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  4. Newbie in Madison -- fell off the wagon again

Newbie in Madison -- fell off the wagon again

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  • C
    C
    Crank-y
    wrote on last edited by
    #17

    Next up was getting the exhaust from the backwards shorty headers to the turbo. It is pretty tight, but we wanted to have reasonable bends into the collector and a divorced wastegate. The plan is to run low boost (<10psi for now), so a fair amount of exhaust will needed to be dumped. An integral gate seemed like it would present creep challenges. After building a bracket to hold the turbo's weight (and doing the necessary clocking), we could be creative in getting the 2.5" piping from either bank to the passenger side. If this works well, I'll pull it and have it coated. For now, we'll just see. The turbo and gate are kind of cheap placeholders I plan to run for the first few thousand miles to determine if I like the performance of this size (I copied the specs of a common Mustang kit when selecting this one). I couldn't justify spending a mint on a turbo before I even know what I really want... so many expenses to get this thing running.

    post-1582-136211551015thumb.jpg

    post-1582-136211551026thumb.jpg

    Also, a simple 4" cold air intake was made. Picking up air from in front of the wheel well. The bracket to support the turbo weight can also be seen.

    post-1582-136211551038thumb.jpg

    post-1582-136211551074thumb.jpg

    A 3" downpipe was made and a bung added for the wideband. Down below this goes to 3.5" and eventually the wastegate will merge in there just before heading into the trans tunnel.

    post-1582-136211551048thumb.jpg

    (is it too early for me to share that kind of picture?)

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    • C
      C
      Crank-y
      wrote on last edited by
      #18

      I really like the clean look of no fans in the engine bay. I'm taking a bit of a risk and going to try two thin pusher fans in front (sandwiched b/w the FMIC and radiator). If it doesn't keep the engine cool at stops and low speeds we'll need to flip to the other side.

      To prep, I found the thinnest fans with the biggest diameter I could find. I trimmed the core support just a bit (and repainted) and attached the two fans. I can still pull the radiator, with the fans attached out through the engine bay if the top radiator hose is removed.

      post-1582-136211551053thumb.jpg

      post-1582-136211551062thumb.jpg

      My buddy fabbed a simple upper radiator bracket (rubber underneath; not bolted to the core support in this pic) and we added a little foam between the endtanks and the back of the core support to help direct air through rather than around the sides. Still need to think about directing air through on the bottom as you will see later the bottom of the radiator is the one part that is unobstructed by the FMIC.

      post-1582-13621155107thumb.jpg

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      • C
        C
        Crank-y
        wrote on last edited by
        #19

        After that we turned to the intercooler. I liked the e30 folks that minimized the path length by running the piping just under the headlights. I also wanted to fit an oversized FMIC. However, I love the look of the four headlights and I wanted a stock appearance from the front.

        We also planned to flip the Ford 5.0 intake 180deg so the throttle body is on the driver's side. With a modification of the fuel rail (remove the FPR), the Cobra/GT40/Explorer intakes can do this pretty easy. This way the passenger side of the engine is downpipe, the driver's side is charge pipe. On the standard Mustang single-turbo everything is jammed in on the passenger side. I like this altrnative routing.

        The best path seemed like a big eBay intercooler with some modifications to the end tanks (to fit the headlights) and welded on elbows. 2.75" piping + couplers added that much more interference with the headlight baskets so going hardpipe off the endtank saved a tiny bit. The cast elbows look cool too, IMHO.

        post-1582-136211551082thumb.jpg

        post-1582-136211551091thumb.jpg

        post-1582-136211551105thumb.jpg

        More handiwork with charge piping... lots of aluminum welding.

        post-1582-136211551112thumb.jpg

        post-1582-136211551114thumb.jpg

        post-1582-136211551116thumb.jpg

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        • C
          C
          Crank-y
          wrote on last edited by
          #20

          With a lot of trimming to the headlight baskets and the metal valance and splaying out the gussets that support the upper core support/hood hinge area (cut, bend, reweld, paint), it all fits. Well, we had to massage the rails ahead of the core support a bit. It all goes back on and looks pretty benign (sleeper?).

