Alpine e30 progress/build thread
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Time for a plush dash mat
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158.5k
Drove it across a truck scale near my house for fun last night. Subtracting my weight it came in at 2,720lbs with a full tank of gas. Stock 318is curb weight is ~2600, so I was initially a bit bummed I'd added 130lbs with the swap... But, when you consider I had a trunk full of stuff and a roof bike rack setup on it at the moment, that's actually not too bad!
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Mine was 2,720 with the M20 and automatic. Thats not much weight gain at all for the power increase
I should eventually corner balance it and figure out total weight
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158.7k
Well, it's officially this car's 30th birthday yesterday. For the last few months I was certain it was built 4/27/1991 and I got it out for a great drive in the nice weather to celebrate the occasion. Well, I looked it up this evening and it turns out it was the 26th, lol. Oh well, its the thought that counts.
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158.7k
I've been having some odd noises coming from the steering while turning the wheel towards full lock while parking, so I pulled the front struts to re-grease the strut mounts to see if that helps at all. While I was in there I removed the fixed camber plates and added e90 drop hats. I had always heard they were a direct drop in, but once the whole stack with the top mount and various washers were installed there wasn't full thread engagement on the top nut. I ground down the tapered washer piece on the top hat to reduce the thickness and end up with a flat mounting surface like the factory mount, but I forgot to take a picture. This is the part I'm referring to, I shaved it down by about half. It is a steel insert and still had more thickness left than the original e30 top hat so it should still be more than strong enough.
With the added drop hats and removed fixed camber plates (add another 5mm or so to the front ride height), the stance is so much better. It could still be a bit lower all around, but for now this is perfect. All cleaned up for the picnic!
The z3 rack is now leaking quite a bit from both sides, so I am going to give rebuilding it (or a core if I can find one) a shot at some point in the near future. I found this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2153710-DIY-How-to-rebuild-your-Z3-short-ratio-rack-and-pinion. And this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9drVXzCOuM) that are quite helpful. Seems like a tedious job but not impossible to do at home. Saving here for reference.
I changed the oil a few weeks ago too.
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159k
It been below freezing and snowed once already here so I guess it's time to fold the mirrors until spring.
I had a pretty much trouble free year with the only problems that popped up being the battery going dead fairly quickly and a fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator a few weeks ago. The leak stopped by just tightening the fitting, but I'll probably take it apart to re-seal properly before next season. I also swapped out the primered front lip for a cheap black one from ebay (you're welcome @straight6pwr). I'll admit it looks a heck of a lot better, though someday if/when I paint the car I will color match the primed one.
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oh thank god! best holiday gift I could have gotten.
Dan
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159.5k
Finally got this car out for the summer last weekend and took a nice drive through the Holy Hill area. While enjoying my cruise I was reminded of how much I hate the current state of the audio system in this car. At some point prior to my ownership it had an Alpine head unit and some Sony rear speakers installed by a Best Buy. While the individual parts weren't necessarily bad, the install was clearly terrible because random speakers would come and go any time you hit a bump. Sometimes you'd have all 4, sometimes it would switch left and right, if you got really unlucky you'd have seemingly nothing till the next expansion gap. I had enough and ordered the Continental head unit to start rebuilding the stereo into something workable.
Getting the old Alpine head unit out without the special tools was a little frustrating but I eventually succeeded with a pair of feeler gauges down each side in just the right spot. With the head unit out I found this messy pile of crap behind it:
The picture doesn't really capture it well but there were quite a few cut/loose wires, some random spliced in connectors that served no purpose, what looked to be an old ipod connection that was only half-way cut out, and a lot of electrical tape and crimp connectors. Since the factory connectors were long gone I just cut back everything until I was left with as much of the factory wiring that I could save. My car has the base 4-channel system with no amp so I soldered in the new head unit connectors using this diagram:
New head unit installed and working! Looks so much better than the old one and having bluetooth audio (once I figured out how to get it working) is a great upgrade.
