E30 M50 tear down kinda thing
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StewCrew said:
Actually poly mounts with reinforcements doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. Almost perfect actually. I don't want the inside of my car to resemble an earthquake, which is what I've been reading lol. Either way, can't seem to go wrong with the subframe reinforcements. And with brand new mounts I wouldn't think they'd have to be changed too often.
I run OEM rubber mounts for the engine + trans. I would say I probably gave the car a good 10-15 hard launches, 2 hrs of track time, and a handful of slidey corners this last summer and they are holding up fine. Clutch-kicks are another story. I don't do clutch-kicks but I think that is where OEM mounts would get really angry. If my OEM mounts last are able to last 2 or 3 summers between replacement then I will be satisfied. I do know that Bimmerworld sells a stiffer rubber mount that I may try next time.
I absolutely love the sig pic btw!
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Snap Understeer said:
I run OEM rubber mounts for the engine + trans. I would say I probably gave the car a good 10-15 hard launches, 2 hrs of track time, and a handful of slidey corners this last summer and they are holding up fine. Clutch-kicks are another story. I don't do clutch-kicks but I think that is where OEM mounts would get really angry. If my OEM mounts last are able to last 2 or 3 summers between replacement then I will be satisfied. I do know that Bimmerworld sells a stiffer rubber mount that I may try next time.
I absolutely love the sig pic btw!
In that case I think I'm going to stay away from oem mounts then. Many clutch kicks and hard high revving shifts are in store. Last thing I need is for a mount to rip lol.
And thanks! It's actually going to be the "December" page for a British drift calendar... But that's a secret
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Earl said:
Sure thing.
Woah, those are cheap. You werent kidding man.
Some more work tonight. Cleaned this guy up a bit. I wish I took "before" pictures, because it was literally black.
I might start scrubbing the block a little bit. Or I might just go home. Idunno lol
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StewCrew said:
Woah, those are cheap. You werent kidding man.
Some more work tonight. Cleaned this guy up a bit. I wish I took "before" pictures, because it was literally black.
Something wrong with that?!?
Do you have a parts washer? I need to get my diff cover cleaned up and dont feel like scrubbing for an hour. I may end up taking it to a coin-op carwash.
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Snap Understeer said:
Something wrong with that?!?
No disrespect Rev Sharpton, and imma let you finish, but I had one of the blackest oil pans of all time
Snap Understeer said:
Do you have a parts washer? I need to get my diff cover cleaned up and dont feel like scrubbing for an hour. I may end up taking it to a coin-op carwash.
We have a parts washer, a sandblast cabinet that isnt set up yet (
), and my favorite.. wire wheel attachments. Which I did my oil pan with. Degreaser and wire wheel, which only took about an hour or so? The hardest part were the grooves. Youre welcome to bring that diff cover over any time. Except tomorrow. But any other time works. -
It was bound to happen sooner or later... and it has happened now. I am stuck. How do I remove this pulley/balancer doo-dad?
One of the major points of this tear down was to replace this timing cover seal because it leaks. This is the last thing to remove before I attempt to put it back together, and Im stuck. Haaaalp
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Lock the crankshaft in place and use a breaker bar and cheater tube/lead pipe on the center nut.
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On my E30 I put the car in gear, applied the park brake and used a breaker bar with a cheater bar. On my Camry I let the breaker bar wedge against the ground and used the starter motor to spin it off. Obviously these options dont apply for you in this case but be creative. I personally would probably get a steel angle (decent size, maybe 1" by 1" with some good wall thickness and about 3ft length. and drill 2 holes in it to where you could put the flywheel bolts back through it and secure it to the tail end of the crankshaft. Then have a friend hold that as you remove the nut on the other side.
I would avoid wedging anything internally such as a block of wood between the crank and block since the wall of the block could break-out, and I would refrain from holding the crank still by anything that is applying force to the pistons or connecting rods (such as inserting a wood block in the cylinder, resting the block upside down on the floor and having an obese friend sit on the block). Torsional reaction loading on the crankshaft is the safest bet.