          I will want to add the lower air damn to force more air through the FMIC and radiator. I am thinking about some ducting to split what goes through the FMIC (and not just spill down the front) and force what naturally goes below the FMIC into the radiator. Have to think this out though.

          post-1582-136211551125thumb.jpg

          post-1582-136211551131thumb.jpg

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          • C
            C
            Crank-y
            wrote on last edited by
            #21

            At this same time, the oil drain from the turbo was a huge PITA to get around all the exhaust and keep a proper, constant downward slope. I felt there would be too much heat to run a flexible stainless line (the outer is stainless, the inside is still meltable at extreme temps). So, I wrestled a hard line 3/4 of the way and added a flex at the bottom once it is clear of the exhaust. I think the solution is good, just took several attempts to create (I quit this little project several weekends in a row).

            Upgrading the fuel lines was kind of a pain. I tried bending it out of 1/2" aluminum but lacked good benders that went that large. I felt like hard line was the safer way to go, but in working with that soft aluminum I wasn't convinced. In the end, I went with securely mounted braided stainless. The dual pump setup was ditched in favor of a Aeromotive 340 lph intank pump and a high flow, inline filter around the stock location. The stock fuel pump assembly on the 87 325e was a little different than the writeup I'd seen on the interwebs. We actually used pieces of two assemblies (cutting, welding, testing, etc.) to make something that looked sturdy and fit well.

            By this time, we've done a final installation of engine, tranny and custom driveshaft only to discover the trans is locked up. With the once piece driveshaft and the rear subframe encircling it, this hiccup is a big PITA. My brother-in-law's pop had squirreled away a practically new WC T5 with short shifter, so newer parts, wallet weight reduction, all good!

            For those familiar with these swaps, some suggest the engine and trans need to be pulled to install a driveshaft. We found it much easier to drop the differential ~4 inches, back the shaft up, then engage the front yoke into the trans, lift up the diff and bolt back up, then bolt the shaft to the differential. Takes <60 minutes.

            Unfortunately, I am lacking pics on these items.

            At this point in the build last summer we had to move to a new shop. I realize I've not taken any useful pics (some OK video).

            We've all but finished the wiring. 3.5" single exhaust with really large stainless Magnaflow. Pedals are in. Clutch line is run and bled (not confident it is working well as the first inch or more does nothing to move the slave, though it has been bled like crazy and multiple ways). Throttle is hooked up. New brake lines need to be run from the MC as the ABS was removed for now. Also need to troubleshoot and tune and see if we can find a smoother idle. More pics maybe after next weekend.

            Still looking for parts: left front fender, lower airdam, sunroof crank handle, glovebox.

            Thanks!

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            • Brian.B
              Brian.B
              Brian.
              wrote on last edited by
              #22

              This thing is looking good man! Where abouts in Madison are you/your shop located?

              instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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              • C
                C
                Crank-y
                wrote on last edited by
                #23

                I'm on the east side. Car and shop are on the border. Hope to have the car driving by spring... just have to see how that goes.

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                • Brian.B
                  Brian.B
                  Brian.
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #24

                  On the border, like state line border? I'm off Park St. Ryan... is in Fitchburg, we should meet up sometime! :D

                  instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                  • JdesignJ
                    JdesignJ
                    Jdesign
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #25

                    Awesome build!!! Where on the eastside? My shop is also on the eastside in Cottage Grove.

                    SumBunny.jpg

                    https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                    🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                    👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                    ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                    🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                    • Brian.B
                      Brian.B
                      Brian.
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #26

                      That's not on the east side you buffoon, that's out of town! 😜 We should all meet up sometime, so I can get more hands on this stupid wheel bearing

                      instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                      • JeffJ
                        JeffJ
                        Jeff
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #27

                        build looks awsome makes me want to do something now

                        1976 530i e12
                        1990 325ix e30
                        1992 325i e36
                        1995 740il e38
                        2001 330xi e46
                        ^More to come :)

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                        • C
                          C
                          Crank-y
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #28

                          Eves are usually good for me.

                          I am close to the Sentry on Cottage Grove. Car is on the IL border unfortunately. I may not get to go down now for a few weeks. So, checking out some local folks' shops and projects would be great... a little hit to tie me over.

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                          • Brian.B
                            Brian.B
                            Brian.
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #29

                            Crank-y said:

                            Eves are usually good for me.

                            I am close to the Sentry on Cottage Grove. Car is on the IL border unfortunately. I may not get to go down now for a few weeks. So, checking out some local folks' shops and projects would be great... a little hit to tie me over.

                            I'm sure I could sneak you into Jason's shop! Haha, kidding. Jason's a cool cat. I doubt he'd mind in the least bit. But you should look at getting a shop up here! I'd maybe see if I could swing the cost of splitting a shop!

                            instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                            • F
                              F
                              fastenerpuller
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #30

                              love it.

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