Newbie in Madison -- fell off the wagon again
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With a lot of trimming to the headlight baskets and the metal valance and splaying out the gussets that support the upper core support/hood hinge area (cut, bend, reweld, paint), it all fits. Well, we had to massage the rails ahead of the core support a bit. It all goes back on and looks pretty benign (sleeper?).
I will want to add the lower air damn to force more air through the FMIC and radiator. I am thinking about some ducting to split what goes through the FMIC (and not just spill down the front) and force what naturally goes below the FMIC into the radiator. Have to think this out though.
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At this same time, the oil drain from the turbo was a huge PITA to get around all the exhaust and keep a proper, constant downward slope. I felt there would be too much heat to run a flexible stainless line (the outer is stainless, the inside is still meltable at extreme temps). So, I wrestled a hard line 3/4 of the way and added a flex at the bottom once it is clear of the exhaust. I think the solution is good, just took several attempts to create (I quit this little project several weekends in a row).
Upgrading the fuel lines was kind of a pain. I tried bending it out of 1/2" aluminum but lacked good benders that went that large. I felt like hard line was the safer way to go, but in working with that soft aluminum I wasn't convinced. In the end, I went with securely mounted braided stainless. The dual pump setup was ditched in favor of a Aeromotive 340 lph intank pump and a high flow, inline filter around the stock location. The stock fuel pump assembly on the 87 325e was a little different than the writeup I'd seen on the interwebs. We actually used pieces of two assemblies (cutting, welding, testing, etc.) to make something that looked sturdy and fit well.
By this time, we've done a final installation of engine, tranny and custom driveshaft only to discover the trans is locked up. With the once piece driveshaft and the rear subframe encircling it, this hiccup is a big PITA. My brother-in-law's pop had squirreled away a practically new WC T5 with short shifter, so newer parts, wallet weight reduction, all good!
For those familiar with these swaps, some suggest the engine and trans need to be pulled to install a driveshaft. We found it much easier to drop the differential ~4 inches, back the shaft up, then engage the front yoke into the trans, lift up the diff and bolt back up, then bolt the shaft to the differential. Takes <60 minutes.
Unfortunately, I am lacking pics on these items.
At this point in the build last summer we had to move to a new shop. I realize I've not taken any useful pics (some OK video).
We've all but finished the wiring. 3.5" single exhaust with really large stainless Magnaflow. Pedals are in. Clutch line is run and bled (not confident it is working well as the first inch or more does nothing to move the slave, though it has been bled like crazy and multiple ways). Throttle is hooked up. New brake lines need to be run from the MC as the ABS was removed for now. Also need to troubleshoot and tune and see if we can find a smoother idle. More pics maybe after next weekend.
Still looking for parts: left front fender, lower airdam, sunroof crank handle, glovebox.
Thanks!
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Crank-y said:
Eves are usually good for me.
I am close to the Sentry on Cottage Grove. Car is on the IL border unfortunately. I may not get to go down now for a few weeks. So, checking out some local folks' shops and projects would be great... a little hit to tie me over.
I'm sure I could sneak you into Jason's shop! Haha, kidding. Jason's a cool cat. I doubt he'd mind in the least bit. But you should look at getting a shop up here! I'd maybe see if I could swing the cost of splitting a shop!
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love it.
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We should all meet up sometime, so I can get more hands on this stupid wheel bearing