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Snap Understeer said:
On my E30 I put the car in gear, applied the park brake and used a breaker bar with a cheater bar. On my Camry I let the breaker bar wedge against the ground and used the starter motor to spin it off. Obviously these options dont apply for you in this case but be creative. I personally would probably get a steel angle (decent size, maybe 1" by 1" with some good wall thickness and about 3ft length. and drill 2 holes in it to where you could put the flywheel bolts back through it and secure it to the tail end of the crankshaft. Then have a friend hold that as you remove the nut on the other side.
I would avoid wedging anything internally such as a block of wood between the crank and block since the wall of the block could break-out, and I would refrain from holding the crank still by anything that is applying force to the pistons or connecting rods (such as inserting a wood block in the cylinder, resting the block upside down on the floor and having an obese friend sit on the block). Torsional reaction loading on the crankshaft is the safest bet.
Every single post I have read says to "put the flywheel locking pin in at TDC to hold the crank in place" and I'm like -_____- I think Im going to go with the angle steel route because I think I have a bunch laying around somewhere. Not sure why. But if it works, it works. Does the crank need to stay at TDC while this comes off or is it fine if it spins a little bit? The last thing I need is to mess something up on this part of the motor.
And need4speed and Earl, thanks for you inputs!
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StewCrew said:
need4speed and Earl, thanks for you inputs!
You're welcome=) If you want full adjustable rear trailing arms, I know of a man who could make a set for $450 (with yours as cores). He is a fabricator who happens to have a Ti that he has been building=)
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Earl said:
You're welcome=) If you want full adjustable rear trailing arms, I know of a man who could make a set for $450 (with yours as cores). He is a fabricator who happens to have a Ti that he has been building=)
Ill have to keep this in mind! But for now Im putting my spare cash towards the m50 to try and finish it up as quick as I can. It has been about 4 days, and I already miss driving it
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StewCrew said:
Every single post I have read says to "put the flywheel locking pin in at TDC to hold the crank in place" and I'm like -_____- I think Im going to go with the angle steel route because I think I have a bunch laying around somewhere. Not sure why. But if it works, it works. Does the crank need to stay at TDC while this comes off or is it fine if it spins a little bit? The last thing I need is to mess something up on this part of the motor.
And need4speed and Earl, thanks for you inputs!
It sounds like there is a spot in the block for a pin to be inserted and lock the whole thing at TDC? Thats a neat feature that I haven't heard of before. My guess is that the pin is inserted and crank is held at TDC for timing chain/cylinder head jobs where they want to leave everything timed @TDC so that there is less work/potential for screw-ups upon reinstallation. Re-timing the engine when the cam and crank are off by less than 5 degrees is easy. When they are off by more than that, you may cause a valve-piston collision trying to rotate things back to TDC
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Snap Understeer said:
It sounds like there is a spot in the block for a pin to be inserted and lock the whole thing at TDC? Thats a neat feature that I haven't heard of before. My guess is that the pin is inserted and crank is held at TDC for timing chain/cylinder head jobs where they want to leave everything timed @TDC so that there is less work/potential for screw-ups upon reinstallation. Re-timing the engine when the cam and crank are off by less than 5 degrees is easy. When they are off by more than that, you may cause a valve-piston collision trying to rotate things back to TDC
Well, theres a hole to put a "flywheel lock pin" through; which when the motor is at TDC it slides in place between two of the teeth holding the motor from rotating any more. My real concern is with the head. Im going to take it to Automotive Engine Rebuilders (because its literally 10 seconds away from my shop) and have them disassemble the head, clean it, lap the valves, check for cracks, ect. When they reassemble the head, do they put the cams back in already set up in TDC where the valves wont hit or is that my job to do that? I have no experience with head work so Im not sure what to expect, nor do I know how to reset the cams.
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They wont align the cams with their respective timing marks simply because the cams will rotate to wherever they want to be due to the valve spring tension (without the timing chain to keep them held in position). So its on you to remember to line everything up to TDC upon assembly, check it, rotate the engine 360 degrees, check it again, rotate the engine by hand a few more rotations, then check it yet again.
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