Alpine e30 progress/build thread
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Getting some little things done here and there. I got the coolant return hoses situated and secured, routed the catch can return line, and got more of the wiring tidied up. There is a lot going on but its starting to look fairly organized and clean (much better in person, the flash makes it look a lot worse).
I also got the sunroof drain figured out. The M54 head sits super close to the firewall, so I had to do some extensive trimming to get it to clear and still route water properly.
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Spent all of Saturday working on this, getting closer!
I didn't get a picture of it because it's not that interesting, but I made a new reverse light harness that routes along the trans and up through the hole in the firewall for the engine harness. Originally it passed through the shift lever grommet but since I made my body mount shifter the harness needed to be re-routed. I now have reverse lights!
I got the coolant temp sensors tightened down and grounded by soldering a wire through a small hole drilled in the e30 cluster temp sensor. The VDO sender is grounded through that wire as well.
Capped the holes in the firewall grommet for the AC lines and reinstalled the grommet. I still have to remove the AC evaporator core to complete the delete, but closing the hole is as far as I need to go for now.
Shaved down part of the UUC DSSR for a bit more giubo clearance. Got it reinstalled and there is plenty of clearance now:
Finished the headlight backing panel on the passenger side!
Here is the final panel. It is made form 22 gauge steel which initially felt a little thin, but with the bend along the top and the wider mounting bracket at the bottom it's actually very stiff.
It mounts to two M6 rivnuts in the core support along the top, and then an M6 rivnut on the bottom and conveniently one of the old mount points for the AC receiver drier thing. There are clearance holes on the bottom and side for wiring to pass through, and one small notch for one of the high beam adjusters near the radiator. I'm going to paint it black and use some rubber edging along the sides and wire cutouts to finish it off. I'm super happy with how it came out!
With the Canton 2qt radiator expansion tank mounted and plumbed! The outlet of the expansion tank runs through the hole below, I'm just waiting on the fitting for that connection and the cooling system will be ready to fill and bleed!
I was hoping to mount the oil catch can to this panel but there just isn't room to do it nicely so I will have to find another location for that.
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that headlight cover looks awesome.
you're getting alarmingly close to running/driving e30 land.
ill need to get stickier tires for autox this year so you don't make me look a fool.
Dan
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Question on that expansion tank. Does the high up hose connection, which I assume comes from the small hose high on the radiator, have an internal tube going to the bottom of the tank? Or is it just a hole into the tank? I've looked at those and never gotten a good answer. The stock tanks have that bleed line go down to the bottom of the reservoir to prevent air from going back into the top of the radiator every time the engine cools.
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that headlight cover looks awesome.
you're getting alarmingly close to running/driving e30 land.
ill need to get stickier tires for autox this year so you don't make me look a fool.
Definitely feeling more confident about getting it out this summer! There will certainly be a learning curve with about double the power... no more on/off gas pedal haha
Question on that expansion tank. Does the high up hose connection, which I assume comes from the small hose high on the radiator, have an internal tube going to the bottom of the tank? Or is it just a hole into the tank? I've looked at those and never gotten a good answer. The stock tanks have that bleed line go down to the bottom of the reservoir to prevent air from going back into the top of the radiator every time the engine cools.
To be honest, I completely forgot about that one... whoops. I'm 95% sure it doesn't have an internal pipe running down to the bottom. I'm not convinced it is 100% necessary as the air might just bleed right back out next time it heats up, but I do think it would be best practice to have that feature so I am looking into ways to add it. I am thinking of using a barbed bulkhead connector tapped into a plug on that port, then fit the hose on through the top hole.
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To be honest, I completely forgot about that one... whoops. I'm 95% sure it doesn't have an internal pipe running down to the bottom. I'm not convinced it is 100% necessary as the air might just bleed right back out next time it heats up, but I do think it would be best practice to have that feature so I am looking into ways to add it. I am thinking of using a barbed bulkhead connector tapped into a plug on that port, then fit the hose on through the top hole.
Right, it might bleed out, I'm not sure how I feel about doing that.
I was looking for a tank with a small connection down low for the radiator bleed line, it doesn't really matter whether it comes in the top and has a tube to the bottom or just comes in down low as long as it isn't too near the larger hose where coolant gets sucked back in so that any bubbles can rise out of the liquid.
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Right, it might bleed out, I'm not sure how I feel about doing that.
I was looking for a tank with a small connection down low for the radiator bleed line, it doesn't really matter whether it comes in the top and has a tube to the bottom or just comes in down low as long as it isn't too near the larger hose where coolant gets sucked back in so that any bubbles can rise out of the liquid.
Agreed, I would definitely prefer to have the peace of mind that the bleed is 'permanent'. I ordered some parts to fit an internal tube with the goal being putting the hose end about 1/4 of the way from the bottom of the tank, since I'd like to fill it around 1/2-2/3 of the way full.
