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  4. E30 M50 tear down kinda thing

E30 M50 tear down kinda thing

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • R
    R
    Rowleym
    wrote on last edited by
    #20

    Ever hear about condor speed shops mounts? They are quite cheap.

    96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

    sk8 or die

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    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #21

      AKG Motorsport has the subframe mount reinforcements. I have a set waiting to go in. I got pretty annoyed with the solid mounts on another car, but it wasnt a smooth BMW 6 so that may help out substantially.

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      • R
        R
        Rowleym
        wrote on last edited by
        #22

        So if you were me, you would go with the solid aluminum and reinforcement?

        96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

        sk8 or die

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        • StewCrewS
          StewCrewS
          StewCrew
          wrote on last edited by
          #23

          Rowleym said:

          Ever hear about condor speed shops mounts? They are quite cheap.

          I just looked those up. For the price of AKG mounts, you can get both engine and trans mounts. I might end up going with these with AKG subframe mounts, since they're only $15 right now :)

          Snap Understeer said:

          AKG Motorsport has the subframe mount reinforcements. I have a set waiting to go in. I got pretty annoyed with the solid mounts on another car, but it wasnt a smooth BMW 6 so that may help out substantially.

          What exactly bugged you? I know vibration annoys a lot of people, but the car wont be on the streets (that much lol) so it might not be a big deal ;)

          7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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          • StewCrewS
            StewCrewS
            StewCrew
            wrote on last edited by
            #24

            I cant wait for the next few days! ARP headstuds, new radiator core support, and e30 m3 wire harness covers are all on their way. I love parts weeks :D

            7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #25

              Launching the car was awesome

              Cold idle made the car feel like it was going to eventually shake all the interior loose, and it made the B-pillar resonate at over 4000rpm.

              If it was me, I would probably run a set of very stiff fail-safe polyurethane mounts (ones that will not fail catastrophically) along with the reinforcements and replace the mounts as needed. They are easy enough to change and are a better "weakest-link" than the subframe itself.

              That is just me though. I am not as hardcore.

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              • StewCrewS
                StewCrewS
                StewCrew
                wrote on last edited by
                #26

                Snap Understeer said:

                Launching the car was awesome

                Cold idle made the car feel like it was going to eventually shake all the interior loose, and it made the B-pillar resonate at over 4000rpm.

                If it was me, I would probably run a set of very stiff fail-safe polyurethane mounts (ones that will not fail catastrophically) along with the reinforcements and replace the mounts as needed. They are easy enough to change and are a better "weakest-link" than the subframe itself.

                That is just me though. I am not as hardcore.

                Actually poly mounts with reinforcements doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. Almost perfect actually. I don't want the inside of my car to resemble an earthquake, which is what I've been reading lol. Either way, can't seem to go wrong with the subframe reinforcements. And with brand new mounts I wouldn't think they'd have to be changed too often.

                7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                • B
                  B
                  B C
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #27

                  StewCrew said:

                  Actually poly mounts with reinforcements doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. Almost perfect actually. I don't want the inside of my car to resemble an earthquake, which is what I've been reading lol. Either way, can't seem to go wrong with the subframe reinforcements. And with brand new mounts I wouldn't think they'd have to be changed too often.

                  I run OEM rubber mounts for the engine + trans. I would say I probably gave the car a good 10-15 hard launches, 2 hrs of track time, and a handful of slidey corners this last summer and they are holding up fine. Clutch-kicks are another story. I don't do clutch-kicks but I think that is where OEM mounts would get really angry. If my OEM mounts last are able to last 2 or 3 summers between replacement then I will be satisfied. I do know that Bimmerworld sells a stiffer rubber mount that I may try next time.

                  I absolutely love the sig pic btw!

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                  • StewCrewS
                    StewCrewS
                    StewCrew
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #28

                    Snap Understeer said:

                    I run OEM rubber mounts for the engine + trans. I would say I probably gave the car a good 10-15 hard launches, 2 hrs of track time, and a handful of slidey corners this last summer and they are holding up fine. Clutch-kicks are another story. I don't do clutch-kicks but I think that is where OEM mounts would get really angry. If my OEM mounts last are able to last 2 or 3 summers between replacement then I will be satisfied. I do know that Bimmerworld sells a stiffer rubber mount that I may try next time.

