chit chat thread
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Ive had a set of Treehouse Racing CAB's on my car for 3 years and they arent too bad although driving downtown Milwaukee can be painful.
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. i've had one guy tell me the increase in NVH is tremendous and i will regret it, while others say its not really noticeable. we shall see. i certainly have very low standards as to what is acceptable NVH so i can't imagine it will be a problem. one thing everyone agrees on, though, is it sharpens the steering a little bit.
Oh yeah, big time. You take away any sort of dampening on the rotation of the arm as well, so any good bump just transfers through the chassis itself instead of a softer bushing.
Sadly on Wisconsin roads it leads to bent things. My caster is decently far off on one side compared to the other, which it had not been when I first put them in. Makes me wonder what the weak link was.I agree, it does make the steering fun (offset bushings) which is primarily because of the caster. Depending on tire size and sidewall you can feel the car lifting up from the caster when turning, and when coming back to center you can feel it sink down once it rocks off the edge. Combine that with a tiny bit of toe out and it gets really fun!
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Oh yeah, big time. You take away any sort of dampening on the rotation of the arm as well, so any good bump just transfers through the chassis itself instead of a softer bushing.
Sadly on Wisconsin roads it leads to bent things. My caster is decently far off on one side compared to the other, which it had not been when I first put them in. Makes me wonder what the weak link was.I agree, it does make the steering fun (offset bushings) which is primarily because of the caster. Depending on tire size and sidewall you can feel the car lifting up from the caster when turning, and when coming back to center you can feel it sink down once it rocks off the edge. Combine that with a tiny bit of toe out and it gets really fun!
what toe and camber settings do you run?
Dan
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They can't be that much noticeably stiffer than a solid delrin bushing. I just don't see the value other than the longtube debate.
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what toe and camber settings do you run?
I'll check my sheet tonight.
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-2.5 camber
0* toe
^is what I run currently
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Anyone ever have door glass that has a heavy cloudy build up of dirt where the glass meets the window seals? My new passenger window for the compact has this and I am trying to figure out the best way to remove it as soap and water didn't do the trick
Use 0000 steel wool. It'll easily remove that grime without scratching the glass.
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Is it on the surface or is it actually in between sheets of the glass? You could try a product called Bar Keepers Friend. I've used it on the glass top of my stove and house windows and it works miracles!
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I'd try Bar Keepers Friend before an abrasive like steel wool!
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Both of those options sound super risky. Just buy new stuff from the dealer
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For what I got charged for this used one I should have bought a new pane. A new window is only $156. The guy was supposed to send me bumper shocks and the window for $120 but then he threw away the shocks and sent me the window saying, "Shipping was a lot more than I figured and the studs on the bumper shocks had more rust than you wanted."
I just watched a guy clean windows with the steel wool like TJ suggested and it was phenomenal
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I'd try Bar Keepers Friend before an abrasive like steel wool!
#0000 grade steel wool won't scratch the glass, it will clean the dirt out of scratches though sometimes making them more visible. Also this dosent work with tint or rear window heaters on the inside as it will scratch.
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Yea, I didn't see any of the posts ahead of me before I posted that...
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