87 535is - getting started
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That is the M3 from BFR.
Yes, they say that they are an M5 part but I am not positive. They are part of a kit sold here - http://blunttechclassic.com/?page_id=279
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There is a lot more brake there so it is a significant improvement in stopping power. Front pads are the same as E36 M3 so it gives you a bunch of options as well. On the track, I used about half the brand new pads (Textar) and I expected to use a lot more. In a panic stop on the road, the car stops right now !!
The swap is bolt on and there are quite a few options ... The list below is from www.m535i.org ... Mine is a Stage 5 and is very cost effective. I think I paid $200 for the calipers and an upgraded master cylinder (The master was messed up so it is not installed). I rebuilt all the calipers with new seals and bought new rotors and pads. The bias is really good and the package performed really well on the track.
Stage 1: E32/540i fronts
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels
Stage 2: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15” wheels, 16” wheels
Stage 3: E32/540i fronts, E34 solid rears
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels front and rear
Stage 4: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts, E34 solid rears
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15”, 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 5: E32/540i fronts, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels front and rear
Stage 6: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15”, 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 7: E34 US M5/US 540i Sport front and rear
Minimum wheel size: some 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 8: E31 front, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: some 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 9: E34 Euro, E31 850CSi Euro (Nurburgring brakes)
Minimum wheel size: 17” wheels front; 16” wheels rear
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I like ABS but after replacing the pump, control unit, sensors (with used sensors), and cleaning the rings on the hubs, it is still in-op. I have some more used sensors to try out before pulling the rest of my hair out, but I am starting to lean towards removing my ABS. I really dont want to flat-spot a set of nice tires, but as hard as I was on the brakes at the track, I didn't get into any lockup even on my all-seasons. So im on the fence about keeping/removing the ABS. If I can get it to work this spring, then I will re-locate the pump to behind the passenger side strut tower for some better weight distribution.
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Learn to put just the right amount of pressure on your brakes while braking hard. A good way to do this, drive with out cruise control for a long time. I never use crusie control, you'll get muscle memory of where say, "60mph is" and your foot will auto adjust for going up and down hills. Sounds stupid, but it works. My ABS is all sorts of fucked up, and likes to kick on and off on it's own. too bad I can't just disconnect the power to the damn thing. Or remove it and put in T fittings.
That looks awesome.
Shaved bay:P lol
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