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Agreed, I would definitely prefer to have the peace of mind that the bleed is 'permanent'. I ordered some parts to fit an internal tube with the goal being putting the hose end about 1/4 of the way from the bottom of the tank, since I'd like to fill it around 1/2-2/3 of the way full.
Let us know how it works out. I would love to replace my plastic coolant tank with an aluminum one, and also need something for the van project. Although with that I can easily mount the tank well higher than the top of the radiator so it shouldn't be an issue.
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Making progress!
Installed a new E30 CSB on the lowish mile E36 M3 driveshaft I picked up a while back and got it installed in the car with a new gumbo
I liked @straight6pwr's method of removing the AC evaporator core so I did the same. I blocked off the opening in the side cover with a piece of plastic from an old tool case I don't use and seam sealed it in place. The core had tons of junk in it so I should get a lot more air flow now too.
Spent the rest of the weekend doing a bunch of wiring. I made some changes to the radiator fan wiring that was previously always on with the ignition and added a manual override switch in the center console and a 91C temp switch in the radiator. I also completed the wiring for the VDO water temp/oil temp/oil pressure gauges. The backlight/dimming works well and at least the oil pressure gauge is working, haven't gotten any heat into it to test the other two. I also started the Hella Sharptone horn wiring but couldn't get too far as I don't have a relay for it yet.
I also continued with the center console. The console I have is from an early model car so I had to make some modifications for the knee bolster mounts and such. There is a large cutout on the side as well as a notch cut into the rib that runs along underneath the ashtray area. I also removed all the insulation on the back as it seemed to cause some fit issues. The original console is on top, new one on the bottom.
Before:
After:
And installed! Looks great with the gauges in there, fan switch works well too. I still haven't wired the e36 switches as I don't have the right ones, but left them in to fill the holes.
The only issue is the console still isn't sitting right so I'm going to have to pull it back out again and do some more investigating.
Getting closer!
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Getting nothing done because I'm never home, but I did solve one very important issue that was pretty critical to making it to the picnic:
I replaced the rusting screws holding on my steering wheel with some neat raw titanium ones. Stainless was too bright and I didn't trust the strength of anodized aluminum. Titanium has this flat dark gray color that looks really nice and wont rust or tarnish like steel. Plus the 0.5oz weight savings that high up will drop the CG and give me the edge in autocross.
As far as actually making it to the picnic I think I have all the parts to get it done either in my garage or in the mail, now I just need to find the time to get it all buttoned up.
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As far as actually making it to the picnic I think I have all the parts to get it done either in my garage or in the mail, now I just need to find the time to get it all buttoned up.
You know it's okay to ask for help.
E91 328xi - F15 X5 40e - Hopes and dreams of eventually having a cool car
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You know it's okay to ask for help.
Don't worry I do! If it starts getting into real-deal crunch time I will for sure be planning a "help plz" party at my garage
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in for halp plz party
stop making your car faster than mine with lightweight stuff
Dan
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stop making your car faster than mine with lightweight stuff
No!!
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Didn't take any pictures, but got a few things done last night!
Brakes are bled! Turns out I didn't have a container of ATE Type 200 like I thought, but I did have an unopened can of ATE Super Blue so I now have a fresh fill of fancy blue brake fluid. The new larger master cylinder pushes a lot more fluid and feels really nice, though I haven't tried it with the engine running.
I don't have the rebuilt 3.15 LSD yet so I installed the original small case 4.10 open diff and finished the driveshaft and axle installation. This is mostly to facilitate the exhaust fabrication that I am hoping to get started on very soon. The drive-train is basically functional short of torquing the axle flanges and bleeding the clutch, so that's exciting.
Current to-do list for making it to the picnic (22 days remaining):
- Bleed clutch
- Pull headers to lengthen O2 sensor plug wires, reinstall headers
- Fabricate exhaust
- Weld skid plate mounts to chassis and install skid plate
- Finish coolant tank internal hose, mount tank
- Install/wire coolant temp switch for electric fan
- Bleed cooling system
- Fabricate catch can mount, route hoses
- Fabricate intake/filter support
- Reinstall interior pieces
- Reinstall hood/grilles
- Change trans fluid
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in order to get you to the picnic, i've audited your list to only the bare minimum.
- Bleed clutch
- Pull headers to lengthen O2 sensor plug wires, reinstall headers
- Fabricate exhaust
- Weld skid plate mounts to chassis and install skid plate
- Finish coolant tank internal hose, mount tank
- Install/wire coolant temp switch for electric fan
- Bleed cooling system
- Fabricate catch can mount, route hoses
- Fabricate intake/filter support
- Reinstall interior pieces
- Reinstall hood/grilles
- Change trans fluid
I expect you'll show up in a blaze of glory - with open-header flames, fuh-raz no hood style, oil spewing from your cracked oil pan and catch can hoses, and a steaming engine hotter than two mice fornicating in a sock.
but you'll be there.
Dan
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