Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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JL audio they make some glorious noise!!!!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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I was at ams audio in madtown not too long ago and the owner of the place showed me the new 6.5 inch sub that jl came out with and 1 sounded better than my 2 12s???!!!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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this thing is a little monster!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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this thing is a little monster!
I think it might be the amp. Can you recommend one for a 12in? Clarity over loudness is preferred.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I don't know why I haven't posted this earlier! The theme of the build!
@DrLeadFoot
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If I was rich I would have JL everything for sound in my cars and van and kenwood excelon head units I have the top of the line excelon in my e46 and love it now I need a new headunit in my van hate my stock one
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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I had on JL w0 10" in a 5 gallon bucket running off 250 watts and it sounded amazing
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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I'll look into the JL subs. What about amps??
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@DrLeadFoot
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Just took this pic for documentation of the miles on the motor. The actual total mileage should be around 250,000 but my odometer gears were out of commission for awhile.
3079 miles to date.
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@DrLeadFoot
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JL amps are also amazing, the mono sub amps are good down to 1.5 ohms, which works well as some of their subs are dual 3ohm voice coils, parallel gets you to 1.5 ohms, those are only the monster w7 series though. You need to decide how many you are going to have though to set up your system properly.
For example with one sub you may want a dual 4ohm in parallel which is 2 ohms.
But if you want 2 subs then you would want each to have a single 4 ohm coil, or dual 2 ohms wired in series so the total would be 4 ohms, then wire the two in parallel which results in 2 ohms.
At this point in my life if I were to have some woofers again I would get a single w6 series 10". All the quality and plenty of volume, don't compare these to the typical Sony Xplod stuff, this is a whole different level. (No offense to anyone with Sony equipment
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I don't know much about amps and subs and such. I had Car-Feteria install the new sub and hook everything up thinking I did something wrong but the same thing happened. I wonder if my amp, which is around 8 years old might be bad. Could a box blow a sub or over work an amp?
I'm going to take it back there and tell them to make a bullet proof system. I just wanna blast some tunes!!
Update from yesterday: Mazdaspeeds are getting a lesson in Turbo'd MPOWER!!!
A MazdaSpeed 6 with license plate "1SICK6" found out his 6 wasn't so sick.
@DrLeadFoot
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The box shouldn't damage a sub, it just may not have the best sound quality if not sized correctly, each sub has specs on the optimal box dimensions.
Easiest way to blow a sub is an underpowered or poor quality amp. A speaker is just an electromagnet attached to a diaphragm that physically moves to match the electrical sine wave coming from the amplifier. When the amp is beyond its RMS/continuous power rating the sine wave gets cut off at the top. Then the sine wave is sqare at the top (referred to as clipping/distortion) the sub tries to move in the same way instead of a smooth back and forth action which will quickly overheat the coils in the electromagnet.
Long story short it is better to have more amp than you need.
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NNNOOOOOOOOOO!
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@DrLeadFoot
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