The annoying news was that I only had sound from 3 of the 4 speakers. The driver's rear wasn't doing anything, so I pulled out the speaker and found what was probably real source of my problems:
It pulled out just like this, the connector had fallen right off with zero resistance. In fact, all of the connectors on both rear speakers were loose like that. I tightened up the connectors with a pliers and reattached them and what do you know, I have all 4 speakers working now! I'm not sure why it took me so long to dig into this but I'm pumped that it's working properly again.
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159.6k
Well, that lasted long. New head unit is awesome but I did exactly what I always do and jumped head first down the rabbit hole. I've decided to go for a total rework of the stereo system to try and get some good sound volume/quality while remaining as stealth and original looking as possible. I'm not going for trim rattling bass or audiophile sound quality, just something enjoyable while cruising around.
First project is a temporary solution until I figure out the rear speakers. When I pulled the existing speakers out last time I noticed that the speaker surround was being crushed by the factory speaker grille and probably preventing it from moving freely (you can see the wrinkles in the picture in my last post). I designed and printed some 5mm spacers that go between the speaker and grille to give it the appropriate clearance. I printed them in ASA to get some good heat and UV resistance.
Reassembled and you'd never know its there, fits the grille profile perfectly.
With that done I moved on to an amplifier. The biggest issue with the Continental head unit is that it has no RCA output or signal wire ouput for an amp. Fortunately, there are amplifiers that can work off "high level inputs", which is a fancy way of saying the speaker outputs from the head unit. I came across this Sony XMS400D amp that is intended to integrate with factory stereo systems and can work with high level inputs. To get around not having an amp signal wire, it can sense incoming audio signals and turn on automatically.
The only things remaining from the ABS system is the wiring and the computer. Turns out, the amp is smaller than the ABS computer and can be made to fit perfectly into it's mount! I whipped up a piece of aluminum flat stock to adapt the amp mounting tabs to the ABS computer mounts. Worked perfectly!
Had to basically cut out 90% of the wiring I just did with the head unit to integrate the amp but in doing that I was also able to sort out a mistake I had made. I had the constant 12v and switched 12v sources swapped, the head unit worked fine but wouldn't save the time/some settings. The amp basically just splices into the speaker wiring and has a few extra inputs for power/ground and a switched ignition source. It comes with ~40" of wire on each harness which is more than enough, I only needed to lengthen the 12v power wire to get over to the passenger side and through the firewall to reach the positive battery terminal. I also did twisted pairs on each of the speaker channels to help combat any noise. This is how the factory speaker wiring is done so I figured it wouldn't hurt. The only problem I ran into is that I broke the locking tab on one of the connectors which was annoying, but a few zip ties later it shouldn't be able to work itself out. Mounted the amp, routed/wrapped the wire harnesses in tesa tape like factory, and it's ready to go! I'm stoked that it will be totally hidden. I still need to gut the ABS wiring, but for now it's zip tied out of the way with the unplugged airbag module wiring lol.
The continental head unit can put out about 25W RMS per channel, which is actually pretty decent for a head unit, but this amp can do 45W RMS on each channel (with 100W peak), so nearly double the output. Even with the old 5.25" coaxial speakers in the car the sound is very noticeably improved. Much clearer/louder at the same volume number, and definitely has a bit more bass. Really happy with the improvement so far... speakers are next.
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Looking great! Sort of off topic, but what enclosure do you have for your 3d printer?
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Looking great! Sort of off topic, but what enclosure do you have for your 3d printer?
Thanks! My enclosure turned into quite the project haha. It is based off the Prusa Ikea Lack V2 design (https://blog.prusa3d.com/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/) so that I could order precut plexiglass, but I redesigned basically the entire thing. I changed the frame parts so that the entire top box can be removed, the wire passthrough for the power supply are a two piece threaded part that is a lot cleaner, added some features so I could lock down the top (makes it a lot easier to lift off the enclosure), and made some filler strips that seal off the perimiters of the plexiglass and top/bottom of the doors. I also did a filament spool holder and feed inside the enclosure instead of on top to keep dust off the filament. Next improvements are an internal light and possibly a filtered exhaust fan.
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