Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Pulled the pilot bearing and did some passenger door work.
Before:
After:
Got some things powder coated by Snap. Great color match and top quality!!!!
Test fitting the puller:
Got me a Marlin!
New bearing installed.
@DrLeadFoot
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Are you going to Water by the Bridge this year?
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Snap-on?! That's a harbor freight blue light special!
@DrLeadFoot
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Got the new door latch installed.
New gates, springs, cleaned and lubed lock cylinder.
Locked in.
Good to go!
Duct taped up the holes.
Now just need to install these actuators to trouble shoot my central locking system.
@DrLeadFoot
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Attending to the drivers lock.
This might be a problem.
All done!
@DrLeadFoot
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Took my attention to the trunk. Replaced the gas door acuator and the trunk latch. Both were seized up.
I am in need of the linkage that connects the trunk latch to the acuator.
@DrLeadFoot
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Started on the divers door wiring. Didn't take too many pics but I sorted out the interior light wiring and now both interior lights work when the door opens!! Ah, the little things. The PO had pulled the 30amp fuse 27 and you'll see why.
I still would like the exterior handle to trigger the interior lights prior to entry but I am having trouble finding a picture of how the mechanism works inside the door and if I'm missing a striker(?) piece, that would close the connection triggering the interior light timing control, which I think I am.
I combed through the wiring schematics and tracked down the C503 connector and bypassed that by crimping the BR/GN wires together and the BR ones the like. The pics I have are of how the PO had them after I unwrapped of what seemed to be 2 feet of electrical tape.
The C503 connector has three wires coming from the chassis to the connector the RD/BLK is there but isn't used.
That is where the PO had a short or didn't know what he was doing and this happened.
Fire, Fire!!
@DrLeadFoot
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I have full door wiring harnesses if you want to just replace the whole thing.
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This is what I need a part number for. Just the electircal part of the handle that bolts to the mechanism via a 10mm nut.
@DrLeadFoot
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I have full door wiring harnesses if you want to just replace the whole thing.
Yes please. Do you have that handle part I just posted too? Also, what is your timeframe on pulling that?
@DrLeadFoot
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I have the wiring sitting in a box, and I can't quite tell what your picture is of. I can't open the picture to make it larger.
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It is a shot from the door cavity side of the exterior door handle. There is a contact switch that closes when you pull up on the handle illuminating the interior lights.
@DrLeadFoot
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Did a little bit of work on the car but need to get into the office and do some work and get paid!
Removing the rear main seal.
Slide hammer'd it out.
New rear main installed. I put a thin layer of black RTV sealant on the outside and some oil on the inside.
All torqued down to 80ft/lbs per UUC instructions.
@DrLeadFoot
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lol at the ziptie method
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I ordered my last bit of parts that should be here Wednesday.
Tomorrow I will get the clutch bolted up and move my attention to the trans and prep it for install. Shift fork, brass pivot thing, new reverse switch and plug and wiring that goes with that. I've never had reverse lights!
Turbo t3 gasket needs to be replaced. Any recommendations on a good one?
I don't see why I couldn't get this on the road by this weekend. Once it is under its own power I'm taking it to Dan the Exhaust Man's shop right away and having the e36 twin diff mount cover installed (if someone will take my money!).
Also need to take some material off of my blow-off valve spring to stop the fluttering.
/rambling
@DrLeadFoot
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