
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #38

                        http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/942-welcome-to-the-new-member-introduction-section/

                        This should be in the General Technical section.

                        Just sayin

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • X
                          X
                          xgeetx
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #39

                          Well I will admit it has developed into something that should go there, but the thread you referenced does say "newbie questions" and "anything goes" :)

                          I think this thread is about wrapped up though, and I'll communicate with Earl via PM from here on out. Sorry about that!

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • YoungCRY
                            YoungCRY
                            YoungCR
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #40

                            xgeetx said:

                            Well I will admit it has developed into something that should go there, but the thread you referenced does say "newbie questions" and "anything goes" :)

                            I think this thread is about wrapped up though, and I'll communicate with Earl via PM from here on out. Sorry about that!

                            No problems! We're loosely organized around here anyways  :huh: .

                            Chris Young
                            BMWCCA #458972
                            1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • mkoeppM
                              mkoeppM
                              mkoepp
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #41

                              I really did not mean anything by it....I just thought this was an intro section to the forum.

                              :blink:

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • patsbimmer1P
                                patsbimmer1P
                                patsbimmer1
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #42

                                Welcome! If you haven't already ordered a radiator I highly recommend the Turner Motorsports all aluminum radiator. I bought one for my 97 328i after replacing 2 oem radiators in my 95 325is due to cracked necks.

                                I am in Greenfield if you ever need a hand!

                                2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                95 325is *sold*
                                93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                BMWCCA #473306

                                Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • X
                                  X
                                  xgeetx
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #43

                                  Hey patsbimmer1,

                                  thanks for the offer! I finished my cooling system swap last weekend. I'm still having to top off the expansion tank, but I read that you have to do that for a few days after finishing up... I don't see any leaking underneath so my fingers are crossed. I went with a Nissens radiator, but I kind of wish I did the aluminum one as it really wasn't that much more expensive :P oh well!

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • EarlE
                                    EarlE
                                    Earl
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #44

                                    Did you burp the coolant system once you were finished?

                                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #45

                                      May need to bleed a couple times, but always let it cool before taking the expansion tank cap off.  Let it cool and just crack the bleeder loose.  I did a conversion to the euro/e30 overflow on an e36 and will be doing it to mine this winter.  No idea why they went to a manual bleed system from a self bleeding design.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • X
                                        X
                                        xgeetx
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #46

                                        Yeah, I bled it, as best I could without jacking the front end up. I eventually said screw it, and just drove around stopping every few blocks to open the bleeder screw (who knows if that was risky or not :P )

                                        You mentioned to always let it cool before taking the expansion tank off? Is there a reason for this other than coolant being hot and pressurized? I have taken the cap off a hot radiator several times now to check the level.. (oops?)

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #47

                                          The pressure prevents boiling on a hot engine, mine just did not seem to like it, if I opened it hot, I kept getting more air to be bled out, not sure why.  Could be that when it gets closed again while hot it will then draw air in when it cools as the coolant contracts, I would think it should draw in at the cap when there is a vacuum in the system which would cause no issues, maybe I need a new cap.  Once it is bled its not ever an issue.  The level in the overflow will be off of the line except when the car is completely cold.

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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