chit chat thread
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Most cheap washer fluid is only good to 32 degrees F.
It's always the cheapest, and right next to the stuff good for 0 degrees.Makes me wonder how many people this happens to, regardless of where the car comes from.
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My girlfriend bought a new car maybe two weeks ago, (She bought it in Ohio and drove it back) and yesterday she came home and said her windshield washers weren't working. I thought this was weird since the car is a 2016 with only 11k on it, so we went down to the parking garage to take a look and they're working again, we figured maybe she just didn't pull the lever correctly. Well this morning she was on her way to work, went to wash the windshield shortly after leaving the garage and the washers worked, but the fluid instantly froze on the windshield and she had to stop and scrape it off! Turns out the lines had frozen yesterday and then thawed when it was parked inside and we tested it. The car started life in SC, and it turns out the washer fluid tank is likely filled with "summer" washer fluid that has a much higher freezing point than what they sell here, so I'll be flushing it out and refilling tonight. Pro tip if you buy a new daily from somewhere with a warmer climate: flush your washer fluid before it gets cold!
Had this happen to me last year in my white 328i. Car came from Texas. Good times.
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I've got 6 gallons of the cheap stuff sitting in my garage that's supposed to be down to -20F and that's the all season formula. I guess if a manufacturer can save a couple pennies by making a lesser product to sell in regions that don't require them to meet the same standards we need in the colder climates then that's what they'll do. I guess I'd do the same thing. I never thought the world of washer fluid would be so diverse!
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I've got 6 gallons of the cheap stuff sitting in my garage that's supposed to be down to -20F and that's the all season formula. I guess if a manufacturer can save a couple pennies by making a lesser product to sell in regions that don't require them to meet the same standards we need in the colder climates then that's what they'll do. I guess I'd do the same thing. I never thought the world of washer fluid would be so diverse!
You can also use certain washer fluids as a “replacement”/alternative in methanol injection systems. It’s nice because It’s cheap and readily available. Some people even mix it with HEET and or dilute it with water.
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I pulled the engine and transmission from my Toyota van on Friday night/Saturday morning. That was a joy... It was extra fun because it has AWD. Back story on this, I bought it pretty cheap with a bad transmission and waited until it was freezing outside to work on it. A friend and I were working on it in a warm shop with a lift though so it wasn't bad other than some rusted bolts. I have a crazy idea that might involve having an excellent running 3MZ-FE for sale... and a van that is no longer AWD. It's an '04 Sienna, XLE Limited.
Does anyone have pictures from the side of an m50/52 with an e34 oil pan installed? I'm trying to figure out whether front or rear sump would work best.
Also any thoughts on the effect of moving a brake caliper to behind the axle in front rather than in front? I may need to swap the knuckles so that the steering rack is in front rather than behind the axle so that would move the brake calipers as well.
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Excellent pictures, thanks! I didn't think switching from 3:00 to 9:00 would be a big deal. Is there a market for RWD Sienna vans with BMW drivetrains? Also how long with the rear differential hold up? Factory system was 230hp with full time viscous style with 50/50 front/rear. The driveshaft and differential look pretty beefy so i would hope for the best.
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The tape measure says it will fit with an inch between the head and firewall and right up to the electric fan assembly in front, however the electric fan assembly is 4" thick so I will put a thinner one in. The bay is way wider and deeper so that is no problem. My main hurdles are moving the steering rack because it currently is behind the front axles and high above the subframe, the transfer case output to the rear goes under the rack currently. I plan to move it to in front of the axle and swap the knuckles. I might also ream the tapered hole for the tie rod end the opposite direction so the tie rod end inserts from the bottom rather than the top how it is currently. It depends if the angle gets too extreme when I lower the rack 3 or 4 inches. I think I will need to use the BMW rack and make my own tie rod end extensions because the Toyota one would be backwards if I move it to the front of the axle.
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Been waiting 9 hours for a car to be towed by AAA. Does that seem right? I've never used it before but that doesn't seem like customer service.
Hmm they should have been there in an hour...
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