                    I absolutely love the sig pic btw!

                    In that case I think I'm going to stay away from oem mounts then. Many clutch kicks and hard high revving shifts are in store. Last thing I need is for a mount to rip lol.

                    And thanks! It's actually going to be the "December" page for a British drift calendar... But that's a secret ;)

                    7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                    • R
                      R
                      Rowleym
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #29

                      ^same. Condor it is. You have a pm by the way :D

                      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                      sk8 or die

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                      • StewCrewS
                        StewCrewS
                        StewCrew
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #30

                        Rowleym said:

                        ^same. Condor it is. You have a pm by the way :D

                        Oops! I read it earlier but forgot about it lol. Replied!

                        7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                        • EarlE
                          EarlE
                          Earl
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #31

                          I'm getting all poly bushings for my rear subframe from a place over in Sweden (I think it was sweden). They're bushings are a phenomenal price and it seems a lot of guys around there love them.

                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                          • StewCrewS
                            StewCrewS
                            StewCrew
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #32

                            Earl said:

                            I'm getting all poly bushings for my rear subframe from a place over in Sweden (I think it was sweden). They're bushings are a phenomenal price and it seems a lot of guys around there love them.

                            Care to throw up a link, Earl?

                            7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #33

                              Sure thing.

                              http://silverproject.pl/index.php?currency=USD&language=en

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                              • StewCrewS
                                StewCrewS
                                StewCrew
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #34

                                Earl said:

                                Sure thing.

                                http://silverproject.pl/index.php?currency=USD&language=en

                                Woah, those are cheap. You werent kidding man.

                                Some more work tonight. Cleaned this guy up a bit. I wish I took "before" pictures, because it was literally black.

                                Posted Image

                                Posted Image

                                Posted Image

                                I might start scrubbing the block a little bit. Or I might just go home. Idunno lol

                                7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #35

                                  StewCrew said:

                                  Woah, those are cheap. You werent kidding man.

                                  Some more work tonight. Cleaned this guy up a bit. I wish I took "before" pictures, because it was literally black.

                                  Posted Image

                                  Something wrong with that?!?

                                  Do you have a parts washer? I need to get my diff cover cleaned up and dont feel like scrubbing for an hour. I may end up taking it to a coin-op carwash.

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                                  • StewCrewS
                                    StewCrewS
                                    StewCrew
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #36

                                    Snap Understeer said:

                                    Posted Image

                                    Something wrong with that?!?

                                    No disrespect Rev Sharpton, and imma let you finish, but I had one of the blackest oil pans of all time

                                    Posted Image

                                    Snap Understeer said:

                                    Do you have a parts washer? I need to get my diff cover cleaned up and dont feel like scrubbing for an hour. I may end up taking it to a coin-op carwash.

                                    We have a parts washer, a sandblast cabinet that isnt set up yet (:(), and my favorite.. wire wheel attachments. Which I did my oil pan with. Degreaser and wire wheel, which only took about an hour or so? The hardest part were the grooves. Youre welcome to bring that diff cover over any time. Except tomorrow. But any other time works.

                                    7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                                    • StewCrewS
                                      StewCrewS
                                      StewCrew
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #37

                                      It was bound to happen sooner or later... and it has happened now. I am stuck. How do I remove this pulley/balancer doo-dad?

                                      Posted Image

                                      Posted Image

                                      One of the major points of this tear down was to replace this timing cover seal because it leaks. This is the last thing to remove before I attempt to put it back together, and Im stuck. Haaaalp

                                      7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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                                      • need4speed1299N
                                        need4speed1299N
                                        need4speed1299
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #38

                                        Lock the crankshaft in place and use a breaker bar and cheater tube/lead pipe on the center nut.

                                        sig3zps7bd08024.png

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                                        • EarlE
                                          EarlE
                                          Earl
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #39

                                          And its on there really good:P

                                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                                